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Car Forum / Honda Cars / August 2007Bulk vs. Bottled oil at places like Jiffy Lube
I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any quality or performance difference between the bulk oil they use or the optional bottled oil (penzoil) that they offer for $10-$15 more? I have heard many horror stories regarding Jiffy Lube, although I guess I am lucky with 220K on my Honda Accord. Taking my car to the dealer just for an oil change on the road seems ridiculous. Just wondeingr what others look for in an oil-change place to insure quality work (those who fear Jiffy Lube) when they can't do it themselves. Thanks > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > themselves. > Thanks Around here the Honda dealers typically charge from 22.95 to 25.99 for an oil change and generally get you out within an hour. I personally have never been in a quick change place, but everyone I know who goes to them always seem to end up with a bill of 40 or more. There is nothing inherently wrong with bulk oil, so long as what's in the barrel is what's supposed to be in it. I'm sure some dealerships use bulk, but I'd feel more confident that it's what it is supposed to be - and you get a Honda brand filter instead of ???. > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > themselves. > Thanks The bulk oil is the same as what's in the bottles. I have actually delivered the stuff into the tanks. The good Lube places will have all the grades, i.e. 0-30, 5-30, 10-30, 10-40 or whatever. The bad places just order 10-30 and put it in every car, but they are usually auto shops, not lube places. In my opinion, they charge way too much anymore for an oil change and many use the cheapest oil filters to boot. If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the bulk tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with that line. dan > If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the bulk > tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with that line. Either the bulk stuff is all one grade--and cheap to boot--or else they're charging $15 for the privilege of your being able to watch it come out of the sealed, name-brand bottles. My guess is the former. >> If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the bulk >> tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with that line. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > My guess is the former. Your guess would be wrong. As someone who has actually worked at a JL (needed money while in school and they were hiring) I can say that the bulk is NOT all the same grade. Yes it is cheaper, because they are OWNED by an oil company and the franchises get a discount off wholesale prices as well. The normal stock is Shell 5W30, 10W30, 15W50 Rotella, Dexron II and ATF. They also stock bulk synthetic in 5W30 and 10W30. The reason the bottles are more money is real easy. Personal preference. Some people don't like Shell oil and prefer Pennzoil. They are also convinced that the bulk oil HAS to be garbage so they buy the Pennzoil, thinking it is better. Royal Dutch / Shell (SOPUS) owns Quaker State and Pennzoil.  SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York >>> If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the >>> bulk tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > thinking it is better. > Royal Dutch / Shell (SOPUS) owns Quaker State and Pennzoil. pretty sure they also own iffy lube... >>>> If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the >>>> bulk tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> > pretty sure they also own iffy lube... If JL stocks different grades of oil, why are they incapable of understanding that VW engines don't like 10W30? I gave up on JL years ago even though my cars weren't anything special simply because I got sick of listening to the lifters clatter. This is not an issue specific to one location either, I am stubborn and kept going back and insisting on 10W40 or 15W50 and kept getting the wrong stuff. The convenience of a quick, no-appointment oil change is nice, but ONLY IF THEY DO IT RIGHT! The last straw was when they filled my windshield washer bottle with water. In December. Right before I left to visit my family in PA for Christmas. Never went back after that. Basically, my advice is, if you care about your car, you will not go to Jiffy Lube under any circumstances. I don't think I've ever had a GOOD experience there; simply technicians trying to upsell me with overpriced air filters ("your air filter is dirty" even though I know they didn't check it as it's under the AFM/fuel distributor,) wiper blades, etc. and pointing out that the oil pan gasket on my 240K mile beater is weeping a little oil. I've also had to remind them to check the gear oil in the transaxle, even though it's on their checklist (at one point in time, I had a leaking output shaft seal that didn't go away with a new seal, and I didn't have time to change out the transaxle for a couple months.) The best I've had is a "not too bad" experience, but now that I have my own garage I don't have any use for 'em. My FLAPS takes my drain oil, too, and a DIY oil change with Rotella and a Wix filter costs less than a JL oil change. A good, trusted mechanic can't be beat, JL is for people who like wasting money. If you're not going to do it yourself, suck it up, make an appointment, wait a couple hours (or better yet, find one near work and drop it off in the morning.) nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel >>>> If Pennzoil is the optional "upgrade" oil, then what crap is in the >>>> bulk tank? I bet they are just milking the customer even more with [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> > pretty sure they also own iffy lube... Yep, Which is why they stock bulk Shell oil and upgrade is Pennzoil. SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York On Aug 15, 2:57 pm, techman41...