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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2006location of idle adusting screw and idel specificaition - 98 honda civic 1.5 L
I can seem to locate the idle adjusting screw on a 2 door honda civic coupe, 98 with a 1.5 L engine. can someone help me? also do you know the idle specification? mahalo. > I can seem to locate the idle adjusting screw on a 2 door honda civic coupe, > 98 with a 1.5 L engine. can someone help me? also do you know the idle > specification? mahalo. before we tell you, what reason do you have to adjust it? the idle is automatically controlled by the car's engine management computer, so if you have a problem, it's generally /not/ a simple matter of adjusting the idle screw. describe your symptoms and the car's history. >> I can seem to locate the idle adjusting screw on a 2 door honda civic >> coupe, 98 with a 1.5 L engine. can someone help me? also do you [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > adjusting the idle screw. describe your symptoms and the car's > history. Ditto.  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> I can seem to locate the idle adjusting screw on a 2 door honda civic >>> coupe, 98 with a 1.5 L engine. can someone help me? also do you [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Ditto. yup. playing with it is only going to mask the real problem and make it that much harder to diagnose. My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then before. the service light no longer comes on. i check the timing and its okay. the idle seemed on the low side. but we do not know what it should be. i have a tech. but even if i find its low, how can i adjust the idle? where is the idle screw? >>>> I can seem to locate the idle adjusting screw on a 2 door honda civic >>>> coupe, 98 with a 1.5 L engine. can someone help me? also do you [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > yup. playing with it is only going to mask the real problem and make it > that much harder to diagnose. > My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code > revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a > problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then before. the > service light no longer comes on. its been almost 2 years, but when i got the code on my 98 civic, i think it said primary O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction, or something like that. the engine was running rough and stalling at stop signs, 2 things it had NEVER done before. the helm manual told me the primary was the one in the exhaust manifold, and gave me the spec for the black heater wires. the ohmmeter read 0, meaning it was a broken/open circuit. doublechecked on the secondary/bottom O2 sensor on the catalyst. got a reading within spec. doublechecked the top one. still nothing. so i replaced the one screwed into the manifold, and everythings been great since. dealer price was about $220 for it. kragen and autozone were both out of stock on aftermarket ones, and i forgot to try NAPA. didnt want to wait to order one online from majestic, but i DID want OEM. i sure hope you replaced the right one. > the helm manual told me the primary was the one in the exhaust > manifold, The primary is ALWAYS the one BEFORE the last cat. The secondary is the one AFTER the last cat. I say "last cat" because some cars have a pre-cat upstream of the regular one. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is the specified idle speed. can someone tell me..aloha. >> the helm manual told me the primary was the one in the exhaust >> manifold, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I say "last cat" because some cars have a pre-cat upstream of the regular > one. > no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is the > specified idle speed. can someone tell me..aloha. i think were kinda hinting that you MAY have replaced the WRONG O2 sensor. replacing the CORRECT one (primary, in the manifold) would solve the problem and avoid the "ethnic engineering" youre proposing. > no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is the > specified idle speed. can someone tell me..aloha. dude, for the last time, idle speed adjuster screw is NOT your problem!!! fix the cause. buy the helm manual if you don't want to hear what we have to say. >>>the helm manual told me the primary was the one in the exhaust >>>manifold, [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >>I say "last cat" because some cars have a pre-cat upstream of the regular >>one. > no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is > the specified idle speed. can someone tell me. What's your current idle speed? SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is >> the specified idle speed. can someone tell me. > > What's your current idle speed? > > he probably doesnt know for sure, since its stuttering and stalling at idle because the PRIMARY O2 sensor is bad well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we changed the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor and check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my brother if he want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the aftermarket bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley. >>> no one has told me where is the idle screw on the 98 civic and how is >>> the specified idle speed. can someone tell me. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> he probably doesnt know for sure, since its stuttering and stalling at > idle because the PRIMARY O2 sensor is bad Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the code indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the fault of the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do more checking, first. Can you describe a little more exactly what you mean by "rough"? After the car is warmed up, what is the idle RPM? When it's cold and in the process of warming up, what is its RPM? When cruising at steady speed, does the engine sound odd? How old are the ignition wires (miles and years), anyway? A resistance check is not enough. Are they OEM wires? Has the ignition timing been checked recently? Fuel filter and air filter? What is the coolant level, and has the coolant system been serviced recently? What brand plugs are you using? The distributor cap is due for a full replacement every few years. Distributor rotors last longer but those are also due every so often. Cleaning would not be enough for me. Try the ignition wire check Tegger describes at http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html , where you let the car idle and spray with water the ignition wires. Check other items he discusses at this site. These are all basic tune-up items that are due within a few years, anyway. Spend