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Car Forum / Honda Cars / April 20061992 Accord Shudders - DTCs
I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX. It has had several DTCs for the automatic transmisison set for quite some time (approximately two years for at least 3 of the 4 codes). There didn't seem to be anything wrong with the car, so I didn't worry about it. The D4 light blinks only when the test connector is shorted. I didn't even realize that these were DTCs for the transmission until recently. Recently, the car has started to shudder on accelleration (or under load, like when performing a stall test) between 1500 and 2000 RPM. (It feels like you're going over small ripples/bumps in the road.) It occurs almost exclusively in this RPM range, although it has begun to creep up into higher RPM ranges as the problem has worsened. It is very hard to tell if it is a sputter (engine) or a shudder (transmission). There does not seem to be a sputter in the engine when giving it gas while in park (or reving the engine freely through the specified RPM range). I do not have the service manual for the car (though I have been meaning to get one). The codes are 1, 2, 7, & 8. I do not know if these are long or short blinks because they are all the same duration with the same duration pauses in between. I would guess that they are short, based experience. Can anyone help? I would appreciate any help possible. > I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX. It has had several DTCs for the > automatic transmisison set for quite some time (approximately two years [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > duration pauses in between. I would guess that they are short, based > experience. Can anyone help? I would appreciate any help possible. -------------------------------- How come nobody ever mentions the two most useful bits of info?? What's the mileage, and how recently have you tried replacing the Honda tranny fluid? 'Curly' > > I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX. It has had several DTCs for the > > automatic transmisison set for quite some time (approximately two years [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > 'Curly' To answer your first question: If those are common questions I didn't know, last night was my first night to this message board. Also, I guess since I try to take very good care of my vehicles I didn't even think of it being necessary to mention when my last trans fluid change was because I never let it go too long, though I did just check and notice it has been about 24,000 miles since I last changed it. I try to change it every 25,000 miles. (Change it, not flush it). So, as for your other questions, the car has about 174,857 miles on it, and the trans fluid has about 24,000 miles on it. Do you think that's enough miles on the trans fluid for it to start acting up? It's never happened on this car before, even with more miles on the fluid. I was planning to try changing it this weekend anyway. However, here's another question I thought of last night after I already posted my last message: Is it okay to use Mobil Synthetic ATF in this car? The manual says to use Dexron, and the Mobil Synthetic says it's for use in vehicles that require Dexron, so I've been using the Mobil synthetic. Is that a problem with this car for some reason? Oh, and yes, I cleared the DTCs and they came right back (a long time ago). Also, I've already replaced the entire distributor because the bearing wore out and ruined all the contacts (common problem with this car). However that's one of the few aftermarket (remanufactured) parts I have put on the car because it was SO much cheaper than the new Honda part, and I don't know if it will last. When it broke, it never caused any sputters, it just wouldn't start. I thought I'd check on it this weekend also, just to be sure. I would really like to know what the codes mean. Hopefully that covers everything. > To answer your first question: If those are common questions I didn't > know, last night was my first night to this message board. Also, I [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > notice it has been about 24,000 miles since I last changed it. I try > to change it every 25,000 miles. (Change it, not flush it). So, as change, as in change, run, change? or just change once? if you change once, you arent getting all the old stuff out of the torque converter. > for your other questions, the car has about 174,857 miles on it, and > the trans fluid has about 24,000 miles on it. Do you think that's [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > vehicles that require Dexron, so I've been using the Mobil synthetic. > Is that a problem with this car for some reason? try changing it out with stuff (honda ATF) from the honda dealer. for some weird reason, dexron, etc seem to cause rough/abrupt shifting. if you notice a change for the better, change it AGAIN with MORE of it in about a week. goal is to try to get as much of the old stuff out as possible. clear the codes, see if they come back. but at close to 200k miles on the original tranny, i dont know how much longer itll last. cant help ya with the codes, but hopefully the honda fluid will clear a few of the problems up, if not all. > > > I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX. It has had several DTCs for the > > > automatic transmisison set for quite some time (approximately two years [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > vehicles that require Dexron, so I've been using the Mobil synthetic. > Is that a problem with this car for some reason? ------------------------------------ The manual says you can use DEXRON as a TEMPORARY REPLACEMENT when Honda Z1 isn't immediately available. Dexron will destroy your Honda, so the synthetic version of Dexron probably has already. 