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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 2006Who has done their own timing belt change...
Re: Accord, 2000, V6, vtec. This job looks to be pretty big and complex. Obviously one should also do the water pump once inside there too. Does the Honda service and repair manual do a good job in outlining this job? I've done timing chains on big American V8's, but I think thats a much easier job? Where can I get the official Honda service and repair manual? All I see on ebay is Chilton material. Bob On 12/26/05 10:12 AM, in article 1135613563.086809.90130@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com, "bob" <blackbuzzard@hotmail.com> wrote: > Re: Accord, 2000, V6, vtec. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Bob Honda FSM is available from www.helminc.com Bob, I would strongly recommend you replace all idler and tensioner pullies while your in there. I had an idler lock up and take out the timing belt on my Mazda V6 at 170,000 miles. No warning noises at all and I was out of town. It felt great 35,000 miles earlier. Fortunately for me it was a non-interference engine. Your Honda is not. If you Google this issue you will find the experts say most of these idlers / tensioners are not designed to always make it to the 200,000 mile mark. Good Luck. > Re: Accord, 2000, V6, vtec. > > This job looks to be pretty big and complex. Obviously one should also > do the water pump once inside there too. Does the Honda service and > repair manual do a good job in outlining this job? IMO, Chilton's does a good job of /outlining/ it for my 1991 Civic, for one. I am not betting the Helm (factory service) manual is better, though some here will say this is sacrilege. I base this on comparisons of some free online factory service manuals with the corresponding Chilton's manuals for certain 1990s Hondas. There are several sites that discuss Honda timing belt changes for 1990s Hondas. They of course won't match exactly your 2000 Honda's needs. But I think they'll be close; some very close. You might want to peruse the free online manual for the 1995 Accord V6 at www.autozone.com 's repair guides. It's pretty detailed. The big hurdle most likely will be freeing the crankshaft pulley bolt. From www.slhonda.com 's online parts site, yours is a 16 mm nominal diameter bolt, with threads that are a lower pitch than even the standard fine threads. When re-installing it, I bet the manual calls for about 180 ft-lbs of torque, 'cause that's the spec for the 16 mm crankshaft pulley bolt on 94-95 Accords. Problem is, some phenomenon causes these bolts to become obscenely tight--over 300 ft-lbs is often reported to be necessary to free them. Compare this to my 91 Civic's, which is only 14 mm nominal diameter and requires only 119 ft-lbs of torque upon re-installation. It takes some fancy tricks to get off. This is amply treated on several homemade sites lately. Try skimming the following, then picking out what suits you best: http://www.marklamond.co.uk/howto/engine/timing-belt/timing- belt.htm (dual overhead cam photos, but otherwise appears to be under construction) http://timingbelt.soben.com/ (Dual overhead cam. The author mentions how his Helm manual didn't have all the steps in it at this site.) http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html (search for timing belt questions at this site, then follow links) http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html Online manuals that might help: www.autozone.com http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html I used several sites (including one online manual) and this newsgroup the first time I took off my 91 Civic's timing belt. I actually freed the pulley bolt one weekend, just to see if it was worth trying to go further. I was successful. I put all back together and resumed driving the car for a few days, then went at the whole job. That worked well. > I've done timing chains on big American V8's, but I think thats a much > easier job? > > Where can I get the official Honda service and repair manual? www.helminc.com , I believe. Updates are welcome. Hondas less than about five years old don't have many reports here, re timing belt changes. www.helminc.com sells the official manual for a number of makes.But in general Haynes (or Chilton) I find adequate as they are geared toward the backyard mechanics. Haynes are easier to find here because that's what Pep Boys carries. But sometimes this type of manuals tell you things that aren't specific to your model year. The web links provided by others here can point you to other versions of the official manual. That, together with the $15 Haynes, should be able to lead you through the procedure especially if you had done timing chains. So you probably don't need the Honda manual. Here is another good link from Honda Tuning: http://hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0406ht_timing/ Also, http://www.powerbuilttools.com/import.html#648796 Buy a Gates Timing Component Kit with idlers included. It also comes with installatin instruction (furnished by Auto Data) and can save you money as you would (and should) be replacing the idlers -- plus the water pump, oil seals, all other belts and the auto tensioner pulley (just the $25 pulley and not the whole assembly $70? because there is a bearing too). http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=2256&location_id=3487 If your year's engine turns clockwise, then you should have less problem with the crank pulley bolt. Do use long breaker bars for the holding tool and the socket and wear all safety gears while applying the force needed to break it loose. It's been reported a 4 ft cheater pipe with the pivot supported by jack or jackstand helps. The water pump can leak and can rust the idler bolt to the engine block even if you do regular maintenance as specified (so don't wait till 105K, do the timing belt at 60K!) and be careful with it. But don't just leave the idler in there as any old idler can fail soon after a timing belt change (usually < 20-30K miles). The OEM Yotec/Yamada water pump sucks. I'd get an Airtex which is usually a rebox of NPW pump from Japan. Get a hook type oil seal puller or be careful using a tape-wrapped screwdriver. Don't scratch the crank or it'll leak. Make sure you torque everything down to spec. A good torque wrench like the readily available Craftsman on sale is always a good investment. You should do the valve adjustment while you are at it. FelPro valve cover gasket set is always convenient. Have you replaced the coolant hoses yet? > Re: Accord, 2000, V6, vtec. