Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 2005
Antifreeze issue
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Subhabrata Bhattacharyya - 06 Oct 2005 16:39 GMT My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and contacted Honda dealer to get the Antifreeze. They said they no longer sale the green one anymore. They sell the blue one. I asked whether I need to flush out the old one to put in a blue one, the guy said "sure!" but after a quasi long pause!! So, my question to this trusted group of mine is:
1) Is it okay to use a generic green antifreeze from Pennzoil? (It's about half the price!) 2) Is it okay to mix it with the old green antifreeze? Does it have any break down period like the way engine oil does? 3) Can I use the double distilled, deionozed water that is available in laboratories?
Thanks SB
Elle - 06 Oct 2005 17:08 GMT Quick response from a 1991 Civic (171k miles) (original) owner:
What I've seen generally is mixing different anti-freezes, even if they're the same color, is a bad idea. Definitely do not mix a conventional Prestone green with the OEM coolant, which may be the blue stuff at the dealer's. Definitely do not mix orange with green, etc. (Of course the color coding implies a particular, certain chemistry, hence the advice not to mix.)
Ideally, do a flush (which is just a drain, fill, drain, etc. a few times). You can probably get away with just a full drain (including engine block drain plug removed), but it doesn't take but a few minutes to go the next step and fill and drain a few more times. I just used hose water for this. Of note is that, when I measured all the coolant in my Civic's cooling system this past April, what came out matched exactly the capacities listed in the manual. The point being that a drain, fill, drain etc. should get darn near everything old out.
The drain and fill also removes a lot of sand-like sediment that can impede proper cooling or maybe bind mechanical parts. Around a 1/4 teaspoon of this came out when I did a drain and fill after about 2.5 years this past April. That may not seem like much, but ISTM some of the passages and the water pump clearances are small and could cause the aforementioned problems. (Someone else might elaborate.)
Generic anti-freezes are said to cause water pump (bearing?) problems. I can't say for sure, but I know I had water pump problems after using the green stuff. Lots of folks have testified here to the same. Three years ago I switched to the orange (after a very thorough flush). I have had no water pump problems since. The water pump is currently 4 years and 60k miles old, having lasted much longer than the previous one (or two). I'll replace it in two more years, when I do the timing belt. I won't be hitting the mileage spec.
About anti-freeze shelf life, from Havoline's orange Dex Cool site: "The primary limiting factor in the shelf life of a coolant is silicate instability. Since silicate will eventually polymerize to silicate gel, all traditional coolants have a shelf life of about 18 months. Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant DEX-COOL is silicate-free and therefore can be stored for at least 8 years without a problem, provided the integrity of the container is maintained." http://www.havoline.com/products/na/antifreeze_01_tech.html
For distilled water, I just buy a gallon marked "distilled" at the grocery store. Dunno about the lab water. The grocery gallon is cheap and common enough.
Suggestion: List the year, miles, and model of Honda you own if you have more technical questions.
> My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above > the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > 3) Can I use the double distilled, deionozed water that is available in > laboratories? SoCalMike - 07 Oct 2005 01:52 GMT > Ideally, do a flush (which is just a drain, fill, drain, etc. a few times). > You can probably get away with just a full drain (including engine block > drain plug removed), but it doesn't take but a few minutes to go the next > step and fill and drain a few more times. I just used hose water for this. we forgot to add to make sure the heater lever is full "on" for the whole procedure. that gets ALL the bad stuff out/good stuff in.
Elle - 07 Oct 2005 03:16 GMT > Elle wrote: > > Ideally, do a flush (which is just a drain, fill, drain, etc. a few times). [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > we forgot to add to make sure the heater lever is full "on" for the > whole procedure. that gets ALL the bad stuff out/good stuff in. Yes. I was going on the bold assumption sb4t was using his/her owner's manual's instructions.
y_p_w - 07 Oct 2005 04:25 GMT > Quick response from a 1991 Civic (171k miles) (original) owner: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Definitely do not mix orange with green, etc. (Of course the color coding > implies a particular, certain chemistry, hence the advice not to mix.) The conventional yellow Prestone is no longer being sold. What they primarily sell now is "Prestone All Makes", which is a organic-acid only coolant. No phosphates, silicates, borates, etc. The ingredient label looks suspiciously like Prestone Dex-Cool.
If I were going to do a full change and Prestone All Makes was the only stuff I could get, I would have no problem using it. When my '95 Integra GS-R blew a coolant hose, I filled it with Havoline Dex-Cool and it worked fine for 18K miles. The plastic radiator tank finally cracked, but I heard that wasn't unusual at 130K miles.
