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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 200595 Integra....Car has difficulty starting
Hello, I have a 95 Integra with 89k miles which has a problem starting up and would like to know if it's something other than water in my gas. This usually occurs initially when the car has been sitting for about 3hrs or more. When I try to start it, all of the dash lights come on, the car turns and the engine begins to start, but then stops. When it does this all of the lights go out on the dash, but if I start the engine again without resetting the key, the lights come on and the problem happens again. If I do this about 5 times and press the peddle a bit, the car eventually starts. While it starts I get a few stutters from the engine initially for about 10 seconds and then there is no problem for the rest of the drive. I was thinking that this was nothing more than bad gas and have purchased a bottle of STP that prevents gas freeze, but have not fully emptied the tank yet. The battery was purchased from Acura about 2 years ago but we only had one day of 50+ degree weather this past week (which this problem didn't happen) so I'm waiting for another warm day to see if this doesn't happen to see if the problem lies with the battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nick > I have a 95 Integra with 89k miles which has a problem >starting up and would like to know if it's something other than water [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >the engine again without resetting the key, the lights come on and the >problem happens again. I'd be suspecting your ignition switch at this point. > If I do this about 5 times and press the peddle >a bit, the car eventually starts. While it starts I get a few stutters >from the engine initially for about 10 seconds and then there is no >problem for the rest of the drive. I was thinking that this was >nothing more than bad gas Bad gas isn't going to make your warning lights go out. > The battery was purchased from Acura about 2 years ago but we >only had one day of 50+ degree weather this past week (which this >problem didn't happen) so I'm waiting for another warm day to see if >this doesn't happen to see if the problem lies with the battery. You might loosten and retighten your battery connections and check the ground at the end of the negative cable. > I have a 95 Integra with 89k miles which has a problem > starting up and would like to know if it's something other than water [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > this doesn't happen to see if the problem lies with the battery. > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hi Nick When you start the car and it stops and all the lights go off, does it sound like the starter is bearing down (ie working hard, eventually stopping but not starting the car)? I wonder if the starter is just too large of an electric load. Your battery or something power related could be the cause. It could be a bad major ground or power connection from the battery. Perhaps clean all your connections (battery terminals and terminals to the starter). It could also be because the starter is bad or is on its way out. Perhaps put a voltmeter across the battery to see if it drops below 10V when you start the car. If it does, your battery is a likely suspect. Hope you find it soon. Remco Now that I read your your post again, I might have misunderstood it: When the car stops, are you still trying to crank it with the starter? Or has it just started, you've released the key and now the car stalls? When you say that the dash lights go out, you mean they go out as they normally would when the car is running? If the car is cranking normally, I was wrong suggesting the starter or related issues so forget what I said in that case. John's suggestion is very valid. A convenient way to check the running/start position is to put a multimeter on any fuse that is powered while the car is running. The window wiper or cruise control, both under the dash, are good examples of fuses to use for this purpose. Note I am not suggesting that these fuses are blown: just that they should have 12V when the car is running/starting. If your car stops and the voltage disappears on these fuses, it means that the ignition switch or connecting wires might be your problem. If the voltage is still present and the car stops running, perhaps troubleshoot the ignition or fuel supply (possible main relay). Just making sure -- wouldn't want to steer you in a wrong direction. Regards, Remco Thanks for everyone's help on this...When I'm starting the engine, it seems like the engine is starting normally up to about 1000 RPMs and then the engine stops. When I do get the engine running I have my foot pressed on the accelerator a little bit. All of the lights including the clock go out when this occurs including Parking light on the dash that tells you what gear you have the car in. I'm going to take a look at the battery connections first and make sure everything is clean and the ground is set correctly (may have come semi-loose). If that not it, it may be the ignition switch possibly? I'll look into that as well. Tomorrow I will have a look and get back to everyone. Thanks again for your troubleshooting on this problem. Nick >Now that I read your your post again, I might have misunderstood it: > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >Regards, >Remco > it, it may be the ignition switch possibly? highly likely, from your description. theres supposedly a method someones used to play with the key- start it, then gently release the key, yet hold it in a certain position to keep the car running. if that trick works, its definately your switch. >I'm going to take a look >at the battery connections first and make sure everything is clean and >the ground is set correctly (may have come semi-loose). If you're going to take the battery terminals off, make sure you have the radio code handy. Here is an update to my problem. Since the problem started I've cleaned out the battery terminals and made sure that the ground wire was mounted to the chassis (which it was). When I went into the car I tapped a few times the ignition switch (not that I think that has done anything) but the problem has gone away (even with some 30 degree temp days). I've also gone through 2 tanks of gas so I'm not sure what caused the problem. I'll continue to monitor the situation to see if it comes back again and then go out an purchase a new ignition switch. I'm also going to put an order in for new spark plug wires as my car is idling roughly even after I have adjusted it as per the helm manual, and because they are the original ones (10 years). Thanks for everyone's help on this one. Nick >Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >Thanks, >Nick > I'll continue to monitor the situation to see if it comes back again > and then go out an purchase a new ignition switch. I'm also going to > put an order in for new spark plug wires as my car is idling roughly > even after I have adjusted it as per the helm manual, and because they > are the original ones (10 years). id spring for an OEM honda cap and rotor as well. might as well go all the way! > Here is an update to my problem. > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Nick ---------------------- Nick, Regarding the bad idle, If you have the same (basic) DOHC engine as the '97 CRV, have you adjusted your valves very regularly, (30,000 mi)? A Google search might turn up some info. 'Curly' Hi Curly, Yes I have about ~ 5k miles ago. I followed the instructions as per the Hayes manual. I would think to replace them after 10 years of use as they may not be performing as well as new ones. Am I incorrect in saying this? Thanks, Nick >> Here is an update to my problem. >> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > >'Curly' >>>Here is an update to my problem. >>> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Thanks, > Nick replacing valves? after only 89k miles? absolutely not necessary. not cheap either! check the archives - hondas regularly go over 300k, and valve wear is never an issue afaik. Valves sorry no I haven't adjusted them. I only adjusted the idle speed. I'll look into that. >>>>Here is an update to my problem. >>>> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >cheap either! check the archives - hondas regularly go over 300k, and >valve wear is never an issue afaik. |
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