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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 2007

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94-97 how to replace front wheel stud?  DIY?

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g20zoom@gmail.com - 14 Aug 2007 17:06 GMT
Hi,
I have a 97 accord.  I have a bad front wheel stud.  When they changed
my tires, I noticed that the studs are on a circular plate bolted to
the top of the rotor.

Easy enough...I can remove 4 bolts, then take the plate off with
studs.   Since I have not done this before, I don't know if I need a
press to remove and install a new stud.  Or can I pound them in and
out?

Anyone know this?  Would be great to know before I try to tackle this!

Thanks!

-joe
Tegger - 14 Aug 2007 17:56 GMT
g20zoom@gmail.com wrote in news:1187107569.086486.29750
@g12g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

> Hi,
> I have a 97 accord.  I have a bad front wheel stud.  When they changed
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> press to remove and install a new stud.  Or can I pound them in and
> out?

I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the way
of pounding the studs out.

Get behind the knuckle with a strong light and see if the stud heads appear
to have room to exit to the inboard side. I don't think it's possible.

If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make the
rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to the
steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle before the
rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.

I suspect you'll need to remove the steering knuckle from the car and have
a garage press everything apart so the stud can be changed.

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The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

g20zoom@gmail.com - 14 Aug 2007 19:10 GMT
> I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the way
> of pounding the studs out.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> steering knuckle. The hub needs to be pressed off the knuckle before the
> rotor can be removed. The pressing part is NOT a DIY job.

Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs.  On the other cars
I've had 91 civic, 99 accord, I think I know what you mean that there
are 4 phillip screws and the studs come from behind the rotor.  On
this Accord though, it seems like the studs are up front on this
disc.  Much different setup.

For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.

> I suspect you'll need to remove the steering knuckle from the car and have
> a garage press everything apart so the stud can be changed.

Well...let me unbolt it tonite...and see what I find.  I'll keep you
posted and maybe get a picture or something.

> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/
Tegger - 14 Aug 2007 19:44 GMT
>> I think you'll find the splash shield and steering knuckle are in the
>> way of pounding the studs out.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Well it really did seem like the plate with four 12 or 14mm head
> bolts(not phillips screw type) holds the studs.

It does. It's just that that "plate" is the hub, which is pressed on to
the knuckle along with the wheel bearing. You can't remove that "plate"
just by undoing the bolts you see there.

>  On the other cars
> I've had 91 civic, 99 accord, I think I know what you mean that there
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
> it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.

Then maybe there IS room to hammer the stud out the back without
removing the hub. The rotor does have reliefs around the studs, so it
would only depend on there being clearance between the knuckle and the
hub so the studs can be withdrawn out the back.

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g20zoom@gmail.com - 14 Aug 2007 20:26 GMT
> >> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is make
> >> the rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is pressed on to
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> the knuckle along with the wheel bearing. You can't remove that "plate"
> just by undoing the bolts you see there.

Ah...I catch you now.  So the plate is press onto the hub. bummer.

> > For what it's worth, shops are quoting $30 parts/labor, so I imagine
> > it's easier than those other hondas with a hub/knuckle deal.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks for that additional info.  I guess I'll mirror behind the rotor
and see if I can see the stud holes and where the knuckle comes into
play.   Then whack way.  Assuming I get it out, how do I get the new
one squished into the plate?  I think I read somewhere where I can put
an open ended lug nut and crank it down.  I don't have one...but I can
pick one up.

-joe
Tegger - 15 Aug 2007 03:09 GMT
>> >> If you remove those four bolts you mention, all you will do is
>> >> make the rotor loose; the rotor is behind the hub, which is
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Ah...I catch you now.  So the plate is press onto the hub. bummer.

That "plate" IS the hub.

And I see someone called "g20zoom" has chimed in, speaking from practical
experience. What he says makes sense.

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Tegger - 15 Aug 2007 22:07 GMT
> And I see someone called "g20zoom" has chimed in, speaking from
> practical experience. What he says makes sense.

Dr0pZ0n3 chimed in, not g20zoom! I was looking at the wrong post!

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 14 Aug 2007 22:48 GMT
if the stud you're changing is broken you can just pound it back, and it
will fall out... the interference with getting the new one in can be
fixed if you have a grinder... you take the new stud, and where the
head is on the top of it, you just grind one side to a flat edge, so
when you're looking at it, it looks kinda like a "D" but don't grind
down into the shaft of the stud...

