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Car Forum / Honda Cars / March 2006

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Stuck lug nut - help

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Loukas Kallivokas - 17 Mar 2006 04:06 GMT
I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how to separate them
would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on the wheel with the
stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .

Thanks
Loukas
jim beam - 17 Mar 2006 04:29 GMT
> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Thanks
> Loukas

2-stage problem:

1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel.  use a chisel
& safety glasses.

2. replace the hub.

because the bolt is spinning, the splines that hold it in the hub are
wasted, and it's likely to happen again if you replace try replacing
just the bolt.  fortunately, hubs of this era accord are plentiful &
cheap in junk yards, so replacement is not going to be difficult.
Burt - 26 Mar 2006 06:29 GMT
> 2-stage problem:
> 1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel.  use a chisel
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> just the bolt.  fortunately, hubs of this era accord are plentiful &
> cheap in junk yards, so replacement is not going to be difficult.

You can take an angle grinder, cut the nut and bolt then grind the rest out.

You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.
Next step is to secure the stud. Now, drill the hub and the stud's head
to secure the stud from spinning but don't drill all the way thru.
Insert a steel key to fit.

> 1. cut the nut off the bolt so you can recover the wheel.  use a chisel
> & safety glasses.

Is the chisel intended to break the stud/nut or spin out the bolt? This is
impossible if the nut is seized to the bolt, which in many cases it's
too much stuck together.
Kaz Kylheku - 26 Mar 2006 06:48 GMT
> You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
> on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
> removing the hub, but yet it was easily accomplished by the
> experienced. Before fitting in the stud, apply some JB-Weld on both.

Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
its role?
jim beam - 26 Mar 2006 19:15 GMT
>>You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
>>on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
> its role?

it's role is to melt when the brake/bearing assembly gets hot and really
foul up the whole stinking mess.
Burt - 27 Mar 2006 09:25 GMT
> >>You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
> >>on the on the front hub which was impossible to fit the stud without
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> it's role is to melt when the brake/bearing assembly gets hot and really
> foul up the whole stinking mess.

As in...? JB-Weld do not melt but instead burn up at extreme temperatures.
Burt - 27 Mar 2006 09:25 GMT
> Burt wrote:
> > You do not need to replace the hub. In fact, this problem happened
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Does any of this epoxy remain after the job is done, and if so, what is
> its role?

Yes. Epoxy fills the void to eliminate play. Remember that the old lug nut
has strip portions of the teeth.  Play is its enemy. And the inserted key
takes all the weight.
'Curly Q. Links' - 17 Mar 2006 05:13 GMT
> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> Thanks
> Loukas

---------------------------

Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.

'Curly'
Loukas Kallivokas - 17 Mar 2006 14:10 GMT
Jim and "Curly",

many thanks for the suggestions. I'll try to break the nut out one way or
another.

Loukas

>> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear wheels
>> have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate freely. I
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> 'Curly'
Burt - 26 Mar 2006 06:28 GMT
> Depends a lot on what type of wheel is on it, whether you can get a good
> 'shot' at it. I'd drill out the stud until there's nothing left but the
> nut. If you can get a clear shot at it from the side, use a nut-buster
> to get the nut off, then do what Jim said.

Drilling was proven to be more time consuming. Unless, you can
crumble the nut by drilling on both sides of a nut by avoiding the stud.
TeGGeR® - 18 Mar 2006 01:00 GMT
> I've got a stuck lug nut in the rear wheel on a 92 Accord EX (rear
> wheels have disks). The bolt and the nut are mated together and rotate
> freely. I tried wd40 and other remedies to no avail. Any ideas on how
> to separate them would really help (Murphy's law says that the tire on
> the wheel with the stuck nut will be my next flat tire :-) .



Questions:

Are your lugnuts the acorn type, with a closed top? Or are they just
regular nuts (stud protrudes)?

Alloy wheels? Or steel with wheel covers removable without removing the
nuts)?

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TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 
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