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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 200688 Honda Accord Alternator
How does one remove the alternator? Any helpful information would be great. The red idot light just started to show it's ugly head. --- Thanks Do you have a manual? If not, use the free online ones specific to the 88 Honda Accord at www.autozone.com . It has good drawings. Reports are often the only item needing replacement are the brushes. People here often recommend just replacing the brush assemblies and maybe the bearings, and there is plenty of support on the net for alternator problems tracing to simply the brushes. (I plan to do this pre-emptively within about a year, so I'm prepping.) Do you know where you're going to buy your parts? Elle Original and sole owner, 91 Civic, on its second alternator. > How does one remove the alternator? Any helpful information would be > great. The red idot light just started to show it's ugly head. --- > Thanks Thanks for your help. I did look up autozone for the manual and found not much information but do appreciate your trying. Do you have a good source for ordering the alternator? Ed > Do you have a manual? > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > head. --- > > Thanks > Thanks for your help. I did look up autozone for the manual and found > not much information but do appreciate your trying. Do you have a > good source for ordering the alternator? Here you go: http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/f8 /ff/0900823d800cf8ff.jsp Hey, Elle -- "Jinxed!" We posted around the very same time, same answer. Great minds think alike, huh? :) Remco > JustLearning wrote: > > Thanks for your help. I did look up autozone for the manual and found > > not much information but do appreciate your trying. Do you have a > > good source for ordering the alternator? > > Here you go: http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_ us/0900823d/80/0c/f8/ff/0900823d800cf8ff.jsp > Hey, Elle -- "Jinxed!" We posted around the very same time, same > answer. Great minds think alike, huh? :) Yes. Do you too hesitate to post links to specific Autozone.com manual pages?The Autozone site has some kind of warning on it about doing that, so I try to keep links like yours and mine to a minimum and/or try to give Autozone some of my business for Goop, Loc-Tite, PB Blaster, etc. Getting to their repair manuals, and of course the correct section, is a bit tricky. But it is truly free, and Autozone encourages people to take advantage of this resource. > Yes. Do you too hesitate to post links to specific > Autozone.com manual pages?The Autozone site has some kind of [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > section, is a bit tricky. But it is truly free, and Autozone > encourages people to take advantage of this resource. That long string looks too much like some sort of cache string on their server. It probably loses validity after the cashe refreshes in a day or two. In this case the OP seems to be on line when we both are so the string should be ok as long as he tries it soon. Yup - I do like autozone because you can find almost anything. Those on line tech manuals are hard to beat. Prices are pretty good too. While driving there, there's one place that I usually try first, just to pass them the business. It is one of the last mom and pop hold outs - smells like WD40 too :) Have been dealing with them since I was a kid so it is a solidarity thing. > Yup - I do like autozone because you can find almost anything. Those on > line tech manuals are hard to beat. Prices are pretty good too. > While driving there, there's one place that I usually try first, yup. i totally avoid kragen. id probably shop my local NAPA more if id just REMEMBER to. Thanks! You are very helpful. Got it! Thanks! You are very helpful. Got it! > Thanks for your help. I did look up autozone for the manual and found > not much information but do appreciate your trying. Do you have a > good source for ordering the alternator? In the Autozone free online Repair Guide for the 88 Accord you have to go to the following sections in order to get to the alternator removal etc. section: "Engine & Engine Overhaul," then "Engine Electrical," then "Alternator" See if the following link works: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds /en_us/0900823d/80/0c/f8/ff/0900823d800cf8ff.jsp#hd1-1-3 I suggest buying the brush and holder /assembly/ (not just the brush) from www.slhonda.com (California) or www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (Rhode Island), depending on where you live. I have purchased from both and think they're both good, price-, service-, and shipping-wise. People here say that buying the assembly makes life a lot easier I would consider replacing the bearings on such an old alternator, though I say that based only on general reading here at the newsgroup. > > Thanks for your help. I did look up autozone for the > manual and found [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > alternator, though I say that based only on general reading > here at the newsgroup. Jinxed again!! Wow, who'da thunk it!!! :) >Do you have a manual? > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >simply the brushes. (I plan to do this pre-emptively within >about a year, so I'm prepping.) The autozone instructions are helpful, but they recommend pulling the driveshaft out of the hub. It is not necessary if you undo the engine mount and jack the motor up a few inches. ------------ Alex > The autozone instructions are helpful, but they recommend pulling the > driveshaft out of the hub. It is not necessary if you undo the engine mount > and jack the motor up a few inches. Yes, I remember seeing your post and thinking what you did was pretty creative. I think I remove the equivalent motor mount, supporting the engine with a block of wood and jack under the oil pan, on my 91 Civic when doing timing belt and related work. Sounds intimidating to a newbie, or it did to me at the time, but it's actually very straightforward. Roar Lions, Roar! ;-) >Yes, I remember seeing your post and thinking what you did >was pretty creative. I think I remove the equivalent motor >mount, supporting the engine with a block of wood and jack >under the oil pan, on my 91 Civic when doing timing belt and >related work. Sounds intimidating to a newbie, or it did to >me at the time, but it's actually very straightforward. Thanks, but I can't take credit for the idea. I got that from someone else, I don't recall the web site at the moment. >Roar Lions, Roar! ;-) Thanks. ----------- Alex > >Do you have a manual? > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > and jack the motor up a few inches. > ------------ Clever trick! Thanks, Alex. > How does one remove the alternator? Any helpful information would be > great. The red idot light just started to show it's ugly head. --- > Thanks Go to autozone.com -- they have very clear repair manuals on line, free. It usually comes out from below. You may need to disconnect the driveshaft to get it out. Sometimes you can snake it through other ways. Thanks. I did go to Autozone but perhaps I missed the right place. Do you have a link to the right place there. I will try again now. Thanks Thanks to you all! The information was a great help. Got it! > How does one remove the alternator? Any helpful information would be > great. The red idot light just started to show it's ugly head. --- > Thanks sure the belt is tensioned correctly, and not sliping? This is an edited version of the instructions I posted on Jan 4. If you plan on doing this anytime soon, I can give you some tips. disconect the battery. Jack the car up and support it on jack stands. Be careful and follow the instruactions in your owners manual on how to properly support the car. The remove left front wheel and the splash guard. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, 12mm deep socket. The loosen the pivot bolt, 14mm. Then slide the alternator to get the belt off. Then remove the bolt that holds the admusting bolt in place, 12mm. There is a thick washer between the alternator bracket and the alternator, so expect it to fall when you pull this bolt. Then completely remove the pivot nut and push the pivot bolt out. The alternator will now be loose. Carefully pry it out of the lower mounting bracket. Then remove the two bolts, 14mm, holding the bracket to the engine. The bolt holes have two bushings in them. When I pulled mine, one bushing came out with the bracket and the other stayed attached to the engine. Don't lose the bushings. At this point only the wires are holding the alternator in place. A 10mm bolt holds a cable in place. You can then unplug the connector. You can use use a 8mm socket to remove the bracket that hold the wore harness to the alternator body. The alternator will not be free. Unfortunately there is no room to get it out through the top or bottom. Some manuals will suggest removing the drive shaft, but there is an easier way. You will need a jack and a block of wood. Put the block of wood on the oil pan and then bring the jack up till it touches the block of wood. Then remove the cruise control module, 2 10mm bolts, that mounts to the enging mount point on the left (drivers) side of the car. Then remove the bolts holding the mount to the body and the motor, 3 14mm bolts. Now rais the jack under the oil pan. The engine should go up about inches or so. Now you can maneuver the alternator out through the wheel well opening. Then go in reverse order to install everything. I did have one problem. The cover that goes over the brushes and voltage regulater was a tight fit around the plug area. I didn't realize this and put the alternator back in the car and tried to plug the plug in. It took me a while to give up and pull the alternator out to try to figure out the problem. A few minutes with a file took care of the problem. Hope this helps . ------------- Alex > nut and push the pivot bolt out. The alternator will now be loose. Carefully > pry it out of the lower mounting bracket. I just did this on my '87 civic si. Had the same prob, had to "pry" the alt out of the pivot/mounting bracket. And I do mean *PRY*! What's that all about? It was so tight took me 10 mins and a really *BIG* screwdriver. Can't imagine how they got it in without a mallet. I had to grind the pivot mount end (on alt) down to get it back in. WTF? Seems weird they would design bracket so alt must be removed before bracket bolts cand be accessed. Oh well. Fortunately, didn't have to raise engine to clear alt for removal past CV shafts. I only replaced brushes assy and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the help, gang! :) nb Hello, it is probably too late, but I found that I can snake the alternator down (87 Honda Accord) and out by pulling the left front (Driver Side)wheel "with driveline" forward just a small amount. Beats taking the axle out.  SignatureJoachim Sr. http://www.automotiveforums.com |
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