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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 200598 Accord Transmission oil Drain Plug problem
Hi, I wanted to change the automatic transmission fluid in my 98 accord 6 cylinder. I felt the process pretty straight forward, drain with the drain plug open, fill through the ATF filler bold (6 cylinder models). The problem started when I tried to unscrew the ATF drain plug. This plug is soo tight that it refuses to budge at all. Did anyone have any problems removing this bolt ? I assume that the bolt is unscrewed anti-clockwise. I am feeling to believe that the bolt unscrews in clockwise motion.. is this a true assumption.. ? Since the ratchet is directly used to loosen the bolt, after a little struggle, the bolt head gave in and now the bolt head is deformed.. so disappointing to see that a simple ATF oil change can be so hard.. Any thoughts.. ? -- John It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. Your drain plug unscrews counter clockwise or to the left as you face the bolt. Generally it is better to take a hammer and rap the end of the wrench rather than muscle it off. That was the only way mine would come off. Didn't tighten it that much so now it will come off a lot easier. If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil pan removed to get at the bolt. Not pretty. I guess the worst would be a new oil pan - you will have to buy a gasket and a new drain plug as they come seperate. > It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. Your drain > plug unscrews counter clockwise or to the left as you face the bolt. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil > pan removed to get at the bolt. A garage will use an air chisel to rotate the rounded head until the bolt comes out. No big deal. OP should be using correct tools. Wonder what he used? Imperial socket?  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber it. Looked like a good ratchet. -- John. > I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the > company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber > it. Looked like a good ratchet. Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six- point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)? SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the >> company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber >> it. Looked like a good ratchet. > Yes, but what size *socket* did you put on the ratchet? And was it a six- > point (hex) or 12-point (starburst)? Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size or a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner? Did you use a proper metric socket size? If the points on the head are now rounded off, you need a special box wrench that exerts force on the flats of the hex head. Snap-on calls this special shaped box wrench Flank Drive, Craftsman, Headlock. If the wrenches are not long enough to provide adequate leverage, you might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if available) and using a breaker bar. nb >>> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think >>> the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Either should have worked, unless John used an SAE socket size That's what I wonder. Also, a 12-pointer is easier to strip. > or > a previous mechanic used an air wrench. Are you the orig owner? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > might consider getting these special patterns in a socket (if > available) and using a breaker bar. Good sharp air chisel will have even the roundest bolt spun out in no time. You can also MIG-weld a new bolt to the old one, and use the new one to attack the old. Works really well. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Good sharp air chisel will have even the roundest bolt spun out in no time. Even a cold chisel and ball-peen will do the trick. In fact, I'd prefer the non-air approach. More control. nb > >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the > >> company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > nb ----------------------------------- What are you guys talking about !!!!!!! The tranny drain plug is an INTERNAL 3/8" SQUARE FEMALE reciever, where you stick a ratchet handle, without using a socket. It sounds like he didn't have it 'bottomed' when he was torqueing on it, or the ratchet metal is cheap. I'd get a good T-handle, or ratchet and stick it in better (tapping it in if necessary), then whack the handle with a 2.5' piece of 4 x 4. I did it to my rear differential on my CR-V a few weeks ago and it went great. No, I don't have air tools :-) 'Curly' Curly is right, there are no sockets that I can use. I directly used the 3/8" ratchet into it. I thought I bottomed it, the bolt was soo hard that I had to hit with a hammer, the entire inner part pretty much got rounded with my hammering it. -- John. > Curly is right, there are no sockets that I can use. I directly used > the 3/8" ratchet into it. I thought I bottomed it, the bolt was soo > hard that I had to hit with a hammer, the entire inner part pretty much > got rounded with my hammering it. Again, the dealer can buzz that out quick with an air chisel. Might cost you $40 or so. Now that I'm aware that your plug is a hollow square, what probably happened here is that aluminum corrosion locked the bolt in place. This will occur if the bolt is never disturbed. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Again, the dealer can buzz that out quick with an air chisel. > Might cost you $40 or so. I can get it loose with a chisel and hammer. Done it often. >> >> I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I >> >> think the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > INTERNAL 3/8" SQUARE FEMALE reciever, where you stick a ratchet > handle, without using a socket. <emily-litella> Ohhhh....Never mind. </emily-litella> Why the hell didn't I pick up on that one? I change my manual tranny fluid every year. One of the plugs also has a 3/8" square hole. > It sounds like he didn't have it > 'bottomed' when he was torqueing on it, or the ratchet metal is cheap. Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in all the way. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in > all the way. It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench) before hitting. >> Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't >> go in all the way. > > It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally > secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench) > before hitting. My own tranny bolt is usually a very tight fit on the ratchet, and I remove that bolt once per year. It's got a skin of corrosion on it that prevents the ratchet's square from seating properly. As well, the spring-loaded ball in the square adds to the seating resistance, so you need to wiggle and push until it's on there properly. 15 years and I haven't stripped one yet. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ On 10/18/05 7:53 PM, in article aOg5f.17378$6e1.2124@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com, "Burt S." <BurtSquareman@none.com> wrote: >> Or the hole was filled with dirt/corrosion and the ratchet wouldn't go in >> all the way. > > It bottoms out but probably came out during hammering. I normally > secure the wrench or socket with a pipe (pushed onto the wrench) > before hitting. The drain bolt on the automatic usually takes some effort to break loose. On my Odyssey the simplest way to get it out was to stick an impact extension in the bolt hole to extend it out past the wheel, then use the 4 foot piece of gas pipe on the breaker bar. Piece of cake to get it out once you have the leverage. It will pop loose all at once then screw easily. Given the force it takes, I wouldn't think pounding on it would work very well. I have used a regular 3/8th inch rachet bought at Kragen's. I think the company name is something like powerglide or poweredge, don't remeber it. Looked like a good ratchet. -- John. > It is RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY LOOSIE unless for special apps. <SNIP> > If the bolt head is deformed, it may have to be drilled out or the oil > pan removed to get at the bolt. Not pretty. I guess the worst would > be a new oil pan - you will have to buy a gasket and a new drain plug > as they come seperate. ----------------------------- This is an automatic Honda tranny . . I expect there is no 'oil pan'. The threaded part is part of the tranny housing. Very bad, maybe :-( 'Curly' |
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