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Car Forum / Honda Cars / August 2007'98 Accord, New Brakes, Advice?
Hi Group, It is time for new brake pads on my favorite Honda. I've read the FAQ, nice job Tegger. Any Other advice? The dealer wants $112 for two wheels, front or rear, and I've been told to expect pads to cost around $60. This does not include rebuilding calipers, which he doesn't do without cause(leaks etc). I'm a decent wrench, with normal backyard tools, so am considering doing it myself. There is also a TSB #03078, regarding the brake light. I believe it involves replacing a filter at the reservoir. Has anyone done this? Al G You can do it youself by following a generic manual. It's better to use genuine Honda pads. Wl Al G wrote: > Hi Group, > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Al G honda brakes are soooooo easy to do forget paying someone put the saved $$$$ toward new slotted / drilled bremo rotors and maybe carbon matalic pads like i did you will stop firmer / little quicker got my rotors off ebay + very happy so far > Hi Group, > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Al G Buy Honda, little more expense, but worth it! Check with the manual, but remove the bottom caliper bolt, swing up the caliper, remove the old pads put in the new with the shims, swing down caliper, put bolt back in and you are done! Forgot, the c clamp to push the pistons back in. The master cyl filter, simple...also replace the float!, the new filter has 2 slots on top, for proper venting, no more BRAKE light! >> Hi Group, >> [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > has 2 slots on > top, for proper venting, no more BRAKE light! Thanks, I always feel better about getting into a job after talking with someone who has done it. Al G > Hi Group, > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Al G I did the brake pads on my '98 Accord this weekend, and learned a couple of things. >You can do it yourself by following a generic manual. It's better to use >genuine Honda pads. >Wl The generic manual did not work. It gives a procedure for the front brakes, but does not mention anything about the rear brakes which are different. The rear calipers don't swing up, the e brake mechanism is in the way. Also, the calipers can't be opened with a clamp or caliper spreaders like the front. They are threaded, and required yet another "special" tool. Nice thing to find out after your transportation is spread out all over the carport. >Buy Honda, little more expense, but worth it! Check with the manual, but >remove the bottom caliper bolt, swing up the caliper, remove the old pads >put in the new with the shims, swing down caliper, put bolt back in and you >are done! Forgot, the c clamp to push the pistons back in. A little more expensive? $118 for the pads alone. In general I don't mind spending a little more for Honda parts. They fit, they work, and they provide the wear indicator that saved me damage to my disks. >The master cyl filter, simple...also replace the float!, the new filter has >2 slots on top, for proper venting, no more BRAKE light! Apparently the '98 is not affected by this TSB(03078). The '98 has no filter. The TSB procedure requires replacing the float, which solved my problem. It took me several hours using the POS scissors jack, and the stock lug wrench. I believe that if I had access to air tools and a lift, I could have done it much quicker. The dealer wants $224 in labor, which seems absurd to me. My local parts shop that sent me home with an $18 caliper spreader that didn't work on the rear, and a $20 manual that didn't say sh.t, has earned a new place in my heart. I'm a pilot, and if anyone is hurt by a falling "Generic" Honda manual, come see me. Al G > The generic manual did not work. It gives a procedure for the front > brakes, but does not mention anything about the rear brakes which are [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Nice thing to find out after your transportation is spread out all over the > carport. Check out the Pep Boys' line of Haynes. Those tell you to use a plier to turn the rear pistons. Some in this group use a large screwdriver. However, your local Harbor Freight has a set of caliper retracting tool kit on sale now for $19.99 (reg $29.99). That's what I got for a variety of cars. The flat disc works on regular calipers. Then you pick the pronged disc that fits the rear piston pattern and turn. Much better than the cube type tool. Don't try the cubes I'll say. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=239 Note: you can borrow these (many other tools too like a torque wrench) at many AutoZones, Kragen, Advanced Auto, Murray's and Pep Boys free (with deposit). > A little more expensive? $118 for the pads alone. In general I don't > mind spending a little more for Honda parts. They fit, they work, and they > provide the wear indicator that saved me damage to my disks. $118 for the Honda pads alone? The ones I've seen are usually around $50 a set (axle). I personally don't care for the Nissin, Findlex and something else I can't remember Honda is using these days. I'd go for the Akebono ProAct ceramic. Comes with (adhesive) noise shims already applied (on the later kits). www.akebonobrakes.com > It took me several hours using the POS scissors jack, and the stock lug > wrench. I believe that if I had access to air tools and a lift, I could have > done it much quicker. The dealer wants $224 in labor, which seems absurd to > me. Agreed. Brake jobs are usually farmed out to the rookie mechanic: those who just graduated from oil changes making minimum wage. The service manager takes a cut of the difference between what you hand them and what they hand the mechanic. That way they make real $$$$$ and build nice waiting areas. ;) > My local parts shop that sent me home with an $18 caliper spreader that > didn't work on the rear, and a $20 manual that didn't say sh.t, has earned a > new place in my heart. I'm a pilot, and if anyone is hurt by a falling > "Generic" Honda manual, come see me. What "Generic" manual did you get? And the $18 spreader? I'd also flush the system with 1qt of Castrol GT LMA (Low Moisture Activity) or Valvoline Syntec brake fluids. Good stuff. Didn't care for the CCI brake fluids made for Asian imports -- absorbs moisture too easily and after a while gets bad lubricity (squeaky master cylinder). Use a PowerBleeder for fast one-person brake bleeding. www.motiveproducts.com |
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