> Ah well, I stand corrected.
> Honestly, all my other cars had those automatic hood openers. All I
> had to do was press a button.
> I thought props were extinct.

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> What? No car I have ever personally encountered had its hood open by
> anything other than a lever and a cable. Then you have to raise it by hand.
> Some hoods do have gas struts like a rear hatch, which would tend to help
> you raise it.
> You must be used to higher-end (or large older) American cars.
Haha, yes - I was driving a 1999 Ford Taurus. I pressed a button, the
hood popped open. I lifted it up so slightly, and it would ease up the
rest of the way by itself and then stay open till I shut it. Even the
shut process was very smooth. That's just what I was used to.
Anyway, an update:
The fogging has gone away. I think indeed it was caused by the shampoo
job.
However, the BRAKE light problem still perplexes me.
As I wrote originally, the problem started yesterday morning. It
stayed on for approximately a third of my drive to work (15 minutes or
so, it was on). It didnt go on again in the evening when I drove home
from work and I thought all was solved.
But this morning, it was on Again! As soon as I started the car. This
time it went off after about 7 minutes. Then did not go on again for
the rest of the drive to work.
In both cases, it's been parked outside in the cold weather.
I am bringing it to the dealership tomorrow afternoon to have a second
look at it.
But in your opinion, is it possible at all that this is a cold-weather
sensor thing? I would think if it was really a brake problem, it would
have stayed on longer, and more frequently. And plus, the car wouldnt
have passed inspection the day before!
What do you think?
Seth - 17 Jan 2006 22:13 GMT
> However, the BRAKE light problem still perplexes me.
> As I wrote originally, the problem started yesterday morning. It
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> What do you think?
I would think the brake fluid first. Should only take a few minutes to
check if it is low or not. On my motorcycle I had a perplexing problem
where the "brake failure" light would come on flashing (indicating the ABS
was disabled). On my bike, most common cause for that is low battery. That
was not the case. If I drove the bike for 5 minutes, then reset the
ignition (shut it off then back on) the light would stay off. Stay off
until things cooled down (i.e. the brake fluid condensed back to a level
below the threshold). Topping off the fluid took care of it.
SoCalMike - 18 Jan 2006 05:02 GMT
>> What? No car I have ever personally encountered had its hood open by
>> anything other than a lever and a cable. Then you have to raise it by hand.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Haha, yes - I was driving a 1999 Ford Taurus. I pressed a button, the
> hood popped open.
im guessing a solenoid, like the rear trunk lock on some cars. nice,
until the day the battery is completely dead.
> I lifted it up so slightly, and it would ease up the
> rest of the way by itself and then stay open till I shut it. Even the
sounds like gas struts. relatively common.
> shut process was very smooth. That's just what I was used to.
E Meyer - 18 Jan 2006 14:40 GMT
On 1/17/06 8:59 AM, in article
1137509995.035128.121650@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com, "bella"
<positivethought1@gmail.com> wrote:
>> What? No car I have ever personally encountered had its hood open by
>> anything other than a lever and a cable. Then you have to raise it by hand.
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>
> What do you think?
The light does double duty - it indicates low fluid in the reservoir and
also indicates the parking brake is on. If your parking brake is not
properly adjusted, the light will sometimes come on because the handle
doesn't go all the way down when released.
How many clicks does it take to set the parking brake firmly enough to hold
the car in place (it should be about 5)?