Actually, there has been a lot of discussion on this very thing over the
past couple of weeks.  DAGS and you will find quite a bit.  Most if not all
of your questions will probably be answered.

Here are some things I've learned from a recent experience in attempting
to replace the inner tie rod ends in a 1990 Olds Silhouette mini van  without success.  

Caveat-  I'm not a mechanic...(nor do I play one on tv).... never even replaced an
inner tie rod end in my life... so the following information is what I've found out
while attempting unsuccessfully to replace them on a mini-van.   fwiw

The job normally only takes about an hour to do.... when you're an experienced mechanic.

Get as much info as you can...  chilton's did NOT show the procedure,  but the
factory service manual did.

1-   Jack and support vehicle SECURELY .... chock wheels, keep xmission in park, set
emergency brake,  use vehicle jacks....... you will be spending some time underneath.

2-  Remove Wheel.   Suggest loosening lugs before lifting vehicle.

3-  Outer Tie Rod ends are pretty easy to remove....purchase a ball joint / tie rod ends
   removing tool  ie.  otc7315A  from  www.sjdiscounttools.com   they may also have it at
  www. autobarn.com.    Or you can use a pickle fork (tie rod end removal fork)
whichever you   have.   Back off the jam nut,  pop outter end from knuckle and unscrew.
Important....  count number of turns,  because you will want to put the new one back in
approximately   the same condition.   Remove Jam nut from inner tie rod end.

***  you might be able to rent these tools from your local autozone  or advance auto parts
store or equivilent

4-   Removing  Inner Tie Rod end boot.    There are two clips,  the outter side might be a
spring clip, easy to pop off.   The inner clip is usually a metal strap.   This takes a
lot of patience to grab with a diag cutter or side cutter,  but it can be done.   Two tips
here

Tip #1     You can  (gently) cut away the boot  as you should replace it with a new one
use a razor or scissor but be carefull NOT to scractch the rack piston underneath.

Tip #2  Turn the steering in the direction of the side you are working on.
This allows  more clearance to access the clamps.  Some cars have a
vent tube that connects between the boots on both sides.  Feel around the boot
with your hand...if you feel a nipple with a tube coming out of it...you have the
vent tube.  OR if you have already purchased a new boot,  examine the boot for a nipple
which will accomodate a 1/4 inch tube.

5-  Okay,  you finally have the clamp off...  you should see two flats...one on the inner
tie rod end,  the other on the rack and pinion shaft.    In some cars you can use a
wrench to grab each flat  and loosen.   On other cars the flats are inaccessible and you
need a Lisle tool 45750  5 in 1  Inner Tie Rod Tool....  a lot tube fitting over the inner
tie rod with a crows foot wrench on the end.    Holding the rack shaft with one wrench
you can unscrew the inner tie rod end with the other.

6- Replacement is simple..parts are readily available at your auto parts house,  inner tie
rod ends, boots,  outter tie rod ends.      Thread inner tie rod end into rack and pinion
shaft....  tighten to proper torque  (torque wrench needed)..   Mine was 70 ft lbs. (for
comparision purposes.)  Remember to keep wrench on the r&p shaft.   Replace
boot,  use cable ties (supplied with boot) to wrap in place).  Install new Jam Nut.  
Install outter tie rod ends... thread them in to the number of turns that the original
ones came off.   Install outter to knuckle.   If using NEW outter tie rod ends,  grease
them before installing and remember to install grease boots.   Tighten to proper torque
and remember to install cotter pin.    Replace wheel.... Lower vehicle

7-  Get wheels aligned....

Things to watch out for.... if you remove the boot and see a whole bunch of
powering steering fluid...your rack and pinion is leaking and needs to be
rebuilt or replaced.

Try not to scratch the R&P shaft.

Good luck !!

MY story....

1990  Olds Silhouette (mini van)  with 118 K miles.   The passenger
inner tie rod end had a lot of play... you could grab it and move it
in and out.

Everything came apart easy...but the flats on the inner tie rod end
were 23 mm  and totally inaccessible.   The Lisle 5 in 1 tool was not the
proper size... and I couldn't turn them with a crowsfoot.   So I put everything
back together and took it into the shop to have it done.  

Mechanic had the inner tie rod end off in  less than 45 minutes.  How the hell
did he do that ???

The  next decision....  car is in shop,  one side is done...why
not bite the bullet and have the other side done at the same time...  he
went ahead and pulled the boot off the drivers side and an accumulation of
power steering fluid came out.     He wound up replacing the rack and pinion
with a "short rack"  which included  both inner tie rod ends.

Total charges were 850.00.     But what the heck... I couldn't replace the
inner tie rod ends  and wasn't about to try a rack on pinion which laying on
my back in a driveway.  This is not a job for the faint of heart.

End of story....

If any of you mechanics have gotten this far and see any problem with
anything that has been written  OR   know how I could have removed
the inner tie rod end  (the mechanic knew how,  he did it in 45 minutes)
please let me know.      

Also,  is it possible or even smart to replace a rack and pinion with the
limited space of a car up on jackstands ???

hth

Peter

Special thanks to Ian  who suggested the tools listed above and also
suggested removing the steering rack.