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Car Forum / Honda Cars / June 20071990 Accord charging problem
Have a 1990 Accord EX 210,000 mi. Battery light came on, took battery and alternator to A-Z for check, Battery was bad, alternator said good. Put in new battery and battery light came on a few miles later. Battery voltage 12.54 with car off, 12.28 when running. Replaced alternator, same results. Looks like alternator is not kicking on for some reason? HELP? > Have a 1990 Accord EX 210,000 mi. Battery light came on, took battery > and alternator to A-Z for check, Battery was bad, alternator said > good. Put in new battery and battery light came on a few miles later. > Battery voltage 12.54 with car off, 12.28 when running. Replaced > alternator, same results. Looks like alternator is not kicking on for > some reason? HELP? =============================== Too bad you swapped the alternator. Usually you can just slip in a new set of brushes into a Honda alternator without even removing the unit. They probably charged a ton of labor to get that sucker out, right? Now it's hard to know if the 'new' alternator is the real problem. Do you suspect they don't have a clue? 'Curly' > =============================== > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > 'Curly' I replaced the alternator, it wasn't really that hard. AutoZone did check the original and said that it was good so I stuck it back in along with a new battery. When the battery light came back on I figured that maybe the alternator was intermittently bad??? because there was only 12.5 volts. So I replace it. Light is still on and new alternator doesn't seem to be charging either. Dash Fuse #2 is good. Alt plug black/yellow wire to ground with ignition on shows 12.5v, also green/white to ground Battery light not on with alt plug disconnected Battery light comes on when jumper white/blue wire to ground I must be overlooking something simple?? >> =============================== >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >along with a new battery. When the battery light came back on I >figured that maybe the alternator was intermittently bad??? That can happen. Mine was intermittantly bad for several months before I had time to deal with it. I would tap it with a stick to "reseat" the brushes. because >there was only 12.5 volts. So I replace it. Light is still on and new >alternator doesn't seem to be charging either. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >I must be overlooking something simple?? I got a tech sheet with my new Alternator. Said if you just changed the alternator and it is still not charging the ELECTRIC LOAD DETECTOR may be looking for and electrical load before the ECU will allow the alternator to turn on; it does this through the C terminal. Says with the engine running at fast idle, turn the headlights on for 30 seconds, turn them off and proceed with a standard charging system test. WIth all accessories off, if the charging system still fails to reach at least 13 volts with the engine at fast idle, shut engine off. Remove 'C" terminal from the 4 pin alternator plug by releasing the locking tab with a thin screwdriver Reinstall the plug. If the systems now charges normally, the ECU or the ELD may be defective. Consult a qualified technician. "C" wire is white/yellow, by the way. verbatim from my tech tip sheet that came with my alternator. Hope this helps Frank > I got a tech sheet with my new Alternator. Said if you just changed > the alternator and it is still not charging the ELECTRIC LOAD DETECTOR [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Frank Just tried that and still does not charge! Where is the ELD anyway? Thanks for the info. Mark >> I got a tech sheet with my new Alternator. Said if you just changed >> the alternator and it is still not charging the ELECTRIC LOAD DETECTOR [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >Thanks for the info. >Mark ELD unit is located in the relay box on the passenger side, engine comprartment. Has a three pin connector on it (black, grn/red, blk/yel) Disconnect the connector, turn the ignition on, check for voltage between blk/yel and black. If not look for an open or poor ground. if there is voltage check for voltage between grn/red terminal and the body ground. should see approximately 5 volts. If not check for a code 20 on the ECU self diagnostic and go through the trouble shooting flow chart. If there is voltage recconect the 3 pin to the ELD. Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and the body ground with the ignition switch on and the headlights on low beam. Should be approximately 2 volts. If not replace relay box, ELD not available separately If voltage as specified, ELD is OK. From factory manual Frank | I must be overlooking something simple?? Yes, a *, took me a few hours to find & mitigate. www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm >| I must be overlooking something simple?? > >Yes, a *, took me a few hours to find & mitigate. >www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm Mitigate what? >> | I must be overlooking something simple?? >> >> Yes, a *, took me a few hours to find & mitigate. >> www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm > > Mitigate what? evidence of sanity. >> Have a 1990 Accord EX 210,000 mi. Battery light came on, took battery >> and alternator to A-Z for check, Battery was bad, alternator said [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Too bad you swapped the alternator. Usually you can just slip in a new > set of brushes into a Honda alternator without even removing the unit. depends on the alternator - on the civics, the mitsubishi brushes are not replaceable. > They probably charged a ton of labor to get that sucker out, right? > Now it's hard to know if the 'new' alternator is the real problem. Do > you suspect they don't have a clue? > > 'Curly' |
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