When you go to put the ground down one back in, just make sure that the
ground part is facing the inside of the assembly, and push it straight
in..

As far as drawing them in, yes, you can do it with an open ended lug,
BUT make sure you're not dragging the threads of the stud in the hole,
as this will crush them, and they're not nearly as easy to get out when
they're not broken.

also, if you're replacing more than one, drive your car at a low-normal
speed and take lots of turns for about 15-20 mins, then retighten all
the lugs on that wheel... this will ensure proper seating of the studs.

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inafogg - 15 Aug 2007 20:44 GMT
if you what to DIY listen to dropzone he's done it & so have i or take
it to shop to have it pressed off & on

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jim beam - 15 Aug 2007 03:40 GMT
> Hi,
> I have a 97 accord.  I have a bad front wheel stud.  When they changed
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> -joe

the "official" method is remove the knuckle, press out the hub center,
press out the stud, replace stud and reassemble.  but you can also do it
by cutting away part of the splash guard to get access.  but that's a
cheap and dirty fix.  you can probably buy a whole new knuckle with hub
from a junk yard for less than it'll cost you to mess about like that.

whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
bearings.
Tegger - 15 Aug 2007 03:43 GMT
jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in news:T5KdnQs0hqIq-
l_bnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:

> whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
> bearings.

In the case of removing old studs, pounding is OK. They're not in there
/that/ tightly. Takes a hell of a whack to damage wheel bearings.

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jim beam - 15 Aug 2007 03:58 GMT
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in news:T5KdnQs0hqIq-
> l_bnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> In the case of removing old studs, pounding is OK. They're not in there
> /that/ tightly. Takes a hell of a whack to damage wheel bearings.

via the wheel/tire, yes.  but not with a hammer direct to the hub.  it's
one of the commonest bearing failure modes these days since seals, lube
and bearing quality is so good.
g20zoom@gmail.com - 17 Aug 2007 17:33 GMT
> the "official" method is remove the knuckle, press out the hub center,
> press out the stud, replace stud and reassemble.  but you can also do it
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> whatever you do though, do NOT pound on the hub - you'll damage the
> bearings.- Hide quoted text -

Hey, check out this tool!!!!!
http://www.try-intools.com/video.html
http://www.try-intools.com/instruct.html

or search for "accord hub remover" on ebay.  Runs about $150 shipped.
A tad expensive for my one time job, but someone may find it useful if
it works.  If someone has tried it, let us know!

-joe
g20zoom@gmail.com - 18 Aug 2007 07:42 GMT
Thanks for everyone's help!

Here's what I did:
1. unbolt wheel - that was fine, but my steel wheel was stuck to the
hub.  What a PITA!  Never had this happen before...i wacked the wheel
a bunch of times from behind with a mallet...
and did some prying, finally came off
2. remove brake caliper!  I figured this out later...for a while
there, I couldn't figure after whacking the wheel stud, how I would
remove it.  After undoing both caliper bolts, that left a big open
space for the stud to fall out.  Plenty of room.
3.  turn hub to the brake opening and hammer out stud.
4. push new stud in with a little oil.  tap in with a punch to get it
started.
5. used a open ended lug and cranked it down to pull stud through hub
plate by hand, then with an impact gun

Well...it's not that hard after the fact, but i finally figured out I
needed step 2.  Duh!  I did have to pound the heck out of the wheel
stud, a little uncomfortable for the wheel bearing but I had to do
it.  I did put some oil at the base of it, but maybe I didn't wait
long enough.  After a few shots of oil....a few more minutes of
tapping the stud in different directions, then hitting  the wheel stud
straight on, it started to move out.  Part of the problem was that
this side previously had a caliper lock up, so the previous owner said
the wheel was smoking.  The extra heat and rust probably seized it up
a bit more than normal.

out with the old, in with the new.  No need to cut the new one in a D
shape.  Plenty of room where the brake caliper was.
Was it worth the $30??? no way!!  but at least it's done!

btw...and impact gun was needed for the brake bolts.  When some shop
did the brake caliper, they cranked down the brake mounting bolts!!
Dr0pZ0n3 - 15 Aug 2007 22:32 GMT
heh, it happens... at least you realised it tho @ tegger :P

i was kinda wondering wtf you were talking about... cuz g20zoom is the
threadstarter and all... why would he have sensible knowledge of his
own problem... ya know? lol no matter tho.

