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Car Forum / GMC Cars / August 2006

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Inner Tie Rod Ends - How easy to replace

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Peter - 23 Aug 2006 14:34 GMT
1990 Olds Silhouette APV

Brought it in to have alignment checked...the mechanic said
to replace the inner Tie Rod end one side only.  He will do it for
about $370.00

Labor         115.00
Parts        120.00   (one inner tie rod end)
Alignment     103.00
Shop Supplies      26.00
Tax

Should the inner tie rod ends be replaced on both sides at the
same time as a proactive measure ??  Would I expect any
break on the price ??

Would it be worthwhile to DIY.... I've replaced  outter
tie rod ends before  but never the inner ones.

How does one test to see if the tie rod end is defective ???  Is
there lateral play on the wheel assembly or do we move the
tie rod itself ???

Your thoughts are appreciated !!!

Thanks !!!

Peter
Peter - 23 Aug 2006 21:15 GMT
>1990 Olds Silhouette APV
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
>Peter

An update....  At a point where I'm stuck...  Outer Tie Rod End
and Boot are off...no problem.       I can't figure out how to get
two wrenchs onto the flat parts of the shaft  and inner tie rod end.

There are two small flats on each side of both shafts but they are
positioned so that a normal wrench doesn't fit. Both flats are
right next two each other.  There is only about 1/2 inch of space for
two wrenches to fit.   I was trying to grab the inner tie rod with a pipe
wrench but the shock dampener ring is in the way and doesn't want
to move either forward or backward.

So I can't get a wrench in place due to the position of the flats (no space to
turn the wrench,  plus 24 mm is a pretty fair size wrench.    I moved the
steering to try to maximize clearance, but not much luck there.    The parts
shop guy said it takes about two hours,  (not the same model car)
so perhaps there's a technique or a special tool that I'm missing.

I would like to conquer this beast myself instead of putting it back together
and bringing it to a mechanic to fix.....  can anyone help ???

Thanks !!!

Peter
KjunRaven - 24 Aug 2006 00:34 GMT
>>1990 Olds Silhouette APV
>>
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
>
> Peter

i sure hope you made sure you NEEDED an inner tie rod in the first
place!......anyone selling a toe end adj. for 103 bucks aint to be
trusted................
Peter - 24 Aug 2006 01:04 GMT
>>>1990 Olds Silhouette APV
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 54 lines]
>place!......anyone selling a toe end adj. for 103 bucks aint to be
>trusted................

I'm flying blind on this one.... a DIY'r who enjoys working on cars but isn't
smart enough to do it for a living.    With the axle loaded,  I grab hold
of the inner tie rod end moving it  in and out pretty freely.   The outer Tie
Rod end is pretty steady.   Mechanic only dinged one inner tie rod end so
I tested the other side for comparision.... solid as a rock.

The factory service manual shows the use of a crowfoot wrench to
remove the tie rod end.   As mentioned there isn't a lot of clearance
to get a wrench in place,  nor is there a lot of space for two wrench
to fit side by side.    Is it possible a crowfoot will be able to break this
loose as the spec's say  70 foot pounds of torque???  I can go ahead
a order a set if necessary.

What do you think ???

Peter
shiden_kai - 24 Aug 2006 02:20 GMT
> of the inner tie rod end moving it  in and out pretty freely.   The
> outer Tie Rod end is pretty steady.   Mechanic only dinged one inner
> tie rod end so
> I tested the other side for comparision.... solid as a rock.

I think the fact that he only called one side should tell you
all you need to know about his integrity.

> The factory service manual shows the use of a crowfoot wrench to
> remove the tie rod end.   As mentioned there isn't a lot of clearance
> to get a wrench in place,  nor is there a lot of space for two wrench
> to fit side by side.    Is it possible a crowfoot will be able to
> break this loose as the spec's say  70 foot pounds of torque???  I

Here is the tool that you need: short of taking the rack right out, this
is the only tool that will work.

http://www.autobarn.net/lis45750.html

Ian
Peter - 24 Aug 2006 14:44 GMT
>> of the inner tie rod end moving it  in and out pretty freely.   The
>> outer Tie Rod end is pretty steady.   Mechanic only dinged one inner
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
>Ian

Thanks Ian !!   That looks perfect for the application ....  I couldn't find  anything
using Google.   I went ahead and ordered it (plus some other tools for the tool box),    

This is kinda important to me because I've never been able to successfuly replace
the inner tie rod ends before.   always paid to have it done.   (lack of proper tools,
lack of knowledge).    Getting past this project  would be a confidence builder.

Thanks again for your help !!!

Peter
shiden_kai - 24 Aug 2006 02:23 GMT
> i sure hope you made sure you NEEDED an inner tie rod in the first
> place!......anyone selling a toe end adj. for 103 bucks aint to be
> trusted................

Now why would you say this?  We certainly don't sell only "toe adjusts"
in our shop.  It's either a 2 wheel alignment, or a 4 wheel alignment.  If
all it ends up needing is a toe adjust (which is the vast majority of fwd
gm vehicles) what's the big deal?  That's all most vehicles need.

Ian
KjunRaven - 25 Aug 2006 01:00 GMT
>> i sure hope you made sure you NEEDED an inner tie rod in the first
>> place!......anyone selling a toe end adj. for 103 bucks aint to be
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Ian

i guess i just deal with a better shop.....if i replace a tie rod, inner or
outer, i dont need a camber check or adj, i dont need a caster check or
adj, i simply need a toe in adj.....28 bucks, even if i already have it
dead on with a tape measure.........IF i replace struts, control arms, ball
joints, etc. i simply need a 2 wheel alignment....59 bucks.............IF i
replace rear struts, control arms, knuckles, etc. i simply need a 4 wheel
alignment........79 bucks.........simply put, you make me glad i have a
good independant shop that isnt trying to gouge every little job to its
full potential payoff! ive only been dealing with this particular shop for
25 years so maybe their just setting me up for the big ripoff (like 103
bucks to point my tires straight....hmmmm, could be.)
edmundsjwang - 29 Aug 2006 04:12 GMT
> Peterwrote
1990 Olds Silhouette AP

> Brought it in to have alignment checked...the mechanic sai
> to replace the inner Tie Rod end one side only.  He will do it fo
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Pete

Does replacing out tie rod end easy?  I have a 2001 Toyota Camry th
mechanic says needs replacing.  Is it dangerous to drive with it?

Thanks in advance for your reply

Jame
Mike Marlow - 30 Aug 2006 11:09 GMT
> Does replacing out tie rod end easy?  I have a 2001 Toyota Camry the
> mechanic says needs replacing.  Is it dangerous to drive with it?
>
> Thanks in advance for your reply.
>
> James

You should ask questions about Toyotas in a Toyota newsgroup - this is a GM
newsgroup.  Having said that, outer tie rod ends are usually quite easy to
replace.  Put some tape behind the jam nut to maintain its location and
remove the tie rod end from the socket in the steering knuckle.  Then
unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod, careful not to loose the
adjustment too much, of the jam nut.  Screw on a new tie rod end, reassemble
to the steering knuckle, lube as necessary and head off for a front end
alignment.  It should take less than 30 minutes to replace the tie rod end
if you have any tools at all - nothing really special required.

Is it dangerous?  Depends on how worn it is.  It certainly can get expensive
as it causes pre-mature tire wear.  If it's worn enough you risk
catastrophic failure - breakage.  Alarming things happen to your steering
when a tie rod end goes.  Think - no steering.

I'd suggest you take your car back to your mechanic and let him replace the
tie rod end for you.

Signature

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net

 
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