Mike S. - 08 Oct 2005 01:19 GMT >> Quick response from a 1991 Civic (171k miles) (original) owner: >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >Dex-Cool and it worked fine for 18K miles. The plastic radiator >tank finally cracked, but I heard that wasn't unusual at 130K miles. Hmm. I happened upon this thread, got rather concerned, and now feel a little better :-)
I recently allowed a Firestone center to do a radiator flush. They filled it with some generic green-yellow coolant which is merely referred to on the bill as "pre-mix".
At first I feared they had used an old Prestone-like silicate formula ... but in view of the above perhaps it isn't. On Monday I'm going to call them and see if I can ascertain exactly what they did put in my radiator.
SoCalMike - 08 Oct 2005 06:04 GMT > At first I feared they had used an old Prestone-like silicate formula ... > but in view of the above perhaps it isn't. On Monday I'm going to call > them and see if I can ascertain exactly what they did put in my radiator. i definately would. chances are, theyre using the lowest-priced bulk stuff they can get. id guess thatd be regular prestone, with all them phosphates that are bad for hondas.
Mike S. - 11 Oct 2005 15:02 GMT >> At first I feared they had used an old Prestone-like silicate formula ... >> but in view of the above perhaps it isn't. On Monday I'm going to call [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >stuff they can get. id guess thatd be regular prestone, with all them >phosphates that are bad for hondas. I called Firestone. They tell me the green antifreeze they install is DexCool. As I understand this is organic-acid based.
Elle - 11 Oct 2005 16:11 GMT > SoCalMike <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote: > >> At first I feared they had used an old Prestone-like silicate formula ... [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I called Firestone. They tell me the green antifreeze they install is > DexCool. As I understand this is organic-acid based. I'm not finding any support on the net for Dexcool being green. Make them tell you the exact brandname.
Firestone: Years ago I used them, but in hindsight, they did not do a good job. Maybe I'd trust them for an oil change or new tires, at most.
Mike S. - 11 Oct 2005 16:28 GMT >> SoCalMike <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote: >> >> At first I feared they had used an old Prestone-like silicate formula [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >I'm not finding any support on the net for Dexcool being green. Make them >tell you the exact brandname. I can't find support for that either, except for comments that you can't make conclusions based on color.
Firestone says the stuff if marked "Advanced A Plus".
>Firestone: Years ago I used them, but in hindsight, they did not do a good >job. Maybe I'd trust them for an oil change or new tires, at most. In retrospect it was a mistake. I'm just trying to firugre out what, if anything, to do now ... and how soon.
Elle - 11 Oct 2005 16:46 GMT > Elle <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote: > >> SoCalMike <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote: [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > I can't find support for that either, except for comments that you can't > make conclusions based on color. I myself wouldn't say that so quickly. The color coding is there for a reason.
> Firestone says the stuff if marked "Advanced A Plus". Huh. I guess you googled already. I myself found nothing on the net on this stuff.
> >Firestone: Years ago I used them, but in hindsight, they did not do a good > >job. Maybe I'd trust them for an oil change or new tires, at most. > > In retrospect it was a mistake. I'm just trying to firugre out what, if > anything, to do now ... and how soon. Want to try a drain and fill yourself?
It's really no harder than an oil change...
I figure if you do something within a month, no serious damage will result.
jmattis@attglobal.net - 06 Oct 2005 17:18 GMT > My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above > the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks > SB First, and most important, do not use any silicone/silicate formulation. If you have it in there now, you are ruining the water pump seals. Flush like crazy and fill with genuine Honda coolant. Expensive? You just won't believe what it costs to replace the pump. The photomicrographs of the damaged seals show erosion caused by the silicate. Silicate is simply sand.
You might be okay with an OAT type coolant like Dex-Cool, but it has it's own set of problems like sludge formation if the radiator gets air in it. So, overfill the bottle like Texaco recommends. And check the level often. It will give you long life, but so does Honda's blue formulation.
I have a minor in chemistry. The lab water is first distilled like the bottled variety, and is then stripped of the ions that remain. This is produced by a great big, stainless-steel expresso-looking machine, right? But, such pure water becomes a decent solvent, and tries to dissolve whatever it's in contact with, much more than regular water. "Nature abhors a vacuum." So, if it were me, I would actually add a cup or two of tap water depending on your local water hardness.
y_p_w - 07 Oct 2005 04:21 GMT > First, and most important, do not use any silicone/silicate > formulation. If you have it in there now, you are ruining the water > pump seals. Flush like crazy and fill with genuine Honda coolant. > Expensive? You just won't believe what it costs to replace the pump. > The photomicrographs of the damaged seals show erosion caused by the > silicate. Silicate is simply sand. Silicates are not sand, although they're made from sand. Supposedly only a small fraction might turn into abrasive crystals when they inevitably come out of suspension. The main problem with silicates are that they're unstable and form a gel that can plug up small radiator passages. The shelf life of a typical silicated coolant is 18 months.
