As far as the Google article...I got tired just READING IT..!

"The problem you are refering to is very common, especially when the
driver has a little extra added weight and grabs the wheel to get into
the vehicle.
With you tightening two bolts, it will be loose again very shortly.
Here is what you need to do so that it is fixed for good.
Remove steering wheel. Remove lock plate. Remove turn signal screws,
pivot and 4 way flasher button. Remove 3 #50 torx screws and loosen
upper lock housing cover.
Remove lower duct from dash--(not fun) by removing 7mm (9/32 head screw.
Wiggle the vent around until it comes out. There is a clip that attaches
to the lower shift bowl that controls the position of the shift
indicator. Don't forget to slide this off or you will brak the cable!
Remove the 15 mm nuts that attach the steering column bracket to the
dash. Remove the wiper delay module from brackey. Remove the 4 13mm head
scews attaching the bracket to the column. Remove plastic sleeve holding
wires to column. You may not have to disconnect any wire connectors if
you have clearance. If you need to disconnect t/s switch, note how it is
attached into its holder on the steering column. Now, back at the top of
the steering column. Lift the key buzzer out. The retainer will probably
stay in place until you remove the cover. Watch for it when you remove
the cover. Its black, made of spring steel and is folded in half. Next,
use a # 20 torx driver to remove the ignition lock cylinder retainer
screw. Remove cylinder. Take both hands and pull cover far enough so
that it can hang free and out of your way. You will find a spring with a
silver head w/ a square hole. Make sure the column is in the full up
position. Just take the tilt lever and pull towards you and the tilt
will go into the full up position. Take a #2 phillips and insert into
the square hole, push down and turn counter clockwise. Remove the cap
and the spring.
Take the little plastic lever that will have grease on it from the tilt
area and set it to the side for now. This lever controls the bright
lights and is known as a high beam actuator. Next--remove the spring
from the upper shaft. Remove the bearing retainer by inserting an awl
into one of the holes on the retainer. If you don't get this off at this
time, no big deal. Then you need a couple of 10x24 threaded hardened
screws. You will need to take a dykes or wire cutters with something the
can be pivoted on such as a wrench (or a Snap-on pivot tool remover) and
thread into the pivot screws. You need to pull these pivot pins out!
Once the pivot pins are removed Tilt the bearing housing upward and with
both hands a lttle to the left. Br careful because the ignition lock
rack (toothed) with a loop around the ignition lock cylinder actuator
rod. Let the housing hang loose. You are now looking at 4 inverted torx
headeed bolts. You have two options here. You can either tignten or
remove one at a time and put lock tight on the threads. I always just
tightened them and never had one come back. To tighten these I use a
1/4" nut driver that has a nut end towards the handle. I would tighten
with aq wrench until the nut driver would slip off the head of the
screw. Once tightened I would check all 4 bolts again. Now to put back
together: Grab the housing and look at the left side. You will see a
spring that one end inserts into the geared sector. Turn this sector far
enough that you can get the big toothe in the rack to line up with the
big notch in the sector. Once you have the rack installed with the
sector you may have to make sure that spring is still in the groove of
the sector. If not, grab with needle nose, pull and move it until you
het it into the groove. On the left side of the steering column is a
groove that the ignition actuator lever slides in. Gently pull the
actuator until it is in the RUN position in which the dash lights come
on and the heater blower works. You will also see a rod that fits next
to the actuator rod. It will be bent to the left. Now, with the rack
attached get the bent rod to fir through the left side of the housing.
You will be attaching the bearing housing just opposite as to how you
removed it. Make sure the loop of the rack fits around the endo of the
ignition actuator rod. Wiggle from the left to the full tilt position
while pulling on the tilt lever. You will see at the top where the rack
tilt shoes need to meet to put the housing on. Once the housing is
tilted downward and upward, you will see that it is lined up. Hopefully,
no ball bearings dropped out. There are two cages-one upper, one lower.
If the have fallen out you will need to take the housing back off and
reinsert with vasoline. Once the housing is on pull the tilt lever to
rock the bearing housing in place so that you can insert the tilt pins.
Push the tilt pins in by hand. Insert the upper bearing race, retainer
and spring on the upper shadt. Keep tention on the spring with your
hand. Take a hammer and hit the pins in so they are flush. Before doing
this however either take the lock cylinder or a needle nose on the
ignition lock shaft on the right of the steering column and make sure
the engine starts and that the steering wheel locking pin comes
forwards. Turn to the LOCK position. To the left you willsee the bent
rod protruding throug the left side of the bearing housing. The otherv
end fits into the hole in the high beam actuator down the left side of
the column. Once attached, you can push and hear a click. Insert the
tilt spring in the full up position depress cap and rotate clockwise.
You will have a cap that has a groobe on the left side by the tilt
lever. You will need to find the high beam actuator and put vasoline on
the groove. Slide the actuator up on the cap with the curved end facing
downward.
Hold the cap in place on the housing. If you hold the cover, you should
be able to push on the actuator and hear a click. Now, while holding
that tilt cover on install the upper housing cover, lining up the tilt
cap and the steering wheel locking pin. Take an awl and align acuator in
housing. You will then find the cover fits perfectly. Find your key
buzzer retainer spring and set it to the side. Pull the column wiring
through to make sure there is no binding. Install the three # 50 torx
bolts and tighten. Install ignition lock cylinder (now would be the time
to change if worn out in which key comes out in any position. Install #
20 retainer bolt after rotating ignition lock to fit in housing. Put
ignition lock in off position. Take a little dab of vasoline and put it
on the end of the awl. Insert into key buzzer hole. Push up on little
clip on lock cyl. Take retainer spring and key buzzer with open end
down, squeeze and insert into hole. Instal turn signal switch and pivot.
The pivot ball fits into a groove. Once lined up, set it in place. A
large head phillips holds in place. Install 4 way. Install lock plate
and cancel cam. Make sure both return springs on T/S are good. The lock
plate is broacked and only fits one way with the upper shaft. Install
lock plate tool and crank down wiggling the tool. You are trying to get
the bearing to seat. Do not force! If the plate will not go down far
enough to expose the groove in the shaft the bearing is not seated. Grab
the lock plate tool and move back and forth. You will hear a snap and
the bearing is now seated. Install snap ring. Once tou have bolted the
steering column to the dash, hold the brake and put the trans in
nuetral. Take the shift indicator cable and clip on in the center of
nuetral. That will line the indicator up. Then it's just a matter of..."

 He says it sounds complicated but should only take an hour with no
experience.  Assuming you have good tools and etc.
 I have a vehicle needing the same thing but robbed another column from
a donor car I happen to have.
 I still say you're way overcooking this problem:  Ask the local
u-pull-it how much $$ for another column--there would have to be a
zillion of them there, it would even match color and everything, and
you're done.