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Car Forum / Honda Cars / December 2005They want to turn my rotors
Hi, My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to check the brake pads when they were changing oil. They found (and showed me) about 10% remaining on the RF and 40% on the LF. Rears were fine. They suggested replacing the pads and TURNING the ROTORS. They say that one ALWAYS wants the rotors resurfaced and that they don't charge any more whether or not that's done along with pad replacement. I go to this place because they've demonstrated their honesty to me on several occasions. I know this question has been asked and answered before, but I'm hoping for an up-to-the-minute opinion from you experts. 1 -- If the rotors do not appear scored, should they be resurfaced the first time the brakes are redone? 2 -- The car drives, handles, and brakes perfectly. Is there any reason for concern about the uneven wear of the front pads? Thanks very much. Ron > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to > check the brake pads when they were changing oil. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > resurfaced and that they don't charge any more whether or not that's > done along with pad replacement. I loathe this kind of reasoning. One does not "always" want the rotors resurfaced. Resurfacing reduces their thickness, which means heat dissipation is worse, and the life of the rotors is reduced. Seems like peopel have more problems, not less, after resurfacing rotors, as oppposed to leaving them be. One of the manual specifications for rotors is a certain minimum thickness. After reaching this thickness, the rotors have to be replaced. They're bringing rotors closer to this and so also shortening their lives. > I go to this place because they've > demonstrated their honesty to me on several occasions. > I know this question has been asked and answered before, but I'm > hoping for an up-to-the-minute opinion from you experts. > > 1 -- If the rotors do not appear scored, should they be resurfaced the > first time the brakes are redone? I don't know how much questioning you want to try to do of these guys, but if you think they'll talk honestly to you, ask them whether they checked the rotor thickness. If it's uneven, then that might be a reason to resurface the rotors. Similarly, if there are indications the rotors are warped, that might be a reason to resurface (or replace) as well. If they won't discuss something as simple as rotor thickness, go to another shop. You can google and I bet get a lot of good information from the internet on this as well. > 2 -- The car drives, handles, and brakes perfectly. Is there any > reason for concern about the uneven wear of the front pads? Could be a lot of things. A good brake system flush might solve it. It bears watching but I wouldn't fear for my safety in such a car at this point. Is the car steering okay? Are the tire pressures checked every two weeks, especially when the seasons change? Are the tires wearing evenly? Lots of little stuff to watch. Do not know if this is of any value, but does not some re-surfacing remove the glaze on the pads ? When I replace pads, I do not necessarily re-surface, but I do use a sandpaper pad and give the rotors a quick "quasi re-surface". Maybe not necessary at all, who knows. > Do not know if this is of any value, but does not some re-surfacing remove > the glaze on the pads ? How would resurfacing (rotors) have anything to do with glaze on the pads? Why would new pads have a glaze in the first place? IIRC that's something you avoid by breaking in the new pads properly. > When I replace pads, I do not necessarily > re-surface, but I do use a sandpaper pad and give the rotors a quick "quasi > re-surface". I've done the same for > 30 years. >> Do not know if this is of any value, but does not some re-surfacing >> remove the glaze on the pads ? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Why would new pads have a glaze in the first place? The newer pads are more prone to glazing than the compounds used earlier. > IIRC that's > something you avoid by breaking in the new pads properly. Pad break-in: http://www.kitcarbooks.com/brakepads.html  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>>Do not know if this is of any value, but does not some re-surfacing >>>remove the glaze on the pads ? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > The newer pads are more prone to glazing than the compounds used earlier. Okay, but the pads don't come out of the box already glazed. That happens after installation. >> My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service >center to [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > >Lots of little stuff to watch. It steers perfectly. The wheels have been balanced and rotated per the service manual. I don't check the pressures twice a month, but I've never found a difference of more than 1-2 psi between the two front tires. I think I do a pretty good job of keeping them about 2-3 psi over spec and equal to each other. Ron > I know this question has been asked and answered before, but I'm > hoping for an up-to-the-minute opinion from you experts. i wouldnt, and never have. they want to because it eliminates the *possibility* there might be some noise. if theyre using OEM honda brake pads, cleaning the stuff that needs to be cleaned, and doing an otherwise thorough job it shouldnt be an issue > 1 -- If the rotors do not appear scored, should they be resurfaced the > first time the brakes are redone? > > 2 -- The car drives, handles, and brakes perfectly. Is