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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2006overheating 94 honda civic
Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car temp drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced coolant temp sensor, but the problem is still happening > Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car temp > drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced coolant temp > sensor, but the problem is still happening Have you changed coolant lately? Try bleeding the cooling system it does strange things if there is air in the system. ernie >> Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car >> temp [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > does strange things if there is air in the system. > ernie Also, is the thermostat OEM? If not, replace it. How many miles and years on the thermostat? If over ten years or 100k miles, replace. | >> Thermostat works He already checked thermostat*, you twit | thermostat OEM? If not, replace it. Why must * be OEM ? You just want to sell OEM parts. | If over ten years or 100k miles, replace. My F20A's * was made in 1990, & is still fine. * is not known to often fail www.d-a-p.com/askus.htm. For the same amount of time to replace *, user can chk either * by dipping * in hot water & see if it opens / connects current ( to activate the relay which controls fan motor ). http://hostingprod.com/@aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm > | thermostat OEM? If not, replace it. > Why must * be OEM ? You just want to sell OEM parts. non-OEM may have different temperature set points. This part doesn't cost much. A little more for OEM, and hence certainty in the temperature setpoints, is a good investment. > | If over ten years or 100k miles, replace. > My F20A's * was made in 1990, & is still fine. Performance degrades with time. | OEM, and hence certainty in the temperature | setpoints, is a good investment. My OEM Toyo radiator ( model # 60300 AF ) 's cap puts too little pressure on coolant : when hot, coolant's air bubbles appear / expand, so ~1½ cc of coolant always got pushed out of cap & into overflow- bottle. If I buy a new cap, I'll avoid OEM / Toyo. I put a o-ring onto cap's bottom seat for cap's gasket to press onto, to increase cap's spring's pressure on coolant, www.barsleaks.net/faq.html then cylinder head's water's maximum temperature is lower, because air bubbles are now smaller so heat can be transferred out fstr : now tmprtre does not ( used to ) reach the top left corner of my '90 accord ( tmprtre gauge lacks calibration ) 's gear position indicator's D3 box, in 29°C ambient air. Before I got this new low max tmprtre, I sought an aluminium radiator to replace my OEM radiator. | Performance degrades with time. Bullshit, a thermostat* can work like new unless damaged by over heating, this is why no car maker's service schedule includes changing *. In 6-05 I tested my 15yr old * by dipping it in hot water, it opened fine ( start @ 78°C, fully by 90°C, as specified by honda ). U just want to push & sell OEM parts. <snip> > | Performance degrades with time. > Bullshit, a thermostat* can work like new unless damaged by over > heating, dude, that's not correct. thermostats rely on springs, seals and a wax plug. they all degrade with time and usage. > this is why no car maker's service schedule includes changing > *. some manufacturers don't specify transmission oil changes either - does that somehow mean that the transmission won't benefit from being changed? > In 6-05 I tested my 15yr old * by dipping it in hot water, it opened > fine ( start @ 78°C, fully by 90°C, as specified by honda ). > U just want to push & sell OEM parts. i may not care for all of elle's comments, but regarding oem parts for a honda, she's on the money. if you're a ford or chevy man, sure, after-market is just as good if not better than the junk oem those manufacturers use. but honda? honda spec parts are invariably much superior quality. especially for things like thermostats. "TE Cheah" <no@spam.biz> wrote snip--we don't agree. > | Performance degrades with time. > Bullshit, a thermostat* can work like new unless damaged by over > heating, this is why no car maker's service schedule includes changing I could say the same about you: You work for Autozone and want to push aftermarket parts. Fact is the difference in price is not large. To replace an old thermostat after 150k (which will likely then be the last time it ever needs replacement) miles is a perfectly good suggestion. Apprentices repair. Engineers and experienced technicians replace. Because that's a lot less hassle for just a little more money. >"TE Cheah" <no@spam.biz> wrote >snip--we don't agree. