Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2006
93 Honda Civic DX Vibrates/Stumbles on Accel.
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hockeymvp2001@yahoo.com - 29 Jan 2006 03:55 GMT Hello everyone,
After numerous hours of searching on google groups, I believe I have a better understanding on my car. My car has 127K, bought it with 118.
I bought the car this past August and here is what I have done to it. * Fuel filter * oil change every 3K * replaced both front hub bearings * New plugs, cap, plug wires. * Transmission Flush *** The last three were done in the last month.
Now for the problems.
1. After the car has sat overnight (8-9 hours) and I come out to start the car. I put the key in and the fuel pump comes on and then goes off like normal. I turn the car over and the car will continue cranking for about 5 to 6 seconds without starting, and if it does start, its very rough like its struggling for something, then finally runs and idles.
* When cold say 10F to 30F I may have crank the engine 2 or 3 times
before it starts.
Now here is what I do normaly now that the temps are starting to rise in the morning. I will turn the car over for about 5-6 seconds, then stop, then turn it over again and it starts right up. Any ideas here? I also get the smack sounds that hondas are known for when cold.
* After the car is started, mostly when cold. The engine idles rough like its going to quit, then I give it some gas. It will idle rough like this for a good min or 2. However after driven for say 5 min. I will turn off the car, and it will start right up again when I turn it over again, and the rough idle is gone. Any ideas?
2. The next problem is vibration ONLY when I depress the accelerator. In the morning though while the engine is still cold while im driving around there will be no vibration. * The vibration is right under 30mph. If i go past it or under it its fine.
Now accelerating onto the highway, The acceleration is rough, and once I get up to 55-65mph while depressing the accelerator slightly here and there to maintain speed, there is vibration. As I accelerate to about 70mph, the vibration subsides a small amount. Past 70 mph the vibration slowly comes back.
* The engine is at normal temp by now, and it seems that once at this temperature, is when the vibration starts. * Most important!! When the car is at normal temp. the vibration is felt from just under 30mph to 70mph.
Note, anytime I let off the accelerator and at any speed, the vibration will go away. Also I have a thinning rotor on the left front, could this be causing any of this? The dealer that sold me the car, said that the timing belt was changed at 94K, though I have not found record of it.
Lastly I have had this car for about 6 months now and and these symptoms have been the same, not getting worse, and maybe a bit better with the tune up. I wanted to make sure I have all the details in here.
Thanks everyone
Kevin.
Darryl - 29 Jan 2006 05:33 GMT I'm no a Honda expert, but it sounds like either your idle air system (which I won't discuss; I work on VW) or your O2 sensor (assuming you have one). I would disconnect the sensor and see how your car runs--assuming Hondas will run in a safety mode, idle and startup should be smooth. If not, perhaps a temperature switch? In fact, disregard this post and wait for a Honda expert. ;-).
>Hello everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 69 lines] > >Kevin. Darryl - 29 Jan 2006 05:35 GMT p.s., the vibration could be caused by anything related to the alignment (tie rod ends, etc.) or a bad tire--jack it up and look for flatspots or uneven wear patterns.
>I'm no a Honda expert, but it sounds like either your idle air system >(which I won't discuss; I work on VW) or your O2 sensor (assuming you [quoted text clipped - 76 lines] >> >>Kevin. jim beam - 29 Jan 2006 18:53 GMT > Hello everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 69 lines] > > Kevin. starting problem may be a leaky injector - run some cleaner through it. will probably help the acceleration issue too.
stumbling problem sounds like ignition. make sure the ignition components are CLEAN and in good order. consider a very light coating of electrical silicone grease inside the distributor cap.
hockeymvp2001@yahoo.com - 04 Feb 2006 17:27 GMT > starting problem may be a leaky injector - run some cleaner through it. > will probably help the acceleration issue too. > > stumbling problem sounds like ignition. make sure the ignition > components are CLEAN and in good order. consider a very light coating > of electrical silicone grease inside the distributor cap. Thank you for replying. One thing that has really gone downhill is my mpg. When I got the car in the summer I was getting 350 miles on a full tank. In the past two months I have slowly declined, and now im lucky if I make it to 250 on a full tank. I do mostly highway driving, that shouldnt make it worse?
Thank you everyone
Kevin
SoCalMike - 04 Feb 2006 17:57 GMT >> starting problem may be a leaky injector - run some cleaner through it. >> will probably help the acceleration issue too. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > if I make it to 250 on a full tank. I do mostly highway driving, that > shouldnt make it worse? where do you live? have you noticed the problem in the past?
reason im asking, is some states mandate "reformulated fuel" for the winter months. RF gives lower mileage, but less smog.
why smog is more important from nov-mar, rather than say in the middle of hot-n-smoggy july is beyond me.
Elle - 04 Feb 2006 18:04 GMT > One thing that has really gone downhill is my > mpg. When I got the car in the summer I was getting 350 miles on a full > tank. In the past two months I have slowly declined, and now im lucky > if I make it to 250 on a full tank. I do mostly highway driving, that > shouldnt make it worse? I see you did some maintenance on this car. I hope you used genuine Honda parts (not aftermarket ones), for the plugs, cap, and wires. Because they will make a difference, particularly in ensuring your ignition coil and igniter last a long time.
Getting back to your symptoms: Make sure you also have a new air filter. I also lean towards the oxygen sensor being bad on your car. Otherwise, here's a comprehensive list of items to do, all of which you should strongly consider doing, especially for a car this old, with an unknown past history:
http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id11.html
All the items listed at the site above are due every few years anyway, so it's not like you're throwing money away. What you're doing is /investing/ this money, with the added bonus that this tuneup may very well fix the engine stumbling problems.
You could have overlapping problems, so, say, adjusting the ignition timing and topping off and purging the cooling system of air are necessary for a full fix.
Your car's old but the miles on it are not bad. You should get several more years out of this car, assuming it hasn't been maintained too badly in the past.
On my list at the site above, you could start from cheapest to more expensive to replace/maintain/check on your car, checking whether there is improvement after each change. The last (= most expensive, but easy) item to do would be the oxygen sensor.
https://www.automedicsupply.com/ has fantastic prices on genuine Honda ( = OEM) oxygen sensors compared to your local dealer or other Honda online parts sites. $75 or so, tops, for a new sensor for your Honda. Autozone will loan you an oxygen sensor wrench, no charge.
Updates welcome.
Elle - 04 Feb 2006 18:10 GMT P.S. www.autozone.com has a free online repair manual for the 93 Civic. It gives the steps for a proper purge of air from the cooling system, for example. It may take 30 minutes or more for the cooling fan to come on twice during this procedure, so be patient. Ask if you can't find something at the autozone repair manual site.
Also, you mentioned a "thinning [brake] rotor" earlier. Do the symptoms you gave earlier occur regardless of whether you are braking or not? (They sound like they do.) If so, I'd eliminate the rotor for now, and assume, for now, it's an engine-related problem.
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