Silicone is generally not a problem. It may be a problem if silicate/silicone ends up in the combustion chamber and is burned at high temperature into an abrasive. However - a coolant leak into the combustion chamber is a more serious problem.
jim beam - 07 Oct 2005 05:22 GMT >>My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above >>the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > "Nature abhors a vacuum." So, if it were me, I would actually add a > cup or two of tap water depending on your local water hardness. i wouldn't. on the one hand, the water is a dilutant for a big hairy dose of some pre-mixed goop, the exact compositon of which is going to be debatable. on the other, the ionized water is an electrolyte. any environment where there are differing materials in the presence of an electrolyte and the ability to conduct any galvanic currents, you get corrosion. /any/ ion content can accelerate that process, not diminish it.
Subhabrata Bhattacharyya - 06 Oct 2005 20:07 GMT My car is 2000 Honda Civic Value pack (kind of in between a basic and a LX regarding the trim, but no difference in engine) with 69000 miles on it. The car is Canadian make. Mostly, I put in highway miles from C'ville to Philadelphia.(520 miles roundtrip) Thanks a lot for the feedback. I will do a flush and fill up with Honda Genuine Antifreeze. I am kind of skeptical about adding a cup or two of tap water to that water though as suggested by jmattis. The slightly better solvent property of the deionized double distilled water compared to distilled water is almost a moot point considering its usage as a mixture to the antifreeze. I understand that it probably is a overkill. I might use it because its easy availability to me:-)
SB
> My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above > the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks > SB TeGGeR® - 06 Oct 2005 22:43 GMT > My car is 2000 Honda Civic Value pack (kind of in between a basic and > a LX regarding the trim, but no difference in engine) with 69000 miles [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > of skeptical about adding a cup or two of tap water to that water > though as suggested by jmattis. Honda Genuine is PREMIXED!!!! DO NOT add ANY kind of water to Honda Genuine antifreeze!
And make certain you pull the block drain. Do not neglect this step. There is a quart of fluid in the block that is not drained unless you remove the block drain.
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Woody - 07 Oct 2005 00:23 GMT You can get Honda premixed or not. They sell both.
>> My car is 2000 Honda Civic Value pack (kind of in between a basic and >> a LX regarding the trim, but no difference in engine) with 69000 miles [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > is a quart of fluid in the block that is not drained unless you remove the > block drain. TeGGeR® - 07 Oct 2005 01:01 GMT > You can get Honda premixed or not. They sell both. Not around here (Peoples' Republic of Kanada). Premix or nothing.
Your Mileage, as the old saw goes, May Vary. Ask your dealer.
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T L - 11 Oct 2005 19:26 GMT Last time I went to my dealer in Steinbach Manitoba they asked me whether I needed type I or type II coolant. I had no idea, so I made them look it up. My 98 civic takes type I, which means it takes any generic coolant. So they sold me a jug of NAPA green stuff.
t
>> You can get Honda premixed or not. They sell both. > >Not around here (Peoples' Republic of Kanada). Premix or nothing. > >Your Mileage, as the old saw goes, May Vary. Ask your dealer. TeGGeR® - 11 Oct 2005 19:54 GMT > Last time I went to my dealer in Steinbach Manitoba they asked me > whether I needed type I or type II coolant. I had no idea, so I made > them look it up. My 98 civic takes type I, which means it takes any > generic coolant. So they sold me a jug of NAPA green stuff. But was it LONG LIFE "generic green stuff", or was it the old-style silicated stuff?
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T L - 14 Oct 2005 15:07 GMT Not sure Tegger, suppose its silly but I trusted the dealer when they said "Here use this stuff". I don't think its long life, whatever that means. I just chucked the bottle out the other day too. Crap.
A while ago i talked to a different dealer, they told me that the antifreeze was meant to last the life of the vehicle. And the brake fluid and clutch fluid too.
That time I didn't just listen blindly, I found a different dealer.... :)
t
>> Last time I went to my dealer in Steinbach Manitoba they asked me >> whether I needed type I or type II coolant. I had no idea, so I made [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >But was it LONG LIFE "generic green stuff", or was it the old-style >silicated stuff? jim beam - 15 Oct 2005 02:14 GMT > Not sure Tegger, suppose its silly but I trusted the dealer when they said > "Here use this stuff". I don't think its long life, whatever that means. I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > That time I didn't just listen blindly, I found a different dealer.... :) no kidding! smart move...