there any > reason for concern about the uneven wear of the front pads? not necessarily. most of the cars ive changed pads on dont wear completely evenly from one side to the other, or even from one side of the caliper to the other. > Thanks very much. > > Ron Milleron said: "They say that one ALWAYS wants the rotors resurfaced and that they don't charge any more whether or not that's done along with pad replacement. I go to this place because they've demonstrated their honesty to me on several occasions." Years ago went with a friend to drop off his BMW - needed rear brake pads. The Hans und Fritz act behind the service counter said something similiar - I unloaded on these crooks. Ended up replacing the rotors for my friend. You never ever turn a rotor unless it is hopelessly warped or grooved. These crooks at the stealers are doing harm when they do this. I have maintained several accords for something approaching 700K now - never had to have any rotors turned - on one occasion had to retorque the lug nuts because the apes in a tire place overtorqued the lug bolts and warped the rotors - retorquing them properly took most of the braking shimmy out. If this dealer or stealer as I call people like this are willing to pull this trick - beware - one of the fav stealer tricks is to cut CV boots - that is a pricey repair. When walking through dealerships I always keep a very tight grip on my wallet - have got a couple of the sales sharks to bite - tell them I always hold on to my waller in high crime areas. Yeah there are good dealers - know a couple of small town ones that are good people but find someplace else to work on your honda - no telling what tricks this crowd will pull. Oh would I like to have it out with these clowns. >Milleron said: >"They say that one ALWAYS wants the rotors [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >what tricks this crowd will pull. Oh would I like to have it out with >these clowns. This isn't a Honda dealer. I didn't want to mention any specific names, but it's a service center with the brand name of a tire over the door. Ron >This isn't a Honda dealer. I didn't want to mention any specific >names, but it's a service center with the brand name of a tire over >the door. > >Ron That's a bad sign. > This isn't a Honda dealer. I didn't want to mention any specific > names, but it's a service center with the brand name of a tire over > the door. i trust goodyear, penske, walmart, pepboys all the same, which is not at all. My first accord - an 80 now has over 300K on it - rusty as hell but the rotors on this puppy have never been turned. I would much rather spend my money on something beneficial to me - I really do hate crooks of any stripe. Guess the guy in the franchise muffler shops with the popeye arms and 18" channel locks that he uses to "test" your exhaust pipes is my fav sleeze ball. Used to live in Mpls - was a franchise muffler shop on Lake Street in S Mpls - still remember this neanderthal with the channel locks - have to stop in some of the muffler shops around S WI and see if they have a similiar critter testing pipes. > They found (and showed me) about 10% remaining on the RF and 40% on > the LF. Rears were fine. They suggested replacing the pads and > TURNING the ROTORS. They say that one ALWAYS wants the rotors > resurfaced and that they don't charge any more whether or not that's > done along with pad replacement. There may have been problems with your original pads/rotors (hi/lo spots, excessive gooving, etc). Did you ask for specific details? Since you pads were unevenly worn, it's likely your rotors are, also. You don't want to be putting new pads on unevenly worn rotors. Don't forget you're dealing with the brakes, your last line of defense between you and a hard place. Turning the rotors shouldn't cost that much. Do you really want to cut corners? nb notbod said: "There may have been problems with your original pads/rotors (hi/lo spots, excessive gooving, etc). Did you ask for specific details? Since you pads were unevenly worn, it's likely your rotors are, also. You don't want to be putting new pads on unevenly worn rotors. Don't forget you're dealing with the brakes, your last line of defense between you and a hard place. Turning the rotors shouldn't cost that much. Do you really want to cut corners? "{ It is rare that pads on the same rotor wear evenly and my left front pads seem to always wear out before the right side does. What are unevenly worn rotors - don't exist - grooved, warped or scored - no way could this happen on a vehicle with only 35K on it and rotors not dug into by worn out pads. Never ever turn rotors unless they have big problems - that is unless you are a chiseling dealer trying to lighten your customers wallets. >> They found (and showed me) about 10% remaining on the RF and 40% on >> the LF. Rears were fine. They suggested replacing the pads and [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >between you and a hard place. Turning the rotors shouldn't cost that >much. Do you really want to cut corners? I don't want to cut corners on my brake jobs but I don't want to screw up the rotors by resurfacing them either. Not resurfacing the rotors will not lead to any catastrophic brake failures. If the rotors are worn, scarred, corroded or severely warped, then replace them. If the pads are truly wearing unevenly, the place to start is by cleaning and inspecting the calipers and sliding surfaces. Usually just cleaning and lubricating them will solve the problem. Only exception is if the pistons are not moving freely in the cylinders. Then