 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Honda Cars / September 200699 honda accord, loss of power
Good Morning all Hope you can help or at least point me in the right direction. I have a 99 honda Accord, 4cyl VTEC. car starts great, runs well, idles fine.... just no power, acually midrange. I try to get on the highway... it just cant get out of its own way. but once i get up to 65-70...it will run fine, then hit a small grade... it just can't keep up.No check engine lite, so does this mean not an emmissions problem? or a non sensor problem? I did try injector cleanner, and better gas... no differance, changed air filter, still the same.The car has apox 131K miles thanks for your help Jeff > Good Morning all > Hope you can help or at least point me in the right direction. I have [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > thanks for your help > Jeff when was the timing belt changed? if it wasn't tensioned correctly it's skipped a tooth. When was a full tuneup (air filter, fuel filter, ignition wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor replaced, timing checked) last done? Were OEM parts used for these? While the fuel filter is not commonly a problem, nonetheless depending on your response to the above, I would suspect it and replace it first. Like you suspect, if the oxygen sensor is not working right, you really should have a check engine light with a code indicating the same for this model of car, plus other symptoms. > Good Morning all > Hope you can help or at least point me in the right [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > thanks for your help > Jeff ...hate to say... have NOT had the belt replaced...yet. (on the list of things to do) tune up was done about 30k when i got the car, however I didnt replace the wires.(OEM was NOT used) But i did use, I believe Sorenson parts. I have NOT replaced the fuel filter, mainly because.. I dont know were it is located. I will do some parts replacing tonite fuel filter, wires,.. timming belt over the weekend w/ waterpump. I did think about the tune up, but it doesnt miss or sputter, so I kinda ruled that out.Looks like i will start there and hopefully it will run like a champ as it did before. thanks again all Jeff > When was a full tuneup (air filter, fuel filter, ignition > wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor replaced, timing [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > thanks for your help > > Jeff > ...hate to say... have NOT had the belt replaced...yet. > (on the list of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > didnt replace > the wires.(OEM was NOT used) I would do these, with the fuel filter, at the same time. This may very well result in significant improvement immediately. > But i did use, I believe Sorenson parts. I > have NOT replaced the fuel filter, mainly because.. I dont > know were it > is located. FWIW, there are several free web sites, typically with drawings, that might help you with locating this. Maybe peruse the list at http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id9.html , for starters. If the timing belt is due, sure, get it done, because one rolls the dice on destroying the engine with a failed TB otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you described. > > ...hate to say... have NOT had the belt replaced...yet. > > (on the list of [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you > described. Another cause of loss of power that is often overlooked is a plugged catalytic converter though in this case would be an early occurrence. JT Well i looked up the fuel filter.... well its in the tank.. so im not sure if that will be the problem... basicaly a screen... > > ...hate to say... have NOT had the belt replaced...yet. > > (on the list of [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you > described. Oops. I was thinking of older Hondas, whose maintenance schedules do specify fuel filter replacement every 60k miles or so. Your 99 Accord's maintenance schedule has no such specification. I recall the filter not being where it is (on your Accord) for older Hondas, too. So, yes, I'd let this go for now, and keep investigating the other possible causes. > Well i looked up the fuel filter.... well its in the > tank.. [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >> otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you >> described. i just picked up a set of new plug wires ( originals were still on)put new set on....maybe a litte better but NOT THE PROBLEM. looked over wires ,vacum hoses,...could it be a cat converter... ok im throwing out a sugestion.. could i have a transmission problem not letting it shift properly.. > Oops. I was thinking of older Hondas, whose maintenance > schedules do specify fuel filter replacement every 60k miles [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > >> otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you > >> described. Spark plugs still the originals? Replace them with NGK's. NGK is one of the brands the 99 Accord owner's manual does recommend, and which many here use. Plugs are due for replacement at 30k miles/2 years for 4-cyl 99 Accords, so... IIRC twice this year people's bad running problems were simply due to needing new OEM plugs and/or wires. That ignition timing check should be done, too. New distributor cap and rotor are desirable as well. To start from a baseline. Automatic