If you don't know how to check the charging system with a multimeter take it
to someone to check the charging system. Some parts stores will check it.
The timing belt price sounds like a dealer price. Try an independent Honda
garage. It may be a little cheaper. If you let it go till it brakes there is
no backing up as the valves will probably hit...

Clean off (with water and a little baking soda) the battery terminals. Check
for secure connections. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the
battery terminals (1) with the engine off (should be about 12 V); (2) with
engine warmed up about five minutes, idling (should be about 14 V); (3) with
engine on, headlights on, defogger on, interior blower on (should be between
about 12.5 and 14 V).

If the system fails any of these tests, I would suspect the alternator
brushes first, based on a lot of reading. Internet sources suggest a life of
around 100k miles for brushes. My 91 Civic alternator (probably brushes)
failed in 1999 after 106k miles. But I had a fair amount of jump starts
before then. Meaning I let the battery die several times. Meaning this put a
strain on the charging/alternator system. My reading also supports the
contention that such activity will shorten an alternator's life.

You going to do this yourself, or have a shop do it?

Tell the group more about how well your car runs, and people can indicate
whether rebuilding the alternator is a good idea. 'Cause if a shop does  it,
it will run around $300 or so.

You got me beat. I've only got 260,000 miles on my 'Teg. Bought it new,
too.

Does it come on when the key is first turned to ON, and remain on
thereafter? If so, it means the system is not being charged by the
alternator. This does NOT necessarily mean the *alternator* is bad...

Not really part of the "charging system", but if bad, will overwork the
alternator.

Not part of the "charging system".

Ohhhh, the voltage regulator failed? Interesting. How many times has the
battery been allowed to run flat?

Could be, but you need to test this hypothesis with a multimeter. If you're
over 13.5V at 2,000 rpm, then the alternator is probably fine. Anybody do
any basic checks with a VOM?

If your clutch is original, I'll eat my hat. I got 255K out of mine and
every mechanic I've talked to says that's a record for them.

This car must have spent nearly 100% of its time cruising on the highway.
That's the only way you could get 377K out of your tranny bearings.

On 2/10/06 2:43 PM, in article ldGdna7ibYl-Z3HeRVn-gA@comcast.com, "Jeff
Kolodziej" <jakolodziej@comcast.net> wrote:

At 377k miles, I think its probably time for a new car.  I know in theory
its always cheaper to fix whatever the problem rather than replace the car,
but with this many miles and 16 years old, its probably time to move on.
When you add the cost of the timing belt job and an alternator, the total is
going to be more than the car is worth.

Many thanks to the people who replied to my original post with
advice. I am very happy with my Accord and, even though I
realize it's at the end of its useful life, I am curious just how
many miles I can safely get out of the car. In that spirit, I will
probably replace the brushes and voltage regulator again (and
clean up the battery terminals, thanx Elle) and see if my problem
heals itself. If it does, I will run the car until I see valves coming out
the engine hood (i.e. timing belt breaks). Maybe then it's time for
a new car. I am not sure if I will buy another Accord - I love
my current one, but I wonder if the 2006 Accord is as "good" as
my current one...

Thanks again f or the help.

Regards,

Jeff Kolodziej