 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Honda Cars / March 2006Comparison - Injen Short Ram PLUS Extension
I am having a hard time trying to decide which intake is best for my 96 Civic. I live in Canada and we got some bad winters so I'm looking at the Injen IS Short Ram and getting the CAI extension for it which I can use during the summer and take off in the winter. I'm not planning to go racing (yet), I just want to have better acceleration and power in the low to mid-range area. How does would this setup (the short ram with the CAI extension on) compare to the AEM CAI or the Injen RD CAI in terms of power. Would it be better if I just get the AEM CAI with the bypass? I heard that Injen is better than AEM in terms of power but is that the Injen RD and not the IS? Thanks a lot! -dre "Andre" <andrevillegas@gmail.com> wrote in news:1139975348.433094.194580 @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: > I am having a hard time trying to decide which intake is best for my 96 > Civic. I live in Canada and we got some bad winters so I'm looking at [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > -dre I have the AEM short ram on mine and am quite pleased with it. It's loud as hell when Vtec kicks in, louder then the exhaust. I had a regular CAI at one point but, the risks of trashing the motor while driving in the rain made me too nervous. You get into a heavy rain and your butt puckers every time you get near a puddle. Every splash could be your last. As for power gain, you're not going to notice any. It'll sound faster but, measurement wise, it's probably unnoticable. What engine do you have? You know that underhood temps while moving down the road are about the same as ambient. This means both the short RAM and CAI draw in about the same temp air when you're moving down the road. When you're sitting still it might be cooler but, even that's hard to say unless the CAI is insulated all the to the throttle body. Hey thanks for your reply. I have a Civic LX, so it's a 1.6L SOHC, it's not a VTEC. I got a reply from some guy telling me that on a stock engine, intakes (SRI or CAI) will actually lower HP. Too bad I already got a good deal on an Injen SRI. My car won't be stock for long anyway the way I'm spending money on it. Slowly but surely it'll be faster. Andre- I have the same car you do. Don't waste your money trying to make it faster. If you want to do anything to it, I recommend suspension. It will handle very well with the right parts. The D16(your engine) DOES NOT respond to bolt ons AT ALL. You will regret putting any money into the engine. Unless you are rich or something and you're going to rebuild and turbo it, don't do anything. Here's an ideal suspension setup: 15 inch lightweight wheels such as Rota. some good tires like Falken Azenis or something. Koni yellows and H&R Sport or some good coilovers like Omni power(entry level) NOT APC, dropzone, etc. A good rear sway bar like ITR 22mm(with bracing) or a smaller one like 15-19mm. Front chassis under brace. There are other things as well, but with those mods the car will out handle alot of higher level cars. If you really want to do engine mods, then here are some pretty cheap ones. Keep in mind all this will only net you about 30hp at the most. Y8 (Civic EX) intake manifold and larger throttle body EX header, and aftermarket High flow cat. ] A good, quiet exhaust like Apex WS2 or RSR ExMag.( Trust me a loud exhaust gets very annoying, and doesnt add any power) Sorry for the long post, but I dont want you to go through what I did, the frustration of money spent for nothing.  Signaturealphalanos http://www.automotiveforums.com > Andre- I have the same car you do. Don't waste your money trying to > make it faster. If you want to do anything to it, I recommend [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Sorry for the long post, but I dont want you to go through what I did, > the frustration of money spent for nothing. Yeah, I agree with you. Typical bolt on engine parts make next to no difference in power. If I was going to hop up a D16, the cheapest way to do it and make real power would be a turbo kit. A turbo kit is cheaper than an engine swap. I like the looks of the short RAM just as I like the looks my AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. I consider them more "engine dressup" than performance parts. Thanks alphalanos for this reply. Definitely gave me something to think about. More constructive than any other post I've received. I was thinking about the wheels already and surprisingly I was looking at Rota as well, the Subzeros. You recommended the 15, why not the 16? too heavy I'm guessin? As for the coilovers, how low do you recommended that I go? just the sport level? the one that lowers 1.7" and 1.5" in front or something. I'll start looking at performance exhausts as well. Unfortunately I already got an Injen SRI, maybe I'll just put it on for looks. Thanks again. -dre "Andre" <andrevillegas@gmail.com> wrote in news:1140357679.484578.174280 @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com: > Thanks alphalanos for this reply. Definitely gave me something to think > about. More constructive than any other post I've received. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > -dre Basically any engine change you make, other than going force induction, turbo or super, will only be cosmetic at best. You may get more horsepower or you may hurt your horsepower. Some changes will reduce the weight of the car, like switching to a header. Do you think you can actually feel 8-10 HP? I'm not sure sure I can. Look at the Kosei K-1's. They're a nice light wheel. Rota's a nice too though. Buddy has them on his hatch. Do you care about how the car rides? The taller the wheel, the thinner the tire so, you have reduced ride quality. On my 15's I use a 50 series tire (205x50R15) . Still rides pretty well and the sidewalls are stiffer. On a 16 or 17, you're getting might thin. I believe the 17's require a 35 series tire profile which is damn thin. If you intend to upgrade your brakes some day though, most aftermarket brakes, like Brembo's or Baer require 17" wheels to clear the calipers. My brakes which are Integra brakes on my civic are not big enough for track use. With R compound tires, I couldn't lock them up if my life depended on it (no ABS). For coilovers, one of the most common setups is, Ground Control springs and perches mated to Koni yellow shocks. You can set the drop to anything you want because each coilover is adjustable. I'm dropped so the tires are just about at fender level. I don't want to compromise suspension travel. If you start riding the bump stops on fast corners, the car gets pretty twitchy. Nice thing about the GC setup is you can tailor the spring rates to whatever you want up to about 550 lbs/in (Koni limit). Thanks for your reply Dufus, I am thinking about changing my stock shocks because they're getting squeaky, I dunno if it's the shocks or the springs. I'll definitely looking into the Ground Control/Koni combo. What do you think about Kyb/Tokico shocks, and Omni Power springs/Eibach? I'm just trying to consider other good combinations. What do you recommend for a camber kit? Thanks. > "Andre" <andrevillegas@gmail.com> wrote in news:1139975348.433094.194580 > @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > As for power gain, you're not going to notice any. It'll sound faster > but, measurement wise, it's probably unnoticable. and there we have it. increased risk of engine damage, reduced engine life due to increased contaminant ingestion, and zero payback? doesn't seem like a good idea to me. add to that the fact that by excluding the *resonator* [it's not there just to quiet the system], some rev ranges are not getting their required "dynamic supercharge", and you have a really bad idea imo. > What engine do you > have? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > it might be cooler but, even that's hard to say unless the CAI is > insulated all the to the throttle body. >> "Andre" <andrevillegas@gmail.com> wrote in >> news:1139975348.433094.194580 @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > some rev ranges are not getting their required "dynamic supercharge", > and you have a really bad idea imo. In my case there is no stock air cleaner that will mate up to my 98 hatch with the B18C5 so, the short RAM's what you make do with. It's pretty too. I'm also not convinced that the stock paper element is any better than my oil impregnated K&N. I'll probably be in the same boat when I buy a K20A next year. If the original poster wants to make power, one of the best way's is to swap an Integra LS motor in. All the swap parts you need are available from Honda. You don't actually need that much if you're handy. Rear motor bracket mount needs to change You'll need a Civic SI driver's side mount bracket. As a side note, you know that K&N is doing away with the oil impregnated filters? People were putting on the K&N's and destroying their Mass Airflow Sensors (MAF) by having too much oil on the filter. Oil and MAF's don't mix apparently. Luckily, I don't think any honda uses a MAF. >>>"Andre" <andrevillegas@gmail.com> wrote in >>>news:1139975348.433094.194580 @z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > than my oil impregnated K&N. I'll probably be in the same boat when I buy > a K20A next year. ho hum. check out tegger's faq's on air filters. read something like the bosch automotive handbook for reasons on why keeping the resonator is a good thing. should be in your local library. > If the original poster wants to make power, one of the best way's is to > swap an Integra LS motor in. All the swap parts you need are available > from Honda. You don't actually need that much if you're handy. Rear motor > bracket mount needs to change You'll need a Civic SI driver's side mount > bracket. does that affect air filtration??? > As a side note, you know that K&N is doing away with the oil impregnated > filters? People were putting on the K&N's and destroying their Mass > Airflow Sensors (MAF) by having too much oil on the filter. Oil and MAF's > don't mix apparently. depends on type of air flow sensor. if it's heated wire/element, it's dust accumulation because k&n's don't filter very effectively. if it's sprung butterfly [bosch] type, it'll make no difference. and it's got nothing to do with oil - heated wire/element types are over-heated at either startup or shutdown to burn organics off. can't burn off the silica-type dust accumulations tho. > Luckily, I don't think any honda uses a MAF. i think you mean amf, not maf. amf is air-mass flow. honda uses map, a manifold air pressure sensor and measures differential between that and another sensor in the passenger compartment. a lousy filter will make no difference until the manifold sensor hole gets clogged, but the engine will be dead long before that occurs. > i think you mean amf, not maf. amf is air-mass flow. honda uses map, > a manifold air pressure sensor and measures differential between that > and another sensor in the passenger compartment. a lousy filter will > make no difference until the manifold sensor hole gets clogged, but > the engine will be dead long before that occurs. No, I mean MAF, you know heated platinum wire and all? Maybe you're thinking about the air flow meters they used on Miata's and some other cars. I know honda's are speed/density. MAF sensors are destroyed if you get oil on them. Since K&N's require oil, people were/are damaging MAF sensors when they installed the K&N's. Read the article, interesting enough. Unless I missed it they didn't describe how they prepped the K&N. I'm willing to believe though that the K&N doesn't filter as well as the paper element. So, if I only get 80K on the motor instead of 120k, well that's the cost I guess. Won't be my car (or that motor) at that point so, I'll let the next guy worry about it. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.