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 18 Aug 2007 22:00 GMT
those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
100-115 lb/ft^2

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jim beam - 19 Aug 2007 00:57 GMT
> those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
> cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
> 100-115 lb/ft^2

force per area is the unit of pressure.  torque is force per distance,
not area.  torque is typically N.m or ft.lbs, so no divisor and no
"squared".

and to be clear, honda lug nuts are typically torqued to 80 ft.lbs or
110 N.m.
g20zoom@gmail.com - 20 Aug 2007 18:14 GMT
On Aug 18, 2:00 pm, Dr0pZ0n3 <Dr0pZ0n3.2vj...@no-mx.nodomain.com>
wrote:
> those bolts should be cranked... not necessarily with an impact, but
> cranked none-the-less. I think the torque spec is something like
> 100-115 lb/ft^2
>
> --
> Dr0pZ0n3

I know....but i was just trying to draw the stud into the plate.  It
was turning when I tried to wrench it in with an open ended lug, so
some light impact action did the trick without holding anything else.

btw, is there a reason why some 3 leg puller won't work on that
circular plate pressed on the wheel hub?

-j
Dr0pZ0n3 - 20 Aug 2007 02:38 GMT
heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
"pounds per square foot." you're torquing to a given pressure. the
purpose of torquing a nut and bolt assembly is to allow frictional
forces to maintain a certain pressure over a given AREA of the
contacted surfaces... in other words, when you torque the nut and bolt
to 80 lb.ft., you're torquing them to 80 lbs per Ft^2 of contact
surface area... Don't try to school me.. I'm here for a reason.

and he wasn't talking about the lugnuts... he was talking about the
caliper retainer to hub mount bolts.

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jim beam - 20 Aug 2007 03:36 GMT
> heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
> "pounds per square foot." you're torquing to a given pressure. the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> and he wasn't talking about the lugnuts... he was talking about the
> caliper retainer to hub mount bolts.

dude, ft.lbs are not lbs/ft^2.

ft^2 is area.  and you're dividing to get pressure.

with torque, there's only one ft, and it's times, not divide.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque

perhaps the confusion is that when you lean on that wrench, you're
exerting force, not pressure.
Tony Harding - 03 Oct 2007 03:32 GMT
> heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
> "pounds per square foot."

It's always amusing to read posts by some totally oblivious poster. BTW,
I have a torque wrench, it's calibrated in Nm - does that mean it's not
metric?

I guess Car & Driver and Snap-On have it all wrong:

http://www.caranddriver.com/glossary/4534/caranddrivercom-glossary-of-terms.html
#pound-feet


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55265&group_ID=954
&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


Maybe you should drop them an email and straighten them out? I'm sure
they'd be very grateful.
AZ Nomad - 03 Oct 2007 03:58 GMT
>> heh... read a torque wrench.. it's measured in ft.lbs... which is
>> "pounds per square foot."

>It's always amusing to read posts by some totally oblivious poster. BTW,
>I have a torque wrench, it's calibrated in Nm - does that mean it's not
>metric?

pounds per square foot?  
That's the funniest sh.t I've read all week.

I guess that explains why torque wrenches are always inflatable.
Dr0pZ0n3 - 21 Aug 2007 23:53 GMT
yeah, a 3 leg (crow's foot) puller is usually for anything riding on a
central shaft... they work by putting pressure against the backside of
the object you're trying to remove, which is done by applying pressure
to the front side of the object it's riding on... simply put, there is
no center "shaft" in a hub bearing.... so no, it wouldn't work w/o
modifying the design of the pulling... which completely defeats the
purpose of using it.

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 22 Aug 2007 00:02 GMT
I apologize for saying that incorrectly, I should have mentioned that
the pressure spec is 100-115 lb/ft^2 (the amount of pressure applied to
release the bolt)

Jim Beam, before posting an arguement, whether you're right or not,
read your own posted links... b/c you're actually right about the
torque versus pressure thing, but wrong about the factor of
multiplication.

taken from wiki article "torque":
Since energy can be thought of as the result of "force times distance",
energy is always a scalar whereas torque is "force cross distance" and
so is a (pseudo) vector-valued quantity.

