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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 200692 honda accord
I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts off.I can be driving just fine down the road and it just cuts off after getting warmed up of after about 8 miles or so.After that it won't start back up until I let it sit for awhile ( and hour or so) and cool down I have been told alot of things that it could be but no one is exactly for sure on any of those. Does anybody have any suggestions? > I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts off.I can be > driving just fine down the road and it just cuts off after getting warmed > up of after about 8 miles or so.After that it won't start back up until I > let it sit for awhile ( and hour or so) and cool down I have been told > alot of things that it could be but no one is exactly for sure on any of > those. Does anybody have any suggestions? This is the classic symptom of famous cold solder joint on the main relay problem. Andrew > I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts off.I can be > driving just fine down the road and it just cuts off after getting warmed > up of after about 8 miles or so.After that it won't start back up until I > let it sit for awhile ( and hour or so) and cool down I have been told > alot of things that it could be but no one is exactly for sure on any of > those. Does anybody have any suggestions? Sounds like the igniter. The Main Relay does not cause this problem.  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ From my reading and experience, this is the classic symptom of a bad ignition coil. As they age and and near death, they get very persnickety with temperature cycles, like the one you describe below. There are a few checks you can do of the coil. See www.autozone.com 's free online manuals for your car. Igniters tend to fail all or nothing. Main relays don't cause shutdown while running. www.tegger.com/hondafaq also has some checks you can do of the coil, under running/starting problems. Or word search for "coil." > I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts off.I can be > driving just fine down the road and it just cuts off after getting warmed > up of after about 8 miles or so.After that it won't start back up until I > let it sit for awhile ( and hour or so) and cool down I have been told > alot of things that it could be but no one is exactly for sure on any of > those. Does anybody have any suggestions? > From my reading and experience, this is the classic symptom > of a bad ignition coil. As they age and and near death, they [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Main relays don't cause shutdown while running. The main relay on my 1993 Accord sure did cause my car to stop running. I was typically able to restart it in a few attempts after coasting to the side of the road. The problem went away after my mechanic resoldered the main relay. The problem more commonly manifested itself as the inablilty to start the hot car after stopping for a few minutes. Andrew > www.tegger.com/hondafaq also has some checks you can do of > the coil, under running/starting problems. Or word search > for "coil." >> I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts > off.I can be [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > sure on any of >> those. Does anybody have any suggestions? SignatureAndrew Olechny | s/nats/gatech/g | Atlanta, Ga USA > Elle <honda.lioness@earthlink.net> wrote: > > From my reading and experience, this is the classic symptom [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > problem more commonly manifested itself as the inablilty to > start the hot car after stopping for a few minutes. Noted, though my 91 Civic's main relay never failed while I drove the car. For a few months, I put up with the "non-start after driving a hot car and stopping for a few minutes" deal. A new main relay fixed it right up. (Though re-soldering is said to be just as effective.) Tegger's site (which often, but not always, denotes some group consensus) notes: "Once the car does start and run, the relay seems to be able to maintain the connection even with cracked solder, and keep the car running. I'm not sure why." Yours may have been a perfectly probablistic exception, though. >> Main relays don't cause shutdown while running. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > problem more commonly manifested itself as the inablilty to > start the hot car after stopping for a few minutes. That's decidedly rare. Usually keeps working once the car's running. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > From my reading and experience, this is the classic symptom > of a bad ignition coil. As they age and and near death, they > get very persnickety with temperature cycles, like the one > you describe below. Could be the coil too. How to check: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#bad A "dwell meter" is also known as an "engine analyzer". Availaible everywhere. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Could be the coil too. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > A "dwell meter" is also known as an "engine analyzer". Availaible > everywhere. AFAIC, that helps. Said "engine analyzer" is available at Autozone for a digital version, $80. Available at Ebay, bidding is at $10 at the moment for a Sears Craftsman (older?) version that clearly has "dwell" noted on its dial knob. No idea what the quality of either of these is, but if the guts of this isn't much more sophisticated than a digital multimeter, I figure one can't go too wrong with a cheap engine analyzer. Looks like fun, too... >> Could be the coil too. >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > digital multimeter, I figure one can't go too wrong with a > cheap engine analyzer. Looks like fun, too... They were more common in the latter days of points-and-condenser ignition. Once you preset your points gap to .018", you then fine-tuned it by checking the dwell angle (hence the name "dwell meter"). You might have to close the gap up a touch or widen it to make sure the coil was getting properly saturated. I fried two cheap dwell meters in 1981. At that same time, I was also unable to determine why I was suffering severe points burning in addition to the dwell meter failures (but didn't then know the two were related). It seems the aftermarket coil that was on the car when I bought it had been installed upside-down. IOW, the + and - terminals had been swapped. Easily done, since the terminals were not marked! The garage only discovered it when they put the car on an oscilloscope as a last resort, and saw that the sine wave was upside-down. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ On 1/9/06 1:10 PM, in article 3dce9a39adc2e89133e2c38d304c9b9d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com, > I have a 1992 Honda Accord and when it gets warm it cuts off.I can be > driving just fine down the road and it just cuts off after getting warmed > up of after about 8 miles or so.After that it won't start back up until I > let it sit for awhile ( and hour or so) and cool down I have been told > alot of things that it could be but no one is exactly for sure on any of > those. Does anybody have any suggestions? This is exactly the symptom my '96 Odyssey exhibited when the ignition switch went bad. Except when the switch goes bad it usually does not have anything to do with the heat of the car... but rather with the jiggling of the ignition switch. We had that too... while driving. I logged it on the NHTSA site and included a link to a website where I and others had logged our experiences.... 6 or so months later there was a recall. :) SignatureKWW > On 1/9/06 1:10 PM, in article > 3dce9a39adc2e89133e2c38d304c9b9d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com, [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > This is exactly the symptom my '96 Odyssey exhibited when the ignition > switch went bad. On 1/11/06 5:45 AM, in article NYWdnXCF4edCclneRVn-pQ@comcast.com, "KWW" <kwalker@nospamaircooled.net> wrote: > Except when the switch goes bad it usually does not have anything to do with > the heat of the car... but rather with the jiggling of the ignition switch. > We had that too... while driving. I logged it on the NHTSA site and included > a link to a website where I and others had logged our experiences.... 6 or > so months later there was a recall. :) In my experience, when the switch went bad, it had to do with the heat of the switch, not anything else. As it got progressively worse, the stalls happened sooner and sooner until you couldn't get it from the street to the garage without a couple of waits and restarts. Jiggling the switch had absolutely no effect on it with mine. You had to wait for the contacts inside to cool down. Its easy to check - two little Phillips screws remove it from the back of the key cylinder, pop it open and look. Burned contacts are obvious when you see them. |
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