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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2006

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Anti-Theft radio and the Aux Power Plug(cigarette lighter)

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Al - 20 Feb 2006 21:05 GMT
   My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold mornings,
so I took it to WalMart for a new one. I explained the radio's requirements,
and they assured me that they are professionals and would do the job
correctly. They used a "reserve power" plug to maintain voltage to the
anti-theft radio during the change. It didn't work. No, I don't have the
code, because it didn't come with the car when I bought it, used. The honda
dealer has me scheduled to remove the center console, and radio, and get the
code from Honda. His estimate is $65. Is there a method, using the power
recepticle, that would work? How should one do it?  What is the approved
method?

Al

'Curly Q. Links' - 20 Feb 2006 22:23 GMT
>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold mornings,
> so I took it to WalMart for a new one. I explained the radio's requirements,
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Al

-------------------------------

SEARCH is your friend. Search this NG, or go to Google.com.

You really should have been sure YOU had the code before they locked
your radio. Here's the quick version. The CODE is five digits long, and
often written inside the owner's manual, or on white stickers inside the
glove box, sometimes it's just the serial number, but it will get you
the answer. The dealer who serviced that car PROBABLY has the CODE noted
in their computer. Try turning ON the radio, turn OFF the key. Hold 1
and 6 and turn key to accessory (position II). If the radio starts
spelling out two groups of four digits with alpha characters on the
front, write them down. Eight digits make up your serial number. Now ANY
dealer can get your CODE for you, and should do it for free, providing
you prove you're the owner of the vehicle (VIN # and registration are
sometimes asked for).

P.S. When your owner's manual arrives, write the CODE in it, as well as
inside the fuse box covers.

'Curly'
chip - 21 Feb 2006 04:08 GMT
>>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold mornings,
>> so I took it to WalMart for a new one. I explained the radio's requirements,
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
>'Curly'

the 1 and 6 trick only works on ex models in 2001 and almost all
models 2002 and current.

post a VIN # and let's see what we can do.

   the memory saver for the accessory outlet only works on domestics.
the socket is dead on a honda with the key off. I use a jump box at
the terminals to assure i don't have this problem.
                             Chip
Matt Ion - 21 Feb 2006 06:35 GMT
>     the memory saver for the accessory outlet only works on domestics.
> the socket is dead on a honda with the key off. I use a jump box at
> the terminals to assure i don't have this problem.

That's what he gets for going to Wal-Mart for automotive ANYTHING.

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Al - 21 Feb 2006 16:03 GMT
>>     the memory saver for the accessory outlet only works on domestics.
>> the socket is dead on a honda with the key off. I use a jump box at
>> the terminals to assure i don't have this problem.
>
> That's what he gets for going to Wal-Mart for automotive ANYTHING.

I couldn't agree more.

Al
AZ Nomad - 21 Feb 2006 13:40 GMT
>>>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold mornings,
>>> so I took it to WalMart for a new one. I explained the radio's requirements,
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>>
>>'Curly'

> the 1 and 6 trick only works on ex models in 2001 and almost all
>models 2002 and current.

>post a VIN # and let's see what we can do.

Better yet, let's not.

If the radio isn't stolen, any dealer can lookup the code and give it to him
provided he can show them the car is his.  Shouldn't be hard.  A copy of
the registration and photo ID is enough.

If the radio is stolen then having a bitch of a time getting the code is
a good thing.
Al - 21 Feb 2006 16:08 GMT
>>>>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold
>>>> mornings,
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
> provided he can show them the car is his.  Shouldn't be hard.  A copy of
> the registration and photo ID is enough.

The radio isn't stolen. The car isn't stolen. I have the License, Title, and
registration. I have photo ID, a clear criminal record, and a bill of sale.
The
dealer can't "Look up the code", without the radio serial number. The serial
number is not available from the front. As I said in another response, I now
have
the code, $37.50 later, and have written it down everywhere I can think of.

Al
AZ Nomad - 21 Feb 2006 18:48 GMT
>The radio isn't stolen. The car isn't stolen. I have the License, Title, and
>registration. I have photo ID, a clear criminal record, and a bill of sale.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>have
>the code, $37.50 later, and have written it down everywhere I can think of.

The dealer should have been able to look up the radio code from the VIN.
Al - 21 Feb 2006 20:34 GMT
According to the dealer, "That is not possible".

   Horizon Honda/Mazda
   Roseburg, Oregon

   Al

>>The radio isn't stolen. The car isn't stolen. I have the License, Title,
>>and
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> The dealer should have been able to look up the radio code from the VIN.
chip - 22 Feb 2006 02:17 GMT
>>The radio isn't stolen. The car isn't stolen. I have the License, Title, and
>>registration. I have photo ID, a clear criminal record, and a bill of sale.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>The dealer should have been able to look up the radio code from the VIN.

 it's very common for people to think this way, but it's just not
true at all!!!!   the vin has nothing to do with the radio code.
 people come in all the time thinking this..  don't believe it!
       Unless the dealer recorded the code at the time of PDI it's
impossible to cross vin to radio!
                                       Chip
Al - 21 Feb 2006 16:02 GMT
>>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold
>> mornings,
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> You really should have been sure YOU had the code before they locked
> your radio.

And if the car didn't come with it, HOW do I make sure I have it?

>Here's the quick version. The CODE is five digits long, and
> often written inside the owner's manual, or on white stickers inside the
> glove box, sometimes it's just the serial number, but it will get you
> the answer. The dealer who serviced that car PROBABLY has the CODE noted
> in their computer.

The car is from out of town, and the dealer doesn't have it.

>Try turning ON the radio, turn OFF the key. Hold 1
> and 6 and turn key to accessory (position II). If the radio starts
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> you prove you're the owner of the vehicle (VIN # and registration are
> sometimes asked for).

I think this is for newer cars.

> P.S. When your owner's manual arrives, write the CODE in it, as well as
> inside the fuse box covers.

I have the manual, and we searched it. No code.

> 'Curly'

It cost 37.50 to tear the thing apart, I now have the code. The dealer now
has the code. It is written in my manual, glovebox, fusebox, and trunk lid.
chip - 22 Feb 2006 02:14 GMT
>>>     My 1998 Accord EX battery was getting real tired on these cold
>>> mornings,
[quoted text clipped - 49 lines]
>It cost 37.50 to tear the thing apart, I now have the code. The dealer now
>has the code. It is written in my manual, glovebox, fusebox, and trunk lid.
 
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