Force cross distance refers to a 1:1 relationship, hence, no
multiplication or division, no adding or subtracting.

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Graham W - 22 Aug 2007 02:19 GMT
> I apologize for saying that incorrectly, I should have mentioned that
> the pressure spec is 100-115 lb/ft^2 (the amount of pressure applied
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Force cross distance refers to a 1:1 relationship, hence, no
> multiplication or division, no adding or subtracting.

You are still adrift here.

100 ft.lbs of torque (turning moment) may be acheived by pulling
1 lbforce on a 100ft bar or 100lbforce on a 1ft bar or 25lbforce
on a 4ft bar or ANY combination which results in a PRODUCT
of 100ft.lbs..

HTH

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jim beam - 22 Aug 2007 04:26 GMT
> I apologize for saying that incorrectly, I should have mentioned that
> the pressure spec is 100-115 lb/ft^2 (the amount of pressure applied to
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Force cross distance refers to a 1:1 relationship, hence, no
> multiplication or division, no adding or subtracting.

no dude.  you're confusing force with pressure.  when you wrench, that's
/force/.  torque is force times leverage.  pressure is force /divided/
by sq ft.  at some time or other, we've all had teachers we've
subsequently learned to have gotten stuff wrong - you had one of those.
Dr0pZ0n3 - 22 Aug 2007 03:27 GMT
The "confusion" that I experienced when I misquoted was that I
transposed the theories of "torque manipulation" and "force exertion"
since torque can be displayed as an application of pressure, in terms
that pressure can be translated as force...

Either way, this thread has reached it's pinnacle of usefulness, and
we're way off topic...

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 22 Aug 2007 03:43 GMT
By the way, simple equation for a math scholar to check out algorithmic
programs for accuracy:  [(e^(pi)) - (pi)]

The answer should always come to 20... unless your Floating Point
Handlers have rounding errors. This is standard to test your system for
data compliance.

(.ti evol attog ..romuH .979990999.91 ot emoc dluohs rewsna eht ...ekoj
a si siht ,yaw eht yB)

And in case you're wondering, about 10 seconds.

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 23 Aug 2007 01:18 GMT
Look... you're now argueing with yourself... that little blurb came
right from the article that you pointed me to... on wiki... meaning
that you didn't even know what you were posting...

"Force cross Distance" is the proper terminology for torque... meaning
that the relationship is 1:1.

As far as what you're saying, I understand that, and I already
corrected myself for... The place that confused me isn't on you to
decide, I'm quite well aware of what I mistook.

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jim beam - 23 Aug 2007 04:05 GMT
> Look... you're now argueing with yourself... that little blurb came
> right from the article that you pointed me to... on wiki... meaning
> that you didn't even know what you were posting...

do you always insult people trying to help you?

> "Force cross Distance" is the proper terminology for torque... meaning
> that the relationship is 1:1.

it's not "Force cross Distance" it's 'force x distance' or 'force times
distance' or 'force multiplied by distance' or even 'force.distance'.
it's a math thing.  and there's no way that means "1:1".

> As far as what you're saying, I understand that, and I already
> corrected myself for... The place that confused me isn't on you to
> decide, I'm quite well aware of what I mistook.

also, life would be easier if you used a proper news reader to access
this group - the web forum portal you're using is not threading properly.
Dr0pZ0n3 - 23 Aug 2007 06:50 GMT
dude... that "force cross distance thing" CAME FROM THE ARTICLE THAT YOU
POSTED... could you be more ignorant?  Since it came from the article
that YOU POSTED WHILE TRYING TO PROVE ME WRONG, that must mean that you
also were wrong, since you were quoting an unknown or unchecked source..
*and yes, when you post a website for research purposes, you are, in
fact, quoting it.* And now, after all, to add to the stupidity, you're
debating with material taken IN CONTEXT from your source... you may be
smart enough to catch the follies of those who don't stay up late at
night planning every single word they type, like you, but you're still
not intelligent enough to realize that A) your kind of help isn't
welcome, and B) no matter how much you want to believe that you're
always correct about everything, you're not.