7 litres of Z1 (drain-n-fill two times) MIGHT get you back in the game, but it's probably damaged beyond hope. 'Curly' <SNIP>as > for your other questions, the car has about 174,857 miles on it, and > the trans fluid has about 24,000 miles on it. Do you think that's [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > another question I thought of last night after I already posted my last > message: Is it okay to use Mobil Synthetic ATF in this car? ------------------------------------- Take a long look at this post about Amsoil in CR-V's. Sign in, then SEARCH if you want to find out about other synthetics and Hondas . . . . http://www.hondasuv.com/stg/viewtopic.php?t=11261& Good luck with the tranny. 'Curly' > I would really like to know what the codes mean. This should be close enough: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/91_legend_at_dtc_chart.pdf  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Thanks for the help guys. One stupid mistake. . . I've probably been using synthetic for about 60k miles. I didn't see it say temp replacement anywhere in this manual (though I've seen it in others). Argh! I see more and more you shouldn't use anything other than honda products in honda vehicles. I was just using Mobil Sythetic in the engine and trans. Now look where it's got me. While I'm at it, is it safe to use Mobil 1 in the engine? According to that chart it sounds like my A and B solenoids are all bad. However, I'm not having / haven't been having any of those symptoms. Well, I'll try getting Honda fluid back in the trans and see if it's not too late. I may have to drive a couple hours to even get some. I just moved to Ridgecrest, CA and there's no Honda dealer here. Even if it comes back, I wonder how much damage has been done? At least my fluid hasn't ever been dark like the guy with the CRV. Maybe that's good. Is this a case where I should just take it to the dealer and drop the money and have them check it out and possibly do a flush, just to get the rest of the synthetic out, or is it not worth it? > Thanks for the help guys. One stupid mistake. . . > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > in the engine and trans. Now look where it's got me. While I'm at it, > is it safe to use Mobil 1 in the engine? Yes. > According to that chart it sounds like my A and B solenoids are all > bad. However, I'm not having / haven't been having any of those [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > and drop the money and have them check it out and possibly do a flush, > just to get the rest of the synthetic out, or is it not worth it? It would be an *excellent* idea to get ALL the old fluid out. Bite the bullet, get a proper flush done, and see what happens. In fact, if you notice a distinct improvement with one complete flush, get it done AGAIN to catch the last of the synth. This is NOT the time for half-assed measures. Transmission replacement is horrendously expensive. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Thanks for the help guys. One stupid mistake. . . > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > and drop the money and have them check it out and possibly do a flush, > just to get the rest of the synthetic out, or is it not worth it? ==================================== 'Flush' is a dirty word at Honda dealerships. They don't 'flush' honda autoboxes, just drain-n-fill them. Why not order 7 quarts from the dealer and have them put it on the bus? Warm it up, drain it once for 10 minutes, refill with Honda, run it through all the gears for five minutes, repeat. Reset the codes. You'll know soon enough if the codes don't return. If it's WAY better, invest in three or four more quarts and do it again to be sure of good protection. 'Curly' > Thanks for the help guys. One stupid mistake. . . > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > in the engine and trans. Now look where it's got me. While I'm at it, > is it safe to use Mobil 1 in the engine? absolutely. its just the tranny thats unreasonably finicky. did you notice it shifting rougher after you switched 90k miles ago? > According to that chart it sounds like my A and B solenoids are all > bad. However, I'm not having / haven't been having any of those [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > and drop the money and have them check it out and possibly do a flush, > just to get the rest of the synthetic out, or is it not worth it? a flush might just be throwing good money after bad. a couple of DIY changes should do it, a few days apart. Thanks guys. Yeah, I just drained and filled twice (on 4/18/06). About 15 miles in between. It seems to be about 50%+ better. However, the problem is still there. I was considering trying the drain and fill one more time. I don't have the fluid for another change yet and I was thinking I'd put a few more miles on this fluid first. What do you think? What could be causing this problem? Why does it only shudder in a very narrow RPM range? It's not like it's slipping, clunking, grinding, etc. Could it be another part of the drivetrain? This one's got me puzzled. |
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