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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 200592 Civic cracks but want start NEED HELP
My son has a 92 honda Civic that he was driving and it cut off on him and will not start. His car may have run out of gas or over heated due to a ratiator leak. Poss water problem. I have done the following: 1. New distibutor on 2. New rotor button 3. New plugs 4. Checked Coil OK Getting fire on plugs and fuel in camber. Put piston 1 in top dead center and checked to see if rotor lined up on distributor OK. Engine Rotates good, just want fire. NEED HElp > My son has a 92 honda Civic that he was driving and it cut off on him and > will not start. His car may have run out of gas or over heated due to a [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > NEED HElp ----------------------- You missed a few details. What's the mileage? Was it moving when it died, or did it simply fail to start the next morning? Have you read the page in your Owner's manual called 'Starting the Engine', and tried the Honda suggestions? P.S. Don't put tap water in the cooling system. Let us know if you get anywhere . . . . 'Curly' Sorry the milage is over 200,000 miles He was moving then it cut off. No haven't tryed the manual. Tryed the manual Still want start > My son has a 92 honda Civic that he was driving and it cut off on him and > will not start. His car may have run out of gas or over heated due to a [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > NEED HElp http://tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#stalling I checked the ICM for voltage and continuity, all my voltages were right, but the continuity between the post on the side (Blue wire(off set))of the ICM and the Possitive side (White with Blue)of the coil. There I am getting no reading, it should be between 1.1 and 3.3 K-ohms Would this keep the motor from starting? >I checked the ICM for voltage and continuity, all my voltages were right, >but the continuity between the post on the side (Blue wire(off set))of the >ICM and the Possitive side (White with Blue)of the coil. >There I am getting no reading, it should be between 1.1 and 3.3 K-ohms >Would this keep the motor from starting? Have you checked the resistance on the coil itself? You said you were getting spark - how did you check that? Did it look like a strong spark? Also, you said something about the engine overheating. When did that happen? Have you checked compression? >>I checked the ICM for voltage and continuity, all my voltages were >>right, but the continuity between the post on the side (Blue wire(off [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Also, you said something about the engine overheating. When did that > happen? Have you checked compression? Has the OP ever checked the ignition timing? Overheating can suggest overly advanced timing.  SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ I checked the spark by removing each plug one at a time and grounded it and had my son crack the car. Seened to be a strong spark. > I checked the ICM for voltage and continuity, all my voltages were right, > but the continuity between the post on the side (Blue wire(off set))of the > ICM and the Possitive side (White with Blue)of the coil. > There I am getting no reading, it should be between 1.1 and 3.3 K-ohms > Would this keep the motor from starting? Some Honda will use the coil Blue wire (tach signal) to keep the fuel pump latched on. This isn't your case if your vehicle uses the alternator wire as a sensor. For example, some Toyotas will stall, won't start or start then stalls if the alternator wire is broken or the coil feedback wire is disconnected or broken to the computer. You might want to run a temporary wire from the coil tach output to the computer for good measure. In some cases, driving an overheated car can blow the head gasket, reduce compressions and stalls and won't start. I put on the new ICM Still want start, I'm going to check the compression next. |
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