The heater valve does not fully close from the dash lever and constanly lets
warm air through. I had the heater cable replaced but it made no difference.
In the winter, it isn't such a bad thing, but not so in the summer months.
If I go under the hood I can manually complete the additional 1 or 2 degrees
of turning on the valve actuator to get it to fully close.
Is there some kind of adjustment or modification that I can make to get the
cable to fully close the valve?? Thanks, Lar
'Curly Q. Links' - 01 Mar 2006 16:56 GMT
> The heater valve does not fully close from the dash lever and constanly lets
> warm air through. I had the heater cable replaced but it made no difference.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Is there some kind of adjustment or modification that I can make to get the
> cable to fully close the valve?? Thanks, Lar
---------------------------
That's gotta be the #1 complaint on '95, '96' '97 and '98. I thought a
guy could mount a return spring on the valve to help it go the extra few
degrees, but it might slowly go shut when you wanted it open . :-(
You can adjust the length of the cable at the valve end, but the first
time you punch the accelerator, it comes out of adjustment. Seems the
cable is too short.
There's lots of discussion at odyclub.com (search), but not many
concrete solutions.
'Curly'
Larry B - 01 Mar 2006 21:39 GMT
> > The heater valve does not fully close from the dash lever and constanly lets
> > warm air through. I had the heater cable replaced but it made no difference.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> 'Curly'
Nice to have company.....NOT!! The first gen Ody has been a great car
(with this and a recent inexplicable door leak as exceptions).
I was thinking of cutting the wire and using a small bolt with 2 washers, a
lock washer and a nut to clamp it back together, just slightly extended. A
soldered or crimped extension would not hold or could distort the wire. I
would say that it only needs to be 1/16 to 1/8" longer.
Lar
'Curly Q. Links' - 02 Mar 2006 01:46 GMT
> I was thinking of cutting the wire and using a small bolt with 2 washers, a
> lock washer and a nut to clamp it back together, just slightly extended. A
> soldered or crimped extension would not hold or could distort the wire. I
> would say that it only needs to be 1/16 to 1/8" longer.
----------------------
Problem it's pushing at an oblique angle when it gets to the last little
bit of it's push. Maybe a spring could be placed so it would hold it
tight while open, and when closed . You can figure out what's wrong with
my e-mail address and we'll talk. I'll send you a drawing . . . .
Curly remove the under__scores.
ricebike - 01 Mar 2006 17:35 GMT
ditto w/ some other honda models as well... @ www.honda-tech.com

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ricebike
http://www.automotiveforums.com
Larry B - 15 Apr 2006 19:33 GMT
> ditto w/ some other honda models as well... @ www.honda-tech.com
The service manual (p22-47) indicates that the adjustment for this is a
clip. Well, what the manual was apparently calling "an adjustment" was the
spring clip that secures the cable to bracket that also holds the heater
control valve. This bracket keeps a set relationship between the cable
housing and the valve but moving the cable housing does nothing to change
the "throw" of the cable itself. Some adjustment!
What I ended up doing was this... The cable terminates in a little spool of
cable with cable bent right at the spool to evenly distribute the cable's
pushing force without unraveling the spool. Kind of like this....
-------------------O
I used needle nose pliers to unravel the spool a little (clockwise) which
in effect lengthens the cable a bit. Most importantly, I got rid of the old
bend and made a new one just a little further down the cable (maybe 3/32")
where the new spool starts. I wasn't sure how brittle the cable would be as
cables are usually made of spring steel but I had no problems. With the
cable now just a little longer, the heater lever now fully closes the heater
control valve and I no longer have heat coming out of the vents when the
heater lever is set all the way to the left (cool).
I hope that this helps somebody else.
Lar
SoCalMike - 02 Mar 2006 01:43 GMT
> The heater valve does not fully close from the dash lever and constanly lets
> warm air through. I had the heater cable replaced but it made no difference.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Is there some kind of adjustment or modification that I can make to get the
> cable to fully close the valve?? Thanks, Lar
that would probably involve finding out where the housing is
attached/clamped to, and pulling it back (through the clamp) enough to
take the slack from the inner cable...
or something to that effect.