rebuilding/replacing the calipers is in order. >> They found (and showed me) about 10% remaining on the RF and 40% on >> the LF. Rears were fine. They suggested replacing the pads and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > spots, excessive gooving, etc). Did you ask for specific details? > Since you pads were unevenly worn, it's likely your rotors are, also. not necessarily, unless the rotors are being made out of aluminum these days. > You don't want to be putting new pads on unevenly worn rotors. Don't never heard that one before. > forget you're dealing with the brakes, your last line of defense > between you and a hard place. Turning the rotors shouldn't cost that > much. Do you really want to cut corners? think about the chiiiiiiildren! you might hit a baby! > nb > not necessarily agreed > unless the rotors are being made out of aluminum these > days. Are your brains made out of cotton balls? > never heard that one before. not my problem > think about the chiiiiiiildren! you might hit a baby! uhmm, yeah. You think that's funny? nb > On 2005-12-10, SoCalMike <Mikein562athotmail@hotmail.com> wrote: re notbob's claim that failing to turn rotors at every pad change is "cutting corners": > > think about the chiiiiiiildren! you might hit a baby! > > uhmm, yeah. You think that's funny? It's not funny, but it makes the point. I too think it's extremely misleading to assert that a failure to resurface rotors at every brake pad change is "cutting corners." The chances of a catastrophic failure /suddenly/ occuring because the rotors weren't turned after 35k miles is, ISTM, a heckuva lot less than something like driver inattention causing an accident. It's so small, in my estimation, that we may as well factor in the effects of turning the rotors at every brake pad change and so making them so thin that they don't dissipate heat correctly and warp prematurely. That too increases the chances of an accident. Elle Original owner, 1991 Civic, 172k miles, never had the rotors refinished. The thickness is well above spec. Runout and evenness are probably off. Brakes work fine. One rotor has a score on it. I brake a lot with the engine and otherwise see the brakes as "workhorses." dissenting opinion here -- Often on this NG, people vigorously defend Honda engineering and design and admonish posters to read the manual and follow factory recommendations for maintenance. When Honda manufactures a new car it uses new freshly turned rotors and new brake pads. The perfect brake job would be to replace everything to the way it was brand new, ie. new rotors for the new pads. Second choice would be to resurface the rotors so that they are as good as new. If you place a new pad on a new or freshly turned rotor you will notice that they will mate up with no preceivable gap (yes there will be a microscopic gap which will be largely gone in the first 400 miles of careful breakin time). By the time a pad is worn out the rotor will be both glazed and may be worn slightly. There will often be a preceivable gap between a new pad and a used rotor. The new pads have to wear first to conform to the high spots on the irregular surface of the used rotor. A new pad will slide easily over a glazed rotor but on a turned rotor it will feel as though it is sticking - in other words you can feel the friction (friction is a good thing when braking). I have put new pads on without turning the rotors and have not had a problem, but I am not fooling myself into thinking that this is a first class brake job or that the new pads are likely to last as long as the first ones did, or even that stopping power is fully 100% of what it was designed to be. It is unfair to call anyone a crook who is advising you to do a first class job and keeping your car up to the specs the engineers set for it. The cost of turning a rotor is not much, in fact the cost of a rotor is not much. Try to be aware of the difference between "good enough" and "perfect". Good shops want to stand behind their work - it's hard to do "good enough" work and stand behind it. is fully 100% of what it was > The cost of turning a rotor is not much, in fact the cost of a rotor > is not much. Try to be aware of the difference between "good enough" > and "perfect". Good shops want to stand behind their work - it's hard > to do "good enough" work and stand behind it. That's why when I have been told to turn the rotors, I have asked that they be replaced instead. Many mechanics balk at this suggestion, because it means more effort, though not much more time, from them, for a pretty low-cost part (actually cheaper than the pads, per wheel). --Gene > is fully 100% of what it was > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > --Gene if they have to come off to be turned anyway, they might as well be replaced. On car brake lathe Some rotors don't come off too easy SignatureStephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance ASE Undercar Specialist http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/ >> is fully 100% of what it was >>> The cost of turning a rotor is not much, in fact the cost of a rotor [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > if they have to come off to be turned anyway, they might as well be > replaced. > dissenting opinion here -- > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > rotors for the new pads. Second choice would be to resurface the rotors > so that they are as good as new. but al, the problem is, while that may be fine in theory, is that it's often /not/ done correctly and what may have been a perfectly centered disk is now machined