there's things like this:
http://jgenginedynamics.com/2%2021%2007/JGE_MAG_H22A4.gif

but that's not "replacing the honda sleeves" in a way that replicates
factory.  factory casts slim iron sleeves into the aluminum of the
cylinder walls.  these sleeves cannot be replaced in the conventional
sense.  the "re-sleeve" operation shown above, and what you probably had
done, is in fact machining out a major structural component of the
motor, the cast in place cylinder walls, and replacing the whole shebang
with a replica cast iron block.

i'd not use that solution because:
1. it's not cast in, so is free to move slightly within the block.
that'll cause premature gasket failures.
2. it'll require some fancy sealing of the new sleeves to the aluminum
block, which i expect would be unreliable and probably compromise
thermal conductivity.
3. the new sleeves themselves will be poor thermally.  cast iron is a
good conductor, but it's nowhere near as good as aluminum.  the factory
thin iron sleeves cast into thick aluminum liners is a slick solution to
the need for wear resistance and the need to get rid of heat from a high
performance engine.  a hunking great iron block "re-sleeve" just isn't
going to be as good.

but why bother with this debate at all?  your original problem was
almost certainly misdiagnosed, the problem was compounded by the motor
not being adequately tested for irreparable flaws before work was done,
then this work was done.  and it failed.

sorry buddy, but you got hosed.  but that's not the car's fault.  just
replace the motor with jdm that's never been opened and f'ed with, then
be done with it.  never ever return to that shop again, and make sure no
one you know ever goes there either.