2004 Accord EX Cruise Switch

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Leah Ann - 22 Aug 2006 17:51 GMT

My cruise control switch is not staying punched in. This is the "Main"
button on the steering wheel. I can compress the button, I hear the
normal click, the light on the dash comes on, but when I let go I hear
another click, the light goes out. If I hold the button down, I can
set the cruise control and it works, so there doesn't seem to be any
problem with the actual cruise control, just the button. I'm thinking
the switch assembly needs replaced. Any advice? Should I take it to a
mechanic or is this something I can do myself? I've looked at a few
diagrams and it looks fairly simple.

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Graham W - 22 Aug 2006 21:39 GMT

> My cruise control switch is not staying punched in. This is the "Main"
> button on the steering wheel. I can compress the button, I hear the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> mechanic or is this something I can do myself? I've looked at a few
> diagrams and it looks fairly simple.

You could try to this: Push the button in then, instead of removing
your finger the usual way, slide it off sideways so that the button
can come up under its own spring. It should snap up rapidly and
make a sound as the up travel limit stop is tapped by the moving bit.

This little shock, repeated a few times should help to shift the stuck
latch that isn't working at the moment.

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Leah Ann - 23 Aug 2006 00:19 GMT

Graham,

Thanks for the advice. I just tried this and it didn't work. Anything
else i can try?

> > My cruise control switch is not staying punched in. This is the "Main"
> > button on the steering wheel. I can compress the button, I hear the
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Dorset UK Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
> Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

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Graham W - 23 Aug 2006 00:53 GMT

> Graham,
>
> Thanks for the advice. I just tried this and it didn't work. Anything
> else i can try?

It sounds like the switch needs to be replaced. Any chance that it's
still under warranty?

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Leah Ann - 23 Aug 2006 06:35 GMT

Haha! No, it's not under warranty. I drive my car a LOT. I bought it
new 2 1/2 years ago and it now has almost 65k miles. I keep it very
well maintained, though, and this is the only problem I've had with it
so far. (Of course, once I say that, I'll be bombarded with problems!)

The switch assembly is less than $30. It looks fairly easy to install
from what I've found in research. I just wanted to see if anyone out
there had done anything like this before (and if so, how difficult it
really was) and if there were any others that have had this problem. I
leave this button on all the time, since that's what the dealer
recommended, so it's not like pressing it caused it to wear out. I
think I've actually only pressed it about 5 times since I bought the
car. (Excepting the 1,000 times I've pressed it in the last 48 hours
trying to magically repair it. :o) ) I didn't even press it when it
broke. It was just up when I got in the car the other day. It was
extremely hot that day, so maybe the heat had something to do with it.
It just seemed odd that it would suddenly give out like that.

> > Graham,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Dorset UK Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
> Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

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Dick - 23 Aug 2006 15:09 GMT

>Haha! No, it's not under warranty. I drive my car a LOT. I bought it
>new 2 1/2 years ago and it now has almost 65k miles. I keep it very
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>there had done anything like this before (and if so, how difficult it
>really was)

If you do decide to change it yourself, remember that you are messing
with the air bag container. That's another reason I would leave it to
the dealer. At least disconnect the battery before you attempt it.

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Leah Ann - 23 Aug 2006 17:04 GMT

Thanks for the advice! Actually, the airbag assembly is a separate
part on the steering wheel. Check out Curly's link above and look at
the diagram. I guess it could be possible to somehow do something to
the airbag assembly, but if hitting the horn doesn't mess with it, I
wouldn't think unscrewing the cruise switch assembly would hurt it.
But, I definitely will disconnect the battery. Thanks!

> >Haha! No, it's not under warranty. I drive my car a LOT. I bought it
> >new 2 1/2 years ago and it now has almost 65k miles. I keep it very
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> with the air bag container. That's another reason I would leave it to
> the dealer. At least disconnect the battery before you attempt it.

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'Curly Q. Links' - 23 Aug 2006 04:34 GMT

------------------------------------------

The MAIN button is the one of the dash, and it's a 'latching' switch.
The one on the steering wheel is a 'momentary' switch. It's not supposed
to stay in. There's probably something wrong with your brake pedal /
switch that's telling the CRUISE not to stay engaged.

Are your brake lights all working correctly? Had an accident recently?

Got warranty?

'Curly'

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Leah Ann - 23 Aug 2006 06:15 GMT

Curly, thanks for your input, but my car is a 2004 Honda Accord Coupe
EX 4-cylinder 5-speed manual transmission. Perhaps you are thinking of
another model of vehicle? The only button on the dash besides the
radio, moonroof, and AC controls is the hazard button and I don't think
anyone would confuse that with the cruise control. There is NO cruise
button on the dash. There are four buttons on the steering wheel that
control the cruise, the main "Cruise" button, "Cancel" button, "Resume"
button, and "Set" button. (I guess some might say there are only three
buttons, as "Resume" and "Set" are located on opposite sides of a
joined button, but as they press down independently, I consider them
separate.)

The main "Cruise" button is the button I'm having issues with and is on
the steering wheel. This is the only "on" button for cruise control.
This button is labeled "Cruise" and when compressed (and yes, it does
stay down normally) a light on the instrument panel comes on which
reads "Cruise Main". Since this button compresses, and stays down, the
brake has no effect whatsoever on this button's functionality. The
cruise control is set with a separate button, also on the steering
wheel, and is labeled "Set." The "Set" button does not stay down when
pressed and it also causes another light on the instrument panel to
light, letting you know that cruise control is activated. After
pressing the "Set" button, cruise control can be deactivated by
touching the brake, clutch, or "Cancel" button, which is also located
on the steering wheel. This does not "turn off" cruise control, simply
deactivates cruising. Pressing the "Cruise" button again, causing it
to decompress or pop up, is the only way to "turn off" cruise control.
I think that pretty much explains the anatomy of the cruise switch
assembly on my steering wheel, excepting the "Resume" button, which I
don't really feel the need to go into at the moment. I will say that
it is functioning correctly.

Since the "Cruise" button won't stay down, I can manually hold it down,
then press the "Set" button, and the cruise will work until I press the
cancel button, brake, or clutch...or let go of the "Cruise" button.
So, I don't think that the problem can be with the brake or any other
switch, pedal, or button, since this appears to be working correctly.
I have an hour long commute and have had ample time to investigate all
of this. Not to mention that I have had this vehicle for over two and
a half years, often drive 500+ miles a day, and know the cruise
controls on my vehicle quite intimately.

> > My cruise control switch is not staying punched in. This is the "Main"
> > button on the steering wheel. I can compress the button, I hear the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

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'Curly Q. Links' - 23 Aug 2006 11:32 GMT

> Curly, thanks for your input, but my car is a 2004 Honda Accord Coupe
> EX 4-cylinder 5-speed manual transmission. Perhaps you are thinking of
> another model of vehicle?

---------------------------------------

I'm sure you're right. I'm thinking of the older models that I'm
familiar with. For your exploded views and parts diagrams, check out
www.slhondaparts.com It's probably easy to r&r that switch.

It sounds like you'll do OK.

'Curly'

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