> now i figure
> that the electronic load detector [eld] was detecting low current and
> boosting revs to kick up output from a weak alternator.
Are you sure you have an ELD? I thought those only came in with the '92-'95
Civics.

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jim beam - 30 Apr 2007 14:00 GMT
>> now i figure
>> that the electronic load detector [eld] was detecting low current and
>> boosting revs to kick up output from a weak alternator.
>
> Are you sure you have an ELD? I thought those only came in with the '92-'95
> Civics.
yup, page 23-76 of the 89 civic shop manual.
Tegger - 30 Apr 2007 14:16 GMT
>>> now i figure
>>> that the electronic load detector [eld] was detecting low current
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>>
> yup, page 23-76 of the 89 civic shop manual.
Very interesting. The Integra of those same years didn't have one.

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jim beam - 01 May 2007 03:48 GMT
>>>> now i figure
>>>> that the electronic load detector [eld] was detecting low current
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Very interesting. The Integra of those same years didn't have one.
i'm surprised - i'd have thought that since all the control equipment is
in place with fuel injection, it would be a no-brainer. oh well.
> 1. you /do/ need to remove the driveshaft! don't waste time messing
> about. if you go straight there, it's quicker and simpler than messing
> about "trying to find a way". because there isn't one.
Havent had to remove the shaft on either of my 89's. Separating the
lower ball joint will give you enough room to remove the alternator.
> 2. mitsubishi alternators are unmaintainable. just toss it and get a
> nippon denso.
Had both and really didnt see any difference in build quality.
> but here's the real kicker:
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> good alternator with new brushes, electrical output is strong from idle,
> so no need for the eld to raise revs, hence problem solved.
But THIS little item is interesting. I'll have to add an alternator
output test when I had a wacky idle problem just to see if this happens
often.
Thanks for posting.
-SP
jim beam - 01 May 2007 04:00 GMT
>> 1. you /do/ need to remove the driveshaft! don't waste time messing
>> about. if you go straight there, it's quicker and simpler than
>> messing about "trying to find a way". because there isn't one.
>
> Havent had to remove the shaft on either of my 89's. Separating the
> lower ball joint will give you enough room to remove the alternator.
ok, let's put this another way - there's no exit path that doesn't
involve "contact" [read: "forcing"] without driveshaft removal. as you
say, you pop the lower joint, but from there it's a 1 minute job to
nudge the driveshaft end out and put it in a baggie to keep it clean.
"contact" is undesirable since it can damage the alternator, scratch the
driveshaft [which can initiate fatigue] and worse, damage the driveshaft
boot.
all that risk and no time saving? what a pointless exercise!
>> 2. mitsubishi alternators are unmaintainable. just toss it and get a
>> nippon denso.
>
> Had both and really didnt see any difference in build quality.
take them apart and lay the parts out together. in the nd, the
rectifiers are superior, the brushes replaceable and the bearings better.
>> but here's the real kicker:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> -SP