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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2005'78 Honda Civic - Stuck wheel, Mayonaise
Please help! What to do? I cannot get off the rear wheel drum on my trusty '78 Honda Civic (just 100,305 M on it) to check the brake shoes. The nut is off, and I've loosened the brake adjustment, but the drum does not come off.(It can be rotated.) I've tried prying with a screw driver between the drum edge and the back plate, but no luck. The other rear wheel drum just slides off. The other question I have is about the oil filler cap. Especially when it is cold outside, the oil filler cap is covered with some Mayonaise-like substance. What is this emulsion? Does it do any harm? I would appreciate any suggestions. Especially, about the drum. Thanks, Alex > Please help! >What to do? I cannot get off the rear wheel drum [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >and the back plate, but no luck. >The other rear wheel drum just slides off. You should find two threaded holes in the drum near the hub. Fit a pair of 12 mm bolts into these holes and tighten them evenly, half-a-turn at a time. This will pop the drum off. >The other question I have is about the oil filler cap. >Especially when it is cold outside, the oil filler cap >is covered with some Mayonaise-like substance. >What is this emulsion? Oil mixed with water and/or coolant >Does it do any harm? It may indicate problems, like a leaking head gasket. A small amount may just be due to condensation. Do you take only short trips in winter, that never bring the engine fully up to temperature? Check your oil level, take the car on a 100 mile run, then check the level again. Any water and gas in the oil will have boiled off by then. If the oil level is down appreciably, note exactly what the level is and check it again the next day. If it's mysteriously rising, you've got problems. How's the coolant level in the rad? John Ings wrote: > You should find two threaded holes in the drum near the hub. Fit a > pair of 12 mm bolts into these holes and tighten them evenly, > half-a-turn at a time. This will pop the drum off. doh! i forgot bout that technique. works like a charm. John's comment about using two bolts in the drum is right. Sometimes you will have to back off the auto-aduster inside the drum because they may have worn such that a slight rigde exists on the edge of the drum. That edge can keep the drum from coming off, because the pads hit against it when you try to pull the drum off. On the backing plate you'll find a hole, often covered with a rubber cover. Using a brake spoon (looks like a bent screw driver) you'll be able to engage the teeth of a ratchet operated auto-adjuster. Turning this adjusted will allow you to back the pads so they don't hold against the drum any longer. Also, pay attention as to what direction you turn this ratchet: one way tightens and it one way loosens it Since you have one side off, look at the assembly and you'll see what I mean. Remco If you have a manual, it should tell you d allow you to get a brake s > You should find two threaded holes in the drum near the hub. Fit a > pair of 12 mm bolts into these holes and tighten them evenly, > half-a-turn at a time. This will pop the drum off. WARNING: Northern cars can develop a rust ridge around the perimeter of the drum that can hook behind the shoes, preventing the drum from sliding off even when the shoes are backed off all the way. If this happens, you have no choice but to Dremel off the backs of the hold-down pins so you can pull the works right off. The OP's problem is evidently the drum rusted to the hub, which has been addressed already so I won't get into that, except to say that if the rust seal is bad enough (and I have seen this), those two bolts will CRACK the drum face. A dull chisel and a hammer around the hub/drum join is a better idea. >>The other question I have is about the oil filler cap. >>Especially when it is cold outside, the oil filler cap [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Do you take only short trips in winter, that never bring the engine > fully up to temperature? Taste it (then wipe it off your tongue after). If it's sweet, it's coolant. If it's not, it's water and it's time to give your car a good long run on the highway so it can boil off the water.  SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ I've never worked on Honda drums, but don't all drums all have an access hole so you can back the shoes off? Or are honda/integra drums different in that regard? > I've never worked on Honda drums, but don't all drums all have an > access hole so you can back the shoes off? Or are honda/integra drums > different in that regard? Many of them do (but not all!), but sometimes the rust ridge is pretty big, and you can't back the shoes off far enough to get past the ridge. It takes a lot of rust to do this, and I figured a '78 may have been around long enough to make this a possibility. Every time I remove a drum, I grind off that rust ridge. Even if there isn't one, I run the grinder around the perimeter to cut the metal back a bit, just in case. SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Please help! > What to do? I cannot get off the rear wheel drum [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > and the back plate, but no luck. > The other rear wheel drum just slides off. spray around the lugs with PB blaster, and smack that bitch with a rubber mallet. a LOT. > The other question I have is about the oil filler cap. > Especially when it is cold outside, the oil filler cap > is covered with some Mayonaise-like substance. > What is this emulsion? Does it do any harm? water in the oil. some is normal. a lot isnt. how often do you change your oil? do a lot of short trips? oil level normal? does the car run hot? overheat at all? > I would appreciate any suggestions. Especially, > about the drum. > Thanks, Alex BINGO!, but I use a brass hammer. And sometimes turning the drum as pulling will "unthread" it from the shoes. As someone who does brakes several times a week, and inspects more cars than I care to count, I have never had to "dremmel a rust ridge off" and only a few times had to back-off the shoes.. SignatureStephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician ASE Undercar Specialist >> Please help! >> What to do? I cannot get off the rear wheel drum [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> about the drum. >> Thanks, Alex > BINGO!, but I use a brass hammer. And sometimes turning the drum as > pulling will "unthread" it from the shoes. > As someone who does brakes several times a week, and inspects more > cars than I care to count, I have never had to "dremmel a rust ridge > off" and only a few times had to back-off the shoes.. Where do you live? SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > BINGO!, but I use a brass hammer. And sometimes turning the drum as > pulling will "unthread" it from the shoes. > As someone who does brakes several times a week, and inspects more > cars than I care to count, I have never had to "dremmel a rust ridge > off" and only a few times had to back-off the shoes.. You appear to be on the West Coast in WA. You don't get the rust we get. Do you have this much rust?: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html You don't "Dremel" the ridge off, you use an air grinder with a conical (or bullet-shaped) bit. SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> BINGO!, but I use a brass hammer. And sometimes turning the drum as >> pulling will "unthread" it from the shoes. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > You appear to be on the West Coast in WA. I think when I said "Northern", I should have said "North-EASTERN". Very different climate from yours. SignatureTeGGeR? The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I think when I said "Northern", I should have said "North-EASTERN". Very > different climate from yours. Hey John, I think you must have snuck into my driveway and taken a picture of the brakes of one of my cars. :) You're in the north east as well? CT here so we're in the same rusty boat.. I didn't even look at your pictures, and I do know what you are talking about. We do see some east coast cars in here and the rust is horrendous. but with a few good hits with a hammer and it usually comes off. The only one that fought me was a HUGE dodge truck and a 1961 jeep truck. That one I put a large gear puller and air hammered it tight for 2 days. Then hit it with a BFH. The lead tech at the other shop was from NJ, and told me the stories of wrenching on cars back there.. he says the only difference is you replace more hardware, and used the torch... Take care SignatureStephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician ASE Undercar Specialist >>> BINGO!, but I use a brass hammer. And sometimes turning the drum as >>> pulling will "unthread" it from the shoes. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I think when I said "Northern", I should have said "North-EASTERN". Very > different climate from yours. The mayonnaise like substance could be the result of adding plenty of additives like fule likne cleaner, carb cleaner etc... (found that out on an old Pontiac I once had). The drum, if it rotates and won't come off then you probably missed a screw on the other side. a '78 with only ~100M ??? Damn! You just drive it once a month for groceries?? > Please help! > What to do? I cannot get off the rear wheel drum [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > about the drum. > Thanks, Alex |
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