the money on them so you can eliminate them as the problem. > well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at > fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we > changed the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and > rotor and check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my > brother if he want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the > aftermarket bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley. > Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the code > indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the fault of > the (aftermarket) Bosch oxygen sensor. It could be, but I'd do more > checking, first. he said "primary" but he also said "under the catalytic converter", so im betting they replaced the wrong one. the term primary is also synonymous with "top" and "front", ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms. we did change the one on the exhaust manifold. i thought i had placed a picture to one of my postings.. >> Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the >> code indicated), I would not expect the roughness to necessarily be the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the > manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms. I don't see your picture. www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (after putting in your car's info) has a drawing of the exhaust manifold with the oxygen sensor, if there's still doubt. > we did change the one on the exhaust manifold. i thought i had placed a > picture to one of my postings.. > Elle wrote: >> Assuming you replaced the upstream ( = primary) oxygen sensor (as the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > betting they replaced the wrong one. the term primary is also synonymous > with "top" and "front", You're right. So Kala, check what SoCalMike said first. When you all get enough money together, for the best genuine Honda O2 sensor prices I have seen, see https://www.automedicsupply.com/catalog4.php?# By the way, by my parts sources, I think your engine is 1.6L. (I know: That's got to be the least of your worries.) > ie: primary/top/front/upstream sensor is the one screwed into the > manifold. different aftermarket parts books use different terms. > well okay if everyone is speculating the 02 sensor then my brother is at > fault on trying to save money by getting an aftermarket version. we changed > the sparkplugs, cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor and > check the sparkplug wires for resistance. now its up to my brother if he > want to live with the rough idle. there is no return on the aftermarket > bosh 02 sensor unfortunatley. there are 2 sensors. one is down below, in the cat, near the bottom/front of car near the radiator. this is the one you replaced. even though its aftermarket, this likely isnt the problem. you need to replace the oxygen sensor that is screwed into the exhaust manifold. open the hood, and itll be staring you in the face. if you feel like going aftermarket, go ahead. if theres a nippondenso (ND) aftermarket one, that would be best. might have to cut the wires off the old one, and use the connector. make sure you solder and shrinktube the connections. dealer price for an exact fit new one is about $215. THEN your idle problem should go away. and if you live in a smog state, you should pass with flying colors next time, if thats any consolation. if it dies at idle, shakes, runs poorly, it is likely the O2 sensor in the manifold isnt giving correct readings to the ECU. the one you replaced below the cat just lets the ECU know if the catalyst is doing its job. the one up top does most of the work. > My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code > revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a > problem. we changed it but now the idel is a little rough then before. the > service light no longer comes on. Is the new O2 sensor aftermarket or OEM? Some aftermarket O2 sensors do not work well with Hondas. Also, have the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor ever been changed? As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution. its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter right now though so i can't tell u. >> My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the code >> revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter was a [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution. > its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter > right now though so i can't tell u. 1) It's possible the BOSCH sensor you installed has the wrong characteristics for your car. 2) If you don't know your current idle speed, it is absolute foolishness to go noodling with the idle speed screw. 3) The other posters here are showing considerably better judgement in this matter than you. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ We was going to get a realiable tech meter but the point is already moot. Of course I would not tinker with the idle if I did not have a good meter, and if i did not have to. I am trying to convince my brother to change the O2 sensor to the OEM type. well at least now people now its the one on the manifold that we changed. so i'll leave it up to him. >> its the bosh brand i believed. we don't have reliable tech meter >> right now though so i can't tell u. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > this > matter than you. > We was going to get a realiable tech meter I had been wondering what "tech meter" was. You mean "tachometer." > We was going to get a realiable tech meter Why do you keep calling it a "tech meter"? > but the point is already moot. No it's not. You haven't done anything to make it moot yet. The problem remains. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> My brother's civic engine service light came on. extraction of the >> code revealed that the primary O2 sensor on the catalytic converter [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > As others have said, adjusting an idle screw is not the solution. While I agree changing the idle screw won't help, what I've found is that crud builds up under the idle screw between the throttle body and the manifold. Cleaning that out made a huge difference to my idle. Nobody seems to have mentioned it but, the most common causes of rough idle are 1) Dirty throttle body 2) Dirty IAC 3) Carbon buildup. 4) Dirty injectors. 5) Vacuum leaks. I'd clean the throttle body and IAC with INDUCTION CLEANER (not carb cleaner which will destroy the IAC). Then I'd run a decent injector cleaner through it like BG44K. BG44K cleans the injectors and removes built up carbon. I assume you've already looked for and fixed any vacuum leaks. |
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