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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 2005Crush Washer
I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? I used the same one on a honda for 15 years and 200K miles - almost no drips. Only have 8 years and 190K on the current crush washer - expect to get at least 250K out of this one. >I used the same one on a honda for 15 years and 200K miles - almost no >drips. Only have 8 years and 190K on the current crush washer - expect >to get at least 250K out of this one. Ditto. I've used the original on my 90 accord. Estimate 50 oil changes. Carport floor is still clean as a whistle. Frank >I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware > store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, > that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? I bought a bunch on-line... Google it... > <76steelers@bellsouth.net> wrote > >I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware > > store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, > > that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? > > I bought a bunch on-line... Google it... I have started buying OEM honda oil filters and crush washers and any other parts I think I'll need in the future (to save on shipping) at www.slhonda.com. I have a vague recollection Autozone and Pep Boys sells crush washers, too. Don't re-use the old washer. They lose their "spring" after awhile (like after one use?), which means you'll have to torque more for the same amount of sealing effect. Ultimately risking the stripping of threads. : I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware : store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, : that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? When I could no longer find the real crush washers (metal and rubber), I started using the nylon kind. They work quite well, but they can be a bit difficult to find. Pep Boys used to carry them, maybe still do. The all-metal kind you can get from the dealer work OK too. Paul > The all-metal kind you can get from the dealer work OK too. Never heard of all-metal kind. >> The all-metal kind you can get from the dealer work OK too. > > Never heard of all-metal kind. That's all you can get in Canada from the dealer. Doesn't matter one whit whether there's rubber in the washer or not. Successful sealing is quite independent of the materials used.  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware > store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, > that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? You can use anythng you like. If you substitute nylon or gasket material, drop your torque to 20 ft/lbs from 33, otherwise you risk overstressing the pan threads. Actually, I use the Honda all-aluminum washer sold up here, and torque to 31 ft/lbs. I used gasket material for years. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware > store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, > that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? im still using the same crush washer that came with my 98 civic. thats something like 10 oil changes, no leaks. so if you cant get one immediately, dont sweat it. I got mine from the local auto store. > I don't have a Honda Dealer close by. Can I go to my local hardware > store to get a crush washer? Or is there something special about them, > that they have to be bought at the Honda Dealer? The one from the dealers is an exact fit. The all-aluminium crush washer from the hardware store will come in all shape and sizes, which works fine if they cover the nut. Reusing them can lead to leaks months later or risk scarring the oil pan's washer surface because of debris and the tendancy to overtighten. Once scarred, you may never reuse any washers. Thanks everyone for the input. > Thanks everyone for the input. Has anyone tried the Fram Sure Drain? It replaces the drain plug with a one way valve. You remove the cap, & attach a drain hose. Drain the oil right into an empty jug. >> Thanks everyone for the input. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > drain hose. Drain the oil right into an > empty jug. i wouldn't. just another point for potential failure. it gets real expensive to dump your oil on the freeway 2 hours from civilization. >>> Thanks everyone for the input. >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > i wouldn't. just another point for potential failure. it gets real > expensive to dump your oil on the freeway 2 hours from civilization. I don't see why this would be more likely to fail than the drain plug. I've run one for over a year in a Chevy truck with no problems, & put one on my 94 VX when I bought it. So far, no problems, no crush washers. YMMV >>>> Thanks everyone for the input. >>> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > YMMV mike, /you/ can do whatever you want. /i/ wouldn't use it. with a standard plug, you only have the threads and washer to fail. and those are pretty reliable. with a drain attachment as you describe, you have the thread, the washer, the valve mechanism, the valve seal and an unproven material. /you/ may be happy with this on your vehicle, but it is unarguably a significant increase in points of potential failure! > I don't see why this would be more likely to fail than the drain plug. > I've run one for over a year in a Chevy truck with no problems, & > put one on my 94 VX when I bought it. So far, no problems, no > crush washers. I don't know how many times I've driven over uneven road surfaces, curbs or debris on the freeway. This is a failure waiting to happen if Fram Sure Drain is protruding like this image: http://www.motorcities.com/photo/view/02LQF345838026C.jpeg/0/ The Fram Sure Drain is spring loaded (see image at bottom) with a tightness of about 5-8 lbs then why would Honda specify 28-30 lb for a nut and washer? This device also uses an o-ring which can age over time. There are no o-rings comparable to Honda genuine o-rings. This device also has a small opening, probably in conjunction with a spring, could prevent large debris such as crud from fully draining which could wreck the motor. Overall, Honda's oil pan nut is one solid object with large openings that is designed well, practical and predictable. http://rustysoffroad.com/media/fram/fram_suredrain_05.jpg The oil drain plug is a simple easy to get to and use device. The only thing I would consider putting a valve in is my boat motor. That plug is impossible to get to and I have to vacuum the oil out through the dipstick in order to change it. KH >> I don't see why this would be more likely to fail than the drain plug. >> I've run one for over a year in a Chevy truck with no problems, & [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > http://rustysoffroad.com/media/fram/fram_suredrain_05.jpg "This is a failure waiting to happen if Fram Sure Drain is protruding like this image" Someone has a web site in which they have disassembled every major brands oil filters and revealed how these things are put together. ALso on that site are comments by former people who worked for Fram before being bought out by allied signal. If their "valve" is anything like what they have done to oil filters - RUN. |
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