 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Honda Cars / November 2005what's the other sensor?
I got some good advice here about changing the water temperature sensor on my 89 Accord Lxi. While I was changing it, I broke the wire on the sensor right next to it, the one with the green connector. I was wondering what this sensor does, because it doesn't seem to have affected anything when the wire broke. > I got some good advice here about changing the water temperature sensor > on my 89 Accord Lxi. While I was changing it, I broke the wire on the > sensor right next to it, the one with the green connector. I was > wondering what this sensor does, because it doesn't seem to have > affected anything when the wire broke. one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. the ecu will run the engine without a sensor, but it'll be /way/ rich when warm. you should be able to see if the gauge is not working. either way, suggest fixing soonest. cut a replacement connector + some wire from a junk yard, then use crimp connectors to fix this to your existing wires. [use crimps not solder. solder fatigues, cracks and fails in a high vibration application like this.] > > I got some good advice here about changing the water temperature sensor > > on my 89 Accord Lxi. While I was changing it, I broke the wire on the [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > wire from a junk yard, then use crimp connectors to fix this to your > existing wires. That's funny. It looked like the gauge was working. But maybe it just hangs around the middle when it's not connected. I'll go and get a connector tomorrow. > one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. Unlikely. The other sensor is for the fan timer unit, a very essential sensor. <snip> > [use crimps not solder. solder fatigues, cracks and fails in a high > vibration application like this.] This is highly unlikely. Solder joints are one of the most reliable. The service manual even instructs how to solder correctly inside the engine bay. > > one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > The service manual even instructs how to solder correctly inside > the engine bay. I was figuring I would solder it back together. I solder a lot on other projects. I was just curious what the sensor was for, because if nothing changed then maybe that means that it was no good. But if it runs the fan I probably wouldn't notice it being disconnected because I was driving on the highway. Anyway, I'll fix it today and the car will be working great now. Thanks again for everybody's help. You guys are terrific. >>>one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > I was figuring I would solder it back together. I solder a lot on other > projects. again, you'll not see any solder joints on honda cabling, and that's for a reason. you won't see it on any aerospace apps either. /always/ use crimps in any application that is subect to vibration for the reasons stated before. > I was just curious what the sensor was for, because if > nothing changed then maybe that means that it was no good. But if it > runs the fan I probably wouldn't notice it being disconnected because I > was driving on the highway. there's a 3rd sensor [switch] for the fan. that's lower on the list of priorities. > Anyway, I'll fix it today and the car will be working great now. Thanks > again for everybody's help. You guys are terrific. > you'll not see any solder joints on honda cabling, and that's for > a reason. you won't see it on any aerospace apps either. /always/ use > crimps in any application that is subect to vibration for the reasons > stated before. I'll go to the junkyard and see what they have. Depending on how much wire I have to work with I'll come up with a good way to put it together. I have crimps, solder, heat shrink, tape, whatever. > >>>one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. > >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > crimps in any application that is subect to vibration for the reasons > stated before. I strongly advocate crimping over soldering which lacks none of the disadvantages of soldering except when the proper tools and connectors are not used. But to say that solder fatigues, cracks and fails in a high vibration, is inaccurate. Soldering creates a single failure point by turning multistranded wire into a single strand at the solder joint. If you solder the wire you stiffen it at the point where it meets the solder. The REAL proper way to solder wire is outline in a simple drawing the service manual. Novices shouldn't attempt wire soldering without this info. You will also note various solder joints are employed in shock and vibration environments. A few examples are inside the alternator and starter solenoid. The alternator has eight rectifiers with 16 solder joints expose to road salts oils, ozones, you name it. The alternator has two flexible copper braids soldered and tethered to the brushes which are constantly exposed to vibrations, if not flexes. The solenoid has two joints soldered to a copper thin lead exposed to serious shocks. These parts can last up to 350k miles or more and rebuilt consecutively. > > I was just curious what the sensor was for, because if > > nothing changed then maybe that means that it was no good. But if it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > there's a 3rd sensor [switch] for the fan. that's lower on the list of > priorities. I strongly disagree as an advocate for reliability in the automotive field for the past many years. I have encountered many head failure resulting from the neglect of the third sensor. The failure rate on these head were extremely high on vehicles that didn't equip them based on the current 2.2-liter aluminum head designs. Again, this is one of the most essential silent killer. > one is the sensor for the ecu, the other is the sender for the gauge. > the ecu will run the engine without a sensor, but it'll be /way/ rich > when warm. is the OP the poster with the cold start prob? or was it a warm start prob? if its burning gobs of fuel when warm, that could be a problem. > is the OP the poster with the cold start prob? or was it a warm start > prob? if its burning gobs of fuel when warm, that could be a problem. I was the guy with the cold start problem and the transmission that stayed in first when stone cold. I replaced the water temp sensor as suggested and all running and starting problems have disappeared. Now I have to fix the wire on the other sensor, because apparently it has something to do with the fan. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.