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >Apprentices repair. Engineers and experienced technicians replace. Because >that's a lot less hassle for just a little more money. Cheah is a little (well, maybe a lot) whacko. He once claimed that Hondas had a design defect in that they have an electric clock which draws electricity from the battery. Also, the design of the Honda ignition system makes it impossible for the engine to run faster than 3800rpm. >Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car temp >drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced coolant temp >sensor, but the problem is still happening Are your fan(s) coming on? Well the fans weren't working, but I changed the coolant tempature sensor and now one cut on at idle. this might be a dumb question do the fans cut on whil the car is driveing down the road >Well the fans weren't working, but I changed the coolant tempature sensor >and now one cut on at idle. this might be a dumb question do the fans cut >on whil the car is driveing down the road The fans are controlled by the temperature sensor/relay. If the coolant temperature hits a certain high set point the fans come on. Take the connector off the fans and apply voltage directly from your batter to the fan side connector. Do the fans turn? If so the problem is your temp sensor relay. If they do not the brushes are worn out on the fans. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any replacement brushes, they are not actually designed to be replaced so you have to replace the fan motor for the Rad fan and the whole fan assembly for the AC fan. Your problem sound like more than that because usually in the winter at normal operating speeds the temperature would not go up and cause the fans to come on. Unless you live in the tropics. There telling me (mechanics) Rad.-cooling fan switch. I bought the part but don't know were the hell it is > There telling me (mechanics) Rad.-cooling fan switch. I bought the > part but don't know were the hell it is Normally it's on the gooseneck where the thermostat sits. It is located at the bottom of the radiator by the lower radiator hose. > Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car > temp drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced > coolant temp sensor, but the problem is still happening Sure sound like poor circulation due to a plugged rad. Pull the cap off with the engine cold. Peek inside. What do the tubes look like?  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car temp > drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced coolant temp > sensor, but the problem is still happening how do you know the thermostat works? how did you test it? > Car overheats when driving, but when at a red light or at idle the car > temp drops. Thermostat works and so does the waterpump. replaced > coolant temp sensor, but the problem is still happening Well, could be head gasket. Blown Head gasket's cause oveheating, it's also likely the radiator needs to be replaced. It's 12 years old after all. Radiator efficiency degrades with time. Might want to feel the radiator and see if the heat is evenly distibuted. What happens is the cores near the center of the radiator cake up so, the center of the radiator is cold and the out edges are hot. If you feel that, then you need a radiator. Does the temp go down when you run the heat full blast? If so then it's another sign the radiator's shot. I'm in the OEM school myself. other then performance parts I ONLY use OEM honda parts. It doesn't matter if the heats on or not. When I'm at a stop the het will drop fast (real fast). I took it to a shop to get tested and they said its a radiator cooling fan switch. Now I just got to find the switch under the hood. When I touch the back of the radiator it cool to the touch. > I'm in the OEM school myself. other then performance parts I ONLY use > OEM honda parts. Rads are just about the only aftermarket parts I'll buy, besides windshields. There are plenty of decent aftermarket rads for a third dealer price. Any other parts, I buy OEM as well. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Rads are just about the only aftermarket parts I'll buy, besides > windshields. There are plenty of decent aftermarket rads for a third > dealer price. > > Any other parts, I buy OEM as well. You just reminded me that I need to find a decent aluminum radiator. Any suggestions? The civic overheats when I'm full throttle for extended periods. I was doing about 110 on the main straight at summit point, looked down for a sec and the needle had climbed to about 2/3rds it's range. Turning the heater on brought the temp back down but, I need that rad before I go back. >> Rads are just about the only aftermarket parts I'll buy, besides >> windshields. There are plenty of decent aftermarket rads for a third [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > You just reminded me that I need to find a decent aluminum radiator. > Any suggestions? I've got a Visteon in there right now. It's aluminum and fits and functions just fine. My previous rad was by Valeo. It was good too, but lasted only as long as the original OEM. I also use only genuine Honda antifreeze. NEVER tap water. This way I prevent deposits from forming in the tubes. The only reason I had to replace my rads was the fins corroded and fell off the tubes, so heat disspation was severely impaired. I live in the Rust Belt. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I've got a Visteon in there right now. It's aluminum and fits and > functions just fine. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > fell off the tubes, so heat disspation was severely impaired. I live > in the Rust Belt. Thanks, I'll look into it. I have a bigger motor in the civic and I think it just needs a larger radiator. |
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