No, you got it. www.hondautomotiveparts.com shows, for the
93 Accord LX, the 50 mm hex design of pulley. The tool you
designed and which is now referenced at Tegger's site will
work on it.

You don't need to ask. Curly has already given you everything I know:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolt.html

I like to start with the electric impact wrench first. The bolt will often
come loose with that, and ti only costs $15 per day at an industrial rental
place. The best thing about the impact wrench is that the engine does not
move AT ALL while you work, so your TDC setting is undisturbed.

Sure, a lot of people have reported having done this. It's a
great solution.

Do consider tipping the mechanic 10 bucks or so. That's what
folks here have reported doing, so all think they've been
treated fairly.

Not true. The pulley bolt may be freed with all these
accessory belts left intact.

Regarding how tight you should have the mechanic torque the
bolt (after breaking it free): That bolt takes a lot more
torque to free than is actually required when installing it.
E.g. typically over 300 ft-lbs are needed to free it. If the
mechanic frees it, then torques it to the manual's
specification (which varies; it's 119 ft-lbs for my 91
Civic), it will be completely safe to drive. You just do not
want to drive it too long cause the bolt will tighten up
again. Drive a few miles, and you should be able to free it
at home pretty easily.

I don't agree with Tegger that using a pulley holding tool
results in concerns about being a little off TDC. That's not
at all important, from where I'm sitting. What is important
is marking the old timing belt, the crankshaft sprocket, and
the camshaft sprocket so you install the new belt correctly
and don't get the notorious "TB off a tooth" problem.

Here's my site on the three different types of pulley
holding tools available or that one can manufacture one's
self: http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id6.html Note
that, for the 93 Accord, it links to the site Curly steered
you towards earlier.

bogus.  first you say you replace honda belts without removing the valve
cover, then you say the fuel gauge sender float affects starting, now
you're removing a bolt that takes ~400 ft.lbs to shift with the aid of a
screwdriver???  that's bull.

for other readers, that kind of kludge may work in some cars, but not
this one.  if you break a tooth, replacing a broken ring gear on a
honda, where the the ring is welded to the torque converter, is going to
cost you $800+ retail, plus a whole lot of labor.  honda provide a
proper holding mechanism on the pulley wheel for precisely this purpose.

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote

Holding the flywheel with a 9-mm x 9-mm screw driver is reliable and
secure. I stand behind what I've done for years. If machine power is
needed to move the bolt then you'll need to secure the pulley. And
holding the pulley on the 2.2 liter motor doesn't require any
modifications or a specially built tool.

There is no access to the ring gear on the 2.2-liter engine (auto) from the front.
The ring gear is built very tough. If you're ever to hold the ring
gear on the car, the driven force will be at the gears favor. There is a
ring gear holder depicted in the service manual.

Yes, the valve cover can be removed without the valve cover without
damages.

You can try what I did on a 96 Acura TL and a 88 Accord.  Take your old belt
and cut it so that if fits around the pulley.  use some tape to hold it in
place.  Then pick up a nylon web tie down strap,
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40063 is the
one I used as I had it lying around.  Carefully wrap it around the pulley a few
times and leave some slack.  Then put a breakar bar, although a strong pipe
should also work, through the end and twist it to take up the slack.  Then
place the end of the breaker bar against the body.  That will hold the pulley
while you loosen the bolt.  
---------------
Alex