transmission fluid problems (being behind tranny shifting problems) do come up a lot here for late 90s Hondas. Specifically, it's very important to use Honda ATF, and change it per a recommended interval which I think may not be accurate in the owner's manual for some Honda models, if memory serves. Not my thing, though. Curly Q. Links, for one, is one of the regulars here who can discuss it. Or google the newsgroup archive for his posts on automatic tranny fluid in Hondas. Maybe JT ("Grumpy") can elaborate on the cat converter being behind the problems. When you get a chance, check the coolant level in the reservoir, and top off per the owner's manual. Keep an eye on it, and continue topping off until it reads from day to day what the owner's manual says. Your Accord's cooling system may be full of air, which the sensors for the system (sending signals to the car's computer) do not expect, so their signals can be messed up. But this is not my first candidate for the cause; just something else to eliminate completely. >i just picked up a set of new plug wires ( originals were >still on)put [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] >> >> otherwise. But I doubt it's behind the problem you >> >> described. HERE IT IS.....Your catalytic convertor is clogged or collapesed. Have someone hit the gas while you are at the tailpipe.....if not strong.....there it is. I would think the secondary O2 sensor would say something about this, since it's supposed to monitor cat converter performance, no? Yet the Accord seems to have no codes. Not ruling your and JT's proposal out. Just trying to learn. > HERE IT IS.....Your catalytic convertor is clogged or > collapesed. Have > someone hit the gas while you are at the tailpipe.....if > not > strong.....there it is. Ok upon more checking.... i got under the car as my son reved and let off the gas... i have a lot of noise (rattling)coming from the,,,,,,,,,C A T Does honda have a rev limiter so you cant over rev when in park? i can get it up to 4K and it starts poping , and also has a slight hesitation when you hit the gas quick...\ thats the update.... > I would think the secondary O2 sensor would say something > about this, since it's supposed to monitor cat converter [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > not > > strong.....there it is. If it's the converter, please let me know. I seen many instances where a tired/plugged one was a real power robber. JT > Ok upon more checking.... i got under the car as my son reved and let > off the gas... i have a lot of noise (rattling)coming from [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > > not > > > strong.....there it is. > If it's the converter, please let me know. I seen many instances where > a tired/plugged one was a real power robber. ------------------------------------------- You can remove the primary O2 sensor and see if power goes way up. It allows trapped exhaust gasses to escape, giving more power (if CAT is actually plugged). Same can be accomplished by putting the springs in wrong way so they hold the flanges apart, rather than together. I have the T-shirt. 'Curly' Hi Folks Many times it can be a worn out piston ring or valve. Many Honda's have this problem and many will say, "but I see no black smoke". Many times the smoke will not there. Are you noticing loss of oil after every few 1000 miles? Good luck.  Signatureclubplug http://www.automotiveforums.com no oil loss, about 1/2 qt every 35-4K tonite im going to do the .. pull the upper O2 sensor and see if performance improves... hope that works more i get into this thing,seem the top end is were the problem is.. it will hang at 4-6K RPM and i have to let off the gas to get it to shift up... like the old passing gear in the good old days.. Jeff > Hi Folks > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > http://www.automotiveforums.com OK GRUMPY...CURLY..... the verdict........................................................ CAT I pulled the front O2 sensor out, started it up, took it out for a short run...there was a differance, so i came back to the garage, was going to pull it off clear out the ceramic till i could get another CAT.. well bolts rusted up out of Acetalyne, so i just shook it, yup it's messed up.Looks like I will just let the muffer place do it now.. I want to thank all that helped get this honda fixed.. well diagnosed for now. Hope this may help some one else in the future Jeff > no oil loss, about 1/2 qt every 35-4K > tonite im going to do the .. pull the upper O2 sensor and see if [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > > > http://www.automotiveforums.com What caused it to clog seems an important question, though. Some ideas: http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalytic_converters.html http://stores.ebay.com/Xtremeflow-Motorsports/About-Catalytic-Converters.html http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question482.htm All cite or tend to point to among other things a defective O2 sensor or failure to do regular tuneups. Point being incorrect fuel/air mixtures in the engine cylinders exhaust bad (whatever) to the cat converter. "PB Blaster" is a great penetrating oil that typically helps a lot with exhaust system bolts. > OK GRUMPY...CURLY..... > the [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] >> > >> > http://www.automotiveforums.com |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.