Did I hit pretty close to home there? GOOD. Stop tearing this thread to
sh.t b/c you feel like making yourself look smarter than you actually
are... ffs, I mis-posted a single damn word, and you're jumping all
over it like someone is going to die as a result of my inherent
penchance (sp) for mistyping small bits of info when I've just woken
after long nights of not sleeping BECAUSE I HAVE A LIFE, outside of
calling the most sophomoric mistakes of those attempting to save
someone some money becuase for f.ck's sake, we all know that noone in
this country needs any more of that... <./sarcasm -off>

as far as using a better portal to access the thread... lmao.. I'm
using the site the damn thing is hosted on... it can't get much better
than that.

and as far as insulting the ppl trying to help me, YES I insult those
who give unsolicited help and then proceed to condescend the one who
didn't ask for the help in the first place....

so in closing, I"d just like to ask one thing... ARE YOU DONE YET?

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jim beam - 23 Aug 2007 13:40 GMT
> dude... that "force cross distance thing" CAME FROM THE ARTICLE THAT YOU
> POSTED... could you be more ignorant?  Since it came from the article
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> using the site the damn thing is hosted on... it can't get much better
> than that.

newsgroups are not web portals.  you email client almost certainly
contains usenet reader capability - and it will support threading.

> and as far as insulting the ppl trying to help me, YES I insult those
> who give unsolicited help and then proceed to condescend the one who
> didn't ask for the help in the first place....
>
> so in closing, I"d just like to ask one thing... ARE YOU DONE YET?

no, "cross product" means "multiply".  "force cross distance" means
"multiply" but as a vector - which is not of interest in this case.

but if you don't want to know, you don't want to know.
Joe LaVigne - 23 Aug 2007 13:41 GMT
> as far as using a better portal to access the thread... lmao.. I'm
> using the site the damn thing is hosted on... it can't get much better
> than that.

"Dude"...   The thing ain't hosted on any site.  This is a usenet
newsgroup, not a web forum.  Just because google happens to also provide
access to it doesn't mean that they host it.

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 23 Aug 2007 20:39 GMT
Actually, it IS hosted on a web server... it's called " www.automotive
forums.com " which is exactly where I get access to it.

Automotive Forums  > Unmoderated Usenet Topics  > Honda would be the
path FROM the server that this is HOSTED ON to get to this particular
area... ;)

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jim beam - 24 Aug 2007 03:33 GMT
> Actually, it IS hosted on a web server... it's called " www.automotive
> forums.com " which is exactly where I get access to it.

check out:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet

your access is via a portal - usenet is not hosted on a web server.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet#Web_interfaces

your portal is not threading correctly.  if you use a proper news
reader, you will have a much better experience.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet#Newsreader_clients

> Automotive Forums  > Unmoderated Usenet Topics  > Honda would be the
> path FROM the server that this is HOSTED ON to get to this particular
> area... ;)
Joe LaVigne - 24 Aug 2007 04:06 GMT
> Actually, it IS hosted on a web server... it's called " www.automotive
> forums.com " which is exactly where I get access to it.
>
> Automotive Forums  > Unmoderated Usenet Topics  > Honda would be the
> path FROM the server that this is HOSTED ON to get to this particular
> area... ;)

No, fuckhead, this is a usenet group.  It is not hosted on any
particular server, and it is not accessible from the Web.

The forum that you are a member of has installed a web portal to the
news group.  They do not host the group, they mirror it.  

I think you just lost your argument.  It is pretty clear that you are
intent on arguing points that you have absolutely no clue about.  Have a
nice life, dipshit...

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Dr0pZ0n3 - 24 Aug 2007 06:40 GMT
I'm quite aware of what usenet is, and how it's accessed... thank you.

This "mirror" that you speak of, well, it's an image... just like any
mirror.. it holds an "identical image of what is being mirrored"...
correct?

Now.. that would mean that although UseNet is not in fact hosted on a
webserver, this particular "mirror" is... so I'm still correct in that
sense..

Still, to end this petty bullshit, no matter who may have been wrong or
right, the point is that this thread has gotten so far off topic that
it's utterly worthless to continue posting.

I mentioned this earler, to no avail, in an attempt to end the
argument, which should never have started.. after finding that I
mis-quoted myself, I corrected myself, only to find that certain people
in this world are entirely unwilling to let something go as a mistake,
and must take time out of their lives to attempt to belittle others in
a futile effort to make themselves seem smarter.

It never works.

End it.. it's pointless, just get over it, and get back to your damn
lives.

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Dr0pZ0n3

http://www.automotiveforums.com

 
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