Yes, all the new bushings and the stabilizer parts are OEM.

For the front control arm bushings, I went through my local
import car shop, which coincidentally had the best prices
anywhere. The shop explained that they get these bushings
direct from the factory that makes them. The part numbers on
the packaging indicated the bushings were OEM.

Unfortunately the local import shop does not also sell the
rear control arm bushings. So yesterday I ordered one set
for one rear control arm from cheapesthondaparts.com.

Yes: All four of the front lower control arm bushing outer
sleeves were exhausting to remove. My arm tendons are wiped
out but recovering. Maybe a guy wouldn't have it so tough,
though plenty of reports on Usenet say guys too are wiped
out by the effort.

See my update at

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/browse_frm/thread/4f4af16c
bf1e1fe6/0566454239dc492b?lnk=st&q=bushing+insubject%3Aupdate+author%3Aelle&rnum
=3#0566454239dc492b

For the rear control arm bushings, I have been researching
huge Pitman Arm pullers, as well as re-designing a "bolt
puller" from Harbor Freight I bought for $11. This includes
evaluating the pullers Snap-On uses and rates from a couple
of tons up to 20 tons or so.

A tool with a 3/4-inch pressure bolt (fine thread, Grade 8)
should easily press the new bushings in (requiring about 8
tons of force, worst case for those in the rust belt), by my
calculations. If I push the tool to its limits (admittedly
risking breakage), I might be able to use it to press the
old outer sleeves out, as well. I think 12 to 20 tons of
force may be necessary for very rusted outer bushing
sleeves.

I have one seized bolt (of six) on the two rear control arms
so far. Based on past work on these arms, I don't expect
more. With my trusty air die grinder and a 1/32-inch, 4-inch
diameter cutoff wheel, I will cut out the one bolt. I am
aiming to have it done within four hours, conservatively.
Which will trump the two days I took a few years ago for
another control arm bolt using... you don't want to know.
Those inner sleeves weld to the bolt in many cases.

From what JT said and more reading, I think reports on the
net are a bit "all over the map" (figuratively and
literally) for bushing removal. That is, many report the
sockets-bolt-nut-washer method reliably works; others say
they pounded like mad with a huge hammer. Some have said a
two-ton press won't work. Some report a 12-ton press is
sufficient. I think the variation is indeed due to
differences in geographic location and perhaps how many
years have elapsed since changing out the bushings.

For the DIY-er, I think it prudent to change the bushings
like every six years/100k miles at this point, whichever
comes first.

I do think my Civic handles better. It's got that "corners
almost like it's on rails" feel again.

I am contemplating doing the trailing arm bushings within a
year. It's a question of whether I want to lay out $170 or
so for a supah-dupah heavy duty Pitman arm puller-like tool
precisely fit to the trailing arm bushings. The following
are the two best reports I've seen on it:

http://marketwareinc.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=3442

http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200510/ai_n15740759/pg_2
(Motor magazine, October 2005 article by one Dan Marinucci)

The article above also has the OEM part number for the
trailing arm bushings:
52385-SR3000 . Cheapesthondaparts.com has them. Ebay sells
some Energy Suspension yada versions of the Trailing Arm
bushings for quite a bit less, too. I may go prothane yada
for them.