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Bob Yea every one else has pretty much covered it.I wasted no time and went strait to the local lowe's store and rented a 500 ftlb. of torque 3/4 in. drive electric impact wrench. for the nasty bottom bolt.It was only eleven dollars for the day.There is a cover behind the drivers wheel,removed it. I also removed the power steering line to give me more room. 17mm crank bolt.Most others bolts you will be removing are 10,12,or 14mm heads. It's best if you align your timing marks before you remove the belt.I done mine with out a manual,just looked a few things up on here.Um,loosen your alternator.power steering,and the adjusting pulley for ur a/c if you have it.You will have to remove the motor mount on the side of the body and the one that bolts between it and the block. >Yea every one else has pretty much covered it.I wasted no time and went >strait to the local lowe's store and rented a 500 ftlb. of torque 3/4 >in. drive electric impact wrench. for the nasty bottom bolt.It was only >eleven dollars for the day.There is a cover behind the drivers >wheel,removed it. I also removed the power steering line to give me >more room. When you rented the impact wrench, did it come with the socket you needed? I may be doing this soon to a 1988 Honda Accord and I wanted to find a quick way to get that bolt loose. Last year when I did a 1996 TL 2.5, it turned into a big expensive headache. I did learn how to do the job without any special tools. I also found out that all the local Acura dealers are a bunch of pricks who wouldn't sell me the tool needed to do the job properly. ------------- Alex > bcastle24@yahoo.com says... > >Yea every one else has pretty much covered it.I wasted no time and went [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > special tools. I also found out that all the local Acura dealers are a bunch > of pricks who wouldn't sell me the tool needed to do the job properly. You sure they have it? I thought the dealer shops tended to just use a serious impact wrench. From my memory of past searches for these pulley holding tools, the tool for the 1988 Accord should be available online, possibly for as little as $25 and as high as $75. Post if you want pointers to sites that sell it. I loosened the crankshaft pulley bolt on an old Toyota 4cyclinder truck by using the starter motor for the torque. Using the socket wrench, and cheater pipe, I firmly lodged these tools onto the pully bolt and braced wrench handle/pipe against the floor. Then just bump the starter (make sure the engine does not start!). Worked perfectly! I did this in the days before I had an air wrench ( would your basic 3/8in air wrench break the pully bolt loose on a Honda 2000 V6?) Once rotation directions are verified for sure, this should work on Honda motors too I should think. Be carefull if you try this......I have NOT done this on a Honda and plan to use my air wrench or make the pulley holding tool instead when the time comes. Bob >I loosened the crankshaft pulley bolt on an old Toyota 4cyclinder >truck by using the starter motor for the torque. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >have NOT done this on a Honda and plan to use my air wrench or make the >pulley holding tool instead when the time comes. Unfortunately Honda motors turn counter clockwise, so the starter trick won't work. This past weekend I started changing the timing belt on a 1988 Honda Accord LX. I used the same method to loosen this bolt as I did on the Acura tl 2.5. I cut the old alternator belt so that I could wrap it around the crankshaft pulley. I used some scotch tape to hold it in place. I then wraped the pulley with a nylon webbed tie down strap I had. I left slack in a few of the loops that went around the pulley. Then I stuck a breaker bar in the slack end and twisted it tight and left the long end of the breaker bar pointing in the direct that the bolts turn. This is important. As you turn the bolt the tie downs grip on the pulley gets tighter. If you get the direction wrong, it will just slip. I slid a cheater bar on the breaker bar so that it would wedge onto a sturdy suspension component. I then used my 25" breaker bar to loosen the bolt. The Accord bolt was much easier than the TL bolt. I loosened the Accord bolt by myself. The TL bolt required two of us and another cheater bar yanking on it quite hard to loosen it. ---------------- Alex > Re: Accord, 2000, V6, vtec. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Bob if you get the helm service manual and follow instruction, particularly with regard to re-tensioning the belts afterwards, you'll be fine. space on the v6 is cramped, but take your time & you'll be fine. loosening the lower pulley bolt is the hardest part. get the tool for this and you'll not lose any sweat - the job will still come in significantly cheaper than sending it to the shop. take it to a shop and let them break the bolt loose for a few bucks... nominally tighten it to drive home Mark |
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