nice and flat, but slightly off center. to get it correct, the disk surface where mounted needs to be perfectly clean and the disk chuck also needs to be perfectly flat & square. rust & wear can account for deviation sufficient to make what used to be a nicely centered disk an unusable pig. > If you place a new pad on a new or freshly turned rotor you will notice > that they will mate up with no preceivable gap (yes there will be a [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > first ones did, or even that stopping power is fully 100% of what it was > designed to be. a "first class brake job" is not the same thing to all people. i do "first class" on my own car, and that includes disk replacement and caliper strip-down & rebuilding. that's not what these shops are doing - they're simply doing what they think is "cya" and "one size fits all". > It is unfair to call anyone a crook who is advising you to do a first > class job and keeping your car up to the specs the engineers set for it. > The cost of turning a rotor is not much, in fact the cost of a rotor is > not much. Try to be aware of the difference between "good enough" and > "perfect". Good shops want to stand behind their work - it's hard to do > "good enough" work and stand behind it. if they were /really/ good, they'd know when to skim & not to skim. for instance, many brake juddering problems on a honda are actually incorrect lug nut torque procedure, but rather than ensure they train their techs accordingly, they do the detroit special and go into "if the brakes are juddering, skim the disks" mode. it shows they don't know what they're doing and aren't addressing the customer's needs. or were trained badly and still don't know what they're doing and aren't addressing the customer's needs. take your pick. > Elle > Original owner, 1991 Civic, 172k miles, never had the rotors > refinished. The thickness is well above spec. Runout and > evenness are probably off. Brakes work fine. One rotor has a > score on it. I brake a lot with the engine and otherwise see > the brakes as "workhorses." i brake with the brakes. 5 speed, 51k miles, original pads and shoes. id rather replace pads than clutches :) >> Elle >> Original owner, 1991 Civic, 172k miles, never had the rotors [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >i brake with the brakes. 5 speed, 51k miles, original pads and shoes. id >rather replace pads than clutches :) Engine braking with proper technique shouldn't put significant wear on the clutch. >> They found (and showed me) about 10% remaining on the RF and 40% on >> the LF. Rears were fine. They suggested replacing the pads and [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >nb I certainly don't want to cut corners. As I said, this place doesn't charge any more for including the rotor job, so it wasn't as though it was going to cost me any more. I saw the rotors. They looked fine to my untrained eye. I ask the question not because I wanted to save money or cut a corner but because I thought I recalled experts here advising against turning rotors just as a matter of course. Ron > advising against turning rotors just as a matter of course. Nonsense! Have 'em turned. nb > Hi, > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ron at only 35k, the /real/ probability of needing the rotors skimmed is between "slim" and "zero". only if there is a fault will this be necessary, and even then, i'd prefer replacement over skimming. if skimming is not done right, and in my experience it often isn't, it can introduce more problems than it is supposed to solve. if you're getting uneven wear, i'd check the caliper operation. if you're in the rust belt, it's possible that the calipers need servicing at this mileage, in which case, do it yourself. if you're not confident, sign up for an evening class at your local community college. otherwise, check out tegger's excellent "how-to" on his web site. for the time being, it's safe to replace the pads and keep driving until you've done your course. replace the pads yourself - it's /real/ easy if you follow the procedure in the book. >> Hi, >> My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >you've done your course. replace the pads yourself - it's /real/ easy >if you follow the procedure in the book. You're right. My brother's always done his own pad replacement, and he thinks that this DIY job can save an owner more money per hour of labor than any other single repair. Do you know if there would be more than one OEM type of pad for this Accord -- i.e., does Honda sell both metallic and nonmetallic Honda-brand pads? If so, which is better? Ron > Do you know if there would be more than one OEM type of pad for this > Accord -- i.e., does Honda sell both metallic and nonmetallic > Honda-brand pads? If so, which is better? Is there an Si or R version of your model? Ask your parts man. If there are sportier variants, they will have better pads. nb >>>Hi, >>>My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > Ron don't know, but you could ask around a dealership parts dept. personally though, having used many different types of pads over the years, honda oem are real hard to beat. they don't score the disk, they are relatively low dust, good fade resistance, good price. nothing not to love! one more thing; keep the front and rears matched. some vehicles use different materials in the front based on whether the rear is disk or drum. if you're drum, stick with a front pad material that matches it otherwise wet braking could be a little more interesting that anticipated. >>>>Hi, >>>>My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] >matches