> t > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >>But was it LONG LIFE "generic green stuff", or was it the old-style >>silicated stuff? TeGGeR® - 15 Oct 2005 04:01 GMT > Not sure Tegger, suppose its silly but I trusted the dealer when they > said "Here use this stuff". I don't think its long life, whatever > that means. I just chucked the bottle out the other day too. Crap. > > A while ago i talked to a different dealer, they told me that the > antifreeze was meant to last the life of the vehicle. They told you that and they have a Honda franchise???
> And the brake > fluid and clutch fluid too. They told you that and they have a Honda franchise???
> That time I didn't just listen blindly, I found a different dealer.... > :) Damn straight. They're f***ed in the head.
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SoCalMike - 07 Oct 2005 01:54 GMT >> My car is 2000 Honda Civic Value pack (kind of in between a basic and >> a LX regarding the trim, but no difference in engine) with 69000 miles [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > is a quart of fluid in the block that is not drained unless you remove the > block drain. but if the block drain is siezed or too much of a PITA, dont sweat it. the "flush" will take care of it.
TeGGeR® - 07 Oct 2005 02:15 GMT >>> My car is 2000 Honda Civic Value pack (kind of in between a basic >>> and a LX regarding the trim, but no difference in engine) with 69000 [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > but if the block drain is siezed or too much of a PITA, dont sweat it. > the "flush" will take care of it. No it won't. All it will do is dilute the new stuff.
A 19mm socket, a 3ft breaker bar and a bit of grunting will break it loose. No prob.
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Elle - 07 Oct 2005 17:53 GMT "SoCalMike" <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote T wrote
> > And make certain you pull the block drain. Do not neglect this step. There > > is a quart of fluid in the block that is not drained unless you remove the > > block drain. > > > but if the block drain is siezed or too much of a PITA, dont sweat it. > the "flush" will take care of it. Just want to be honest and say the flush (really, drain and fill several times) I did a few years ago and a few years before that was with the engine block drain bolt intact. That bolt can be hard to remove, though this past year, I got it off easily. Others have reported that they don't bother to remove it and have been fine, as far as can be told. Which is why I haven't lost sleep over not removing it in the past.
A dilution calculation is appropriate, though, as Tegger has mentioned, since not removing the bolt will result in a certain amount of residual water/coolant remaining in the block when one does the final fill.
There's a fair amount of variation in how much the engine blocks of different Hondas hold, IIRC. To be totally scientific, measure what comes out of the petcock at the bottom of the radiator, and use this with the manual to figure out what's sitting in the block, undrained.
Just an amateur but amateurs' experiences do add to the anecdotal data base, IMO.
SoCalMike - 07 Oct 2005 01:50 GMT > My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little above > the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to top it up and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > 1) Is it okay to use a generic green antifreeze from Pennzoil? (It's about > half the price!) hell no. you CAN use the orange dexcool 100k mile stuff in the silver jug. either way, you should drain, run regular water thru for 10mins, drain again. THEN add a 50/50 coolant mix.
some peeps here may disagree with the orange dexcool recommendation and suggest only honda coolant. your call. ive used the orange dex in a variety of aluminum japanese gas engines over the past 15 years, and have had NO problems whatsoever with anything.
> 2) Is it okay to mix it with the old green antifreeze? Does it have any > break down period like the way engine oil does? i wouldnt, no.
> 3) Can I use the double distilled, deionozed water that is available in > laboratories? i think that would even be better than regular distilled water!
> Thanks > SB TeGGeR® - 07 Oct 2005 02:27 GMT >> My car has enough Antifreeze (green one) in the radiator but little >> above the min. mark in the tank. I read Elle's post and thought to [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >> 1) Is it okay to use a generic green antifreeze from Pennzoil? (It's >> about half the price!) It's chock full of silicates, too, I'll bet! It's *so* economical to save $10 on antifreeze and spend $500 on a head gasket.
> hell no. you CAN use the orange dexcool 100k mile stuff in the silver > jug. either way, you should drain, run regular water thru for 10mins, > drain again. THEN add a 50/50 coolant mix. 70/30 antifreeze/water if you refuse to open the block drain.
> some peeps here may disagree with the orange dexcool recommendation > and suggest only honda coolant. I'm one of those. Mixing long-life antifreezes destroys the long-life corrosion protection extenders. It dumbs you back down to the default two years.
> your call. ive used the orange dex in > a variety of aluminum japanese gas engines over the past 15 years, and > have had NO problems whatsoever with anything. Not that you've ever paid any attention to.
>> 2) Is it okay to mix it with the old green antifreeze? Does it have >> any break down period like the way engine oil does? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > i think that would even be better than regular distilled water! Makes no difference whatsoever. So long as mineral solids are absent, any kind of water is fine. But not with Honda Genuine Premix.
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