Well, RPM goes like 5000 in only 4/5 seconds. I never let it go higher.
I didn't purge the air intake. Do you think that may solve the problem?
My 1991 Civic LX manual transmission (might be the same engine as yours) was
revving up to only 1200 or so, then falling, then revving again, last summer
when sitting at a stoplight and whence, back home, I found air in the EAC
valve. A proper purge fixed this. Would more air in the system cause revs to
5000? Dunno. But if you didn't properly purge the air, then that's the first
thing I would do here.
On the matter "purge the air intake"(?): I think we're not quite on the same
page here.
What I mean is as follows:
After draining and re-filling your radiator cooling system recently, with
the car of course fully cooled, did you then (1) leave the radiator cap
off; (2) start the car; (3) wait until the radiator FAN came on twice; (4)
added more coolant to keep the radiator neck topped off throughout?
As I mentioned, it takes a long time (30 to 55 minutes) for the car to warm
up enough to make the fan come on.
> Well, RPM goes like 5000 in only 4/5 seconds. I never let it go higher.
>
> I didn't purge the air intake. Do you think that may solve the problem?
B Squareman - 31 Aug 2005 09:32 GMT
> On the matter "purge the air intake"(?): I think we're not quite on the same
> page here.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> off; (2) start the car; (3) wait until the radiator FAN came on twice; (4)
> added more coolant to keep the radiator neck topped off throughout?
You forgot some steps. (5) Turn the heater dial to max HOT
(6) Release air from the bleed nipple. (7) Close the nipple.
> Well, RPM goes like 5000 in only 4/5 seconds. I never let it go higher.
>
> I didn't purge the air intake. Do you think that may solve the problem?
Please turn quoting back on in your newsreader.
You have an odd problem indeed. This phenomenon could /only/ occur if an
adequate amount of fuel and air were being admitted to the intake, that
amount increasing with the revs, so as to sustain the increase.
I almost think you have a dirty throttle body that is so filthy it's
causing the throttle plate to stick open.
Low coolant results in surging (like with a big air leak), not a steadily
increasing idle that occurs over 4 or 5 seconds.
Questions (please intersperse your answers):
You say it's "recently" been doing this. When is "recently"?
Had the vehicle been subject to heavy rains or driven through deep water?
Had a collision?
What happened to/with the car immediately before it started to rev like
this?
If you were to let it rev, will it eventually reach redline? You have a rev
limiter, so it ought to go no further than abut 6,800 rpm.

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The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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TeGGeR® - 30 Aug 2005 00:38 GMT
<snip>
> If you were to let it rev, will it eventually reach redline? You have
> a rev limiter, so it ought to go no further than abut 6,800 rpm.
Also, what kind of maintenance has the car had? When were the
cap/plugs/wires and rotor replaced last?
Does the car seem to have poor power all the time, and to start slowly with
lots of cranking?

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jim beam - 30 Aug 2005 03:18 GMT
> <snip>
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Does the car seem to have poor power all the time, and to start slowly with
> lots of cranking?
ITEM #1. _check the throttle cable._ it's probably sticking open. the
engine /cannot/ rev is it's not getting air & gas.
if that's not it, i concur about leaving it on - the rev limiter will
protect it, so see if it corrects with the eacv. also look for vacuum
leaks.
T L - 30 Aug 2005 05:12 GMT
I agree, I had a cruise control cable stick on my 85 nissan that caused this
problem, made the throttle stick way too far open.
>> <snip>
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>protect it, so see if it corrects with the eacv. also look for vacuum
>leaks.