it otherwise wet braking could be a little more interesting that >anticipated. Thanks for that good advice. I'll just ask the dealer for whatever came on the car, then. Ron I just bought Bremo slotted / drilled rotors for my accord on and can not be happier still have not worked them hard (must break in first 200 miles) but I already feel less fade shorter stopping who want to lay on the ground for the stopping test? <snip> > Thanks for that good advice. I'll just ask the dealer for whatever > came on the car, then. No reason to buy from the dealer unless you want to, you can probably save some $$$ by buying the OEM pads on the 'Net from someone like San Leandro Honda, CheapHondaParts, HandA, etc. (people have noted good sites from time to time) SLHonda lists the front pad set at $40.50 http://slhonda.com/orderparts.jsp Anybody know any midwest based honda parts sources that also have good prices. Use a MA site now - closer would be better - am in Chi area. THanks > <snip> > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Leandro Honda, CheapHondaParts, HandA, etc. (people have noted good > sites from time to time) Whole pile of them here. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/online-parts.html > SLHonda lists the front pad set at $40.50 > > http://slhonda.com/orderparts.jsp SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ If it's aHonda Dealer, I would not be surprised. When I took my new 2004 Pilot into my Honda dealer for an oil change, they offered to "clean" the brakes for only $100 extra. The odometer read only about 8000 miles (and those were probably about 90 % highway miles, i.e., the brakes had not been used much). I told them "no thanks". I have heard similar stories from other Honda owners, where the dealer performs unnecessary service. Too bad because I think Honda makes great vehicles, but their dealers are out to take all the money they can get from the owners. Angus > Hi, > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ron > because I think Honda makes great vehicles, but their dealers are out to > take all the money they can get from the owners. with proper preventive maintenance, the dealer should never see you again. On 12/9/05 11:03 AM, in article 1rdjp1939rih79mku6405093ca95pm9f32@4ax.com, > Hi, > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ron Back when all the cars had drum brakes, the drums had to be turned every time the shoes were changed because they were always chewed up, warped, etc. Then they switched to disk brakes and the disks didn't show any wear at all if the pads were changed before they completely wore out. The brake shops, as a matter of course, did their best to convince owners that the disks had to be turned as a matter of course because the drums always had to be. For some unknown reason, this still seems to be going on. The official Honda answer (page 19-13 of the '00 TL FSM) is that the rotors should be inspected for damage and cracks, cleaned thoroughly, then measured for runout. They should be resurfaced on the car if the runout is out of spec, replaced if the thickness drops below spec after resurfacing. If the runout is in spec, they should not be turned, it just shortens their useful life. Personally, I've been driving cars and light trucks with disk brakes since 1972 and have yet to ever have (or need to have) a rotor resurfaced. > Personally, I've been driving cars and light trucks with disk brakes since > 1972 and have yet to ever have (or need to have) a rotor resurfaced. same here. and th eonly pair i replaced was on a VW rabbit- the kind that fell off when the caliper was off. replaced em cause i felt like it... and they were $15/ea. ASE standards is right up with your opinions. I appreciate all your inputs, but I stand at the other end of the job. I didn't use to turn rotors unless there was a pulsation, but now I always turn rotors unless they are at the min spec. I view rotors as a wear item, and the prices have come down on them quite a bit in the last few years, but the prices of pads are going up... hmmmm I only get paid to do the job once, and doing everything possible to prevent a customer form coming back with a complaint is critical to our business. It amazes me to stand at a lathe and watch a rotor that had no pulsation take 2 cycles on the lath to straighten itself out. I've seen cars with one hell of a pulsation clean up in one cut and others with no pulsation take three to clean up. Cleaning up a rotor usually only takes off .006 thousandths off the rotor. Hardly anything in the life of the rotor. I want you to leave with the highest quality job you can get from me, with no problems. So from a shops point of view it's about quality and warranty. If you choose to not have the rotors turned and insist on this, then the work order may read something along the lines of "shop not responsible for any squeak, squeal, or pulsation that may occur" OH BTW I passed the L1 Test. SignatureStephen W. Hansen ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance ASE Undercar Specialist http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/ > Hi, > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ron > I didn't use to turn rotors unless there was a pulsation, but now I always > turn rotors unless they are at the min spec. I view rotors as a wear item, > and the prices have come down on them quite a bit in the last few years, but > the prices of pads are going up... hmmmm I checked around and see new OEM rotors at Majestic and slhonda going for about $50 each for a 91 Civic. Ebay seems to have some deals, though and might be worth checking. OEM pads go for about $40 each. > I only get paid to do the job once, and doing everything possible to prevent > a customer form coming back with a complaint is critical to our business. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Cleaning up a rotor usually only takes off .006 thousandths off the rotor. > Hardly anything in the life of the rotor. I see a Larry Carley article supports your data, stating that a cut of 0.002 inch is the min required; 0.008 inch is the max that should be taken off. (I know you're certified and all and have more experience doing brakes; I am mostly posting for the archives and to be complete.) To add some perspective: A 91 Civic sedan's rotors start at 0.83 inch thickness and have a min spec of 0.75 inch. So with about 0.006 inch coming off at each resurfacing, figure at most 13 resurfacings before the min spec is reached. (Wear by itself on my never-resurfaced rotors had their thickness down about 0.02 inch, to 0.81 inch thickness, after 150k miles.) I would think brake pads wouldn't need to be replaced more than 10 times in the life of a Honda, using OEM pads. Plus, I expect most Honda owners do not keep their Hondas beyond 200k miles. That's maybe four brake pad changes. Assuming the car exhibits no serious brake problems, and that the resurfacing is free like the original poster said, I suppose then I'd consider resurfacing the rotors at every brake pad replacement. But as a DIY-er who feels she has a pretty good handle on brake operation, and who has no tools for turning a rotor, I'm inclined to leave my rotors be until I see evidence of, say, deep scoring or serious warpage. OTOH, if anyone knows where OEM rotors may be had for under $25 each, or can suggest non-OEM rotors, then I'll hear you out. I might like to put those on my car come summer. snip but all comments noted >>I didn't use to turn rotors unless there was a pulsation, > [quoted text clipped - 74 lines] > > snip but all comments noted but none of this addresses the *fact* that rotors are often poorly skimmed so that they are no longer exactly planar with the wheel. that leads to braking problems - something much worse than the skimming process is supposed to cure. What a bunch of wacky responses!! The real answer is that resurfacing the rotots IS standard and customary for a proper repair. Having a fresh surface lets the new pads bed in properly. Do you HAVE to do it? Welll no. and I dont do it all the time either. I would be suspicious of a shop that DIDNT say that. -SP > Hi, > My '03 Accord EX has 35K mi., so I asked my local service center to [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Ron > What a bunch of wacky responses!! > > The real answer is that resurfacing the rotots IS standard and customary > for a proper repair. >There sure is a LOT of misinformation spread about Hondas and cars in >general. You got that right. > What a bunch of wacky responses!! > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > I would be suspicious of a shop that DIDNT say that. betcha the "quickee $59.95/axle " shops dont bother. then again, they probably dont clean anything and use the cheapest brake pads available. > What a bunch of wacky responses!! > > The real answer is that resurfacing the rotots IS standard and customary > for a proper repair. Honda specifies it, anyway. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/misc/x00-088e.pdf > Having a fresh surface lets the new pads bed in > properly. A fresh surface can also help prevent glazing after a pad change. I've found simply hand-sanding the discs with 50-grit emery cloth does almost as well, but you have to be very even with your sanding (no power tools!), and it's hard work. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I've found simply hand-sanding the discs with 50-grit emery cloth does > almost as well, but you have to be very even with your sanding (no power > tools!), and it's hard work. mechanics dont get paid to do stuff over, so theyre more apt to eliminate every single possibility of a call-back. that means turning the rotors, using NAPA quality pads, anti-squeal, etc. >> I've found simply hand-sanding the discs with 50-grit emery cloth >> does almost as well, but you have to be very even with your sanding [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > eliminate every single possibility of a call-back. that means turning > the rotors, using NAPA quality pads, anti-squeal, etc. Yep. I used to think turning rotors was a bad idea, but I've changed my mind. And home mechanics don't have brake lathes, do have time, and aren't likely to yell at themselves if things don't work perfectly. Hence my sandpaper suggestion. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ On 12/19/05 8:16 PM, in article Xns9731D89819F4Dtegger@207.14.113.17, > ... aren't likely > to yell at themselves if things don't work perfectly. Not so sure I agree with that last assertion... > On 12/19/05 8:16 PM, in article Xns9731D89819F4Dtegger@207.14.113.17, > >> ... aren't likely >> to yell at themselves if things don't work perfectly. > > Not so sure I agree with that last assertion... On second reading... At the time I was thinking peple would be more likely to blame the part than themselves. :) SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > What a bunch of wacky responses!! > > The real answer is that resurfacing the rotots IS standard and customary Anyone else instinctively reach for /lube/ when you hear the phrase "standard and customary"? |
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