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Car Forum / Honda Cars / September 2004Timing belt - how difficult?
I need to change the timing belt on my 99 Accord EX 4 cyl (80,000 miles). I am pretty decent at working on cars, I can do brake work (disks and drums) I always change my own oil, I have attempted a timing belt replacement on an 84 Toyota pickup before with little success (I did not keep adequate track of bolt locations.) I have replaced the clutch on a 95 Tacoma 4x4. Is this engine difficult to service? I mean I can save 200 or more dollars if I can do it myself. I assume I will need to extract the engine, or can it be done with the engine in place. What about water pumps, etc? I mean, should I just cough up the extra cash and hire a shop to do it (part of the problem is I dont trust shops). TIA all! On 8/30/04 10:40 AM, in article cgvhji$2i$1@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu, "Jason" <none@none.com> wrote: > I need to change the timing belt on my 99 Accord EX 4 cyl (80,000 miles). > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > TIA all! The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Your belt is not due for at least another 10,000 miles if not more (check your owner's manual service schedule - they switched from 90,000 to 105,000 mile change interval around '99 or 2000). Plenty of time to research whether you want to attempt it yourself or just pay somebody. Two suggestions: 1) Wedging a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel does work, but requires patience. 2) Do NOT use something to grab the pully belts to hold the crank pully still that way. Instead of an air wrench I used a 2 foot long breaker bar, situated it so that I could push against it with my foot while sitting on the ground and grabbing the car frame, and thankfully the bolt came loose. You will feel better about this project if you have an alternate form of Xportation as a backup so that you don't HAVE to get it all done in one weekend. If you need to replace an extra seal or you mess up a little part, it is nice to wait and be able to order the new part. I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com!  SignatureKWW > On 8/30/04 10:40 AM, in article cgvhji$2i$1@geraldo.cc.utexas.edu, "Jason" > <none@none.com> wrote: [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > mile change interval around '99 or 2000). Plenty of time to research > whether you want to attempt it yourself or just pay somebody. I'm surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar. I used a 4 foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket. The bar twisted a full 90 degrees before the bolt broke loose. If you aren't going the impact wrench route, the tool to immobilize the crank is about $50. You can get it at http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT406_pg4.htm On 8/31/04 4:42 AM, in article rKXYc.91063$Fg5.68562@attbi_s53, "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote: > Two suggestions: > 1) Wedging a screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel does work, but [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com! Thanks for the help guys! For some reason I was under the impression I should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due! Anyhow, by doing the job myself, I could save enough money to BUY a compressor and impact wrench... I just dont want to screw the car up hehe. If the Crank bolt is the most difficult part, then I am not too worried about it. But seeing as I plan on selling it soon anyhow, maybe I should just deduct 300-400 from the asking price and let the buyer deal with it as they wish. > I'm surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar. I used a 4 > foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket. The [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >> >>I saved a bundle using www.cheapesthondaparts.com! ||Thanks for the help guys! For some reason I was under the impression I ||should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due! Anyhow, by ||doing the job myself, I could save enough money to BUY a compressor and ||impact wrench... This is the primary reason to take on an job yourself: Acquire more tools at essentially no cost, and no guilt. Your wife will sign off on major tool purchases under these conditions. Texas Parts Guy DARN!!!! I missed out! I could have had some REAL tools out of that repair!?! @#%$&*@! SignatureKWW > ||Thanks for the help guys! For some reason I was under the impression I > ||should have changed it at 60k miles and I was way over due! Anyhow, by [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > purchases under these conditions. > Texas Parts Guy ||I'm surprised you could get it loose with only a 2 foot bar. I used a 4 ||foot piece of gas pipe on a hardened breaker bar with an impact socket. The ||bar twisted a full 90 degrees before the bolt broke loose. Me too. Pretty scary! I put the car in gear and chocked the wheels. Does not work on auto trans vehciles. Texas Parts Guy >The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed >to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). >Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? Would a 250ft/lbs model work? ----------- Alex On 9/1/04 1:46 PM, in article ch55eh$9b2$6@newsmaster.cc.columbia.edu, "Alex Rodriguez" <adr5@columbia.edu> wrote: >> The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed >> to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > ----------- > Alex 250 ft/lbs - probably not enough. The nut is torqued to 180 ft/lbs when installed. It takes somewhere around twice that or more to break it loose. ||In article <BD5903CD.9826E%e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org>, e52.meyer0SPAM@ieee.org ||says... [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] ||Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? ||Would a 250ft/lbs model work? If it will generate an honest 250 ft/lbs, yes. I have 3 1/2" impacts, all rated at 250 ft/lbs Rodac - nearly new Generic - as new Chicago Pneumatic - Old and obviously led a hard life. The CP will out-toque them all. But it wouldn't break that crank bolt loose. I had to use a 18" breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater bar. Even then that handle bent like a piece of rubber before it broke loose. When it came loose, it felt like it had broken off, but it was fine. One of the newere super-torque wrenches that advertise 600 ft/lbs should do it fine. Next time I'll invest. Texas Parts Guy 450ft/lbs wasnt enough in my case, that was with a 15ft airhose and 150 psi at the gun. some have luck with much less, most do not > >The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed > >to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > ----------- > Alex >>The problem you will have on an Accord 4 will the the amount of force needed >>to break loose the crank bolt (think several hundreds of foot-pounds). >>Ideally find somebody with a serious air wrench to break it loose for you. > >Anyone have first hand experience on how big an impact wrench is needed? >Would a 250ft/lbs model work? No. The really light duty stuff will struggle. An IR-231 or similar will work fine though. __________________ Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'. N37.3 W122.0 |
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