@yahoo.com wrote: > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Don't ever take your car to Jiffy Lube. They've been busted by local news for not changing oil filters. http://youtube.com/watch?v=wiCAJ8ULnaI > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Dealerships are everywhere, and they know they need to compete with those guys. There is absolutely no NEED to get your oil changed at places like Jiffy Lube. And frankly, it can wait another 500 miles until you get home. On Aug 16, 2:58 pm, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <el...@nastydesigns.com> wrote: > In article <1187215024.153217.236...@x40g2000prg.googlegroups.com>, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > There is absolutely no NEED to get your oil changed at places like Jiffy > Lube. And frankly, it can wait another 500 miles until you get home. Geez yeah; my rule is never do anything to the car when you can't afford to have it fail the next day. If not while still on the operating table. All these guys who "need to get a tune-up before we go on vacation tomorrow", living on the edge. On Aug 15, 5:57 pm, techman41...@yahoo.com wrote: > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > themselves. > Thanks The biggest variable is the local managers of the shops, as well as the dealers, as well as other chains, as well as independent mechanics. The secon biggest variable is the talent of whoever's doing the work. You don't think the dealer is putting his best men on the problem of oil changing, I hope. I've had lube chains screw up the plug and/or the filter so bad that the dealer couldn't deal with it, and I've had other chains manage to fix the screwed up plug and/or filter that the dealer couldn't fix. That said, I've gone back to my original idea, which is that it's bad practice to let other people do this kind of stuff. I got one of those valves that go into the plug to make it easier. > The secon biggest variable is the talent of whoever's doing > the work. You don't think the dealer is putting his best men on the > problem of oil changing, I hope. They do in my case. Most dealers have a newbie doing it, but my dealership simply has the regular mechanics do it. I'm happy, because (a) my regular mechanic does it, and (b) he's putting his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out very well. >> The secon biggest variable is the talent of whoever's doing >> the work. You don't think the dealer is putting his best men on the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out >very well. My regular mechanic has his 13-year-old kid doing it this summer. The kid is very good, too. I'd trust him over most of the dealer techs. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." > My regular mechanic has his 13-year-old kid doing it this summer. The kid > is very good, too. I'd trust him over most of the dealer techs. I'm convinced people are at their sharpest around that age, just before the hormones kick in and fog your mind. > >I'm happy, because (a) my regular mechanic does it, and (b) he's putting > >his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out > >very well. > > My regular mechanic has his 13-year-old kid doing it this summer. The kid > is very good, too. I'd trust him over most of the dealer techs. And there's no question his dad is keeping an eagle eye on things behind his back. >> >I'm happy, because (a) my regular mechanic does it, and (b) he's putting >> >his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >And there's no question his dad is keeping an eagle eye on things behind >his back. Absolutely, but the kid can do it as fast as I can at this point. Considering maybe half of the stuff they get in the shop are cars with canister filters, that's saying something. --scott Signature"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." On Aug 16, 5:03 pm, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <el...@nastydesigns.com> wrote: > In article <1187291218.438377.175...@50g2000hsm.googlegroups.com>, > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out > very well. This is why I prefer to have a small shop do it, because a good tech can sometimes spot stuff that he's not even looking for, e.g. "there's some grease on the inside of your LF wheel, I checked it out and your CV boot has a little tear in it, want me to go ahead and replace it before it becomes a problem?" Last time I had the corner guy look at my truck, he identified a vacuum issue with my HVAC controls (which I knew about) and fixed it for about $40 which was fine by me because it would have taken me longer than a half hour to trace it out. nate > > I'm happy, because (a) my regular mechanic does it, and (b) he's putting > > his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > CV boot has a little tear in it, want me to go ahead and replace it > before it becomes a problem?" The exact thing happened to me several years ago, thanks to the experienced eye of a long time regular tech. i do it myself and save money. for the price to pay somebody to change your oil i go to walmart buy a fram oil filter and a 5 quart bottle of castrol syntec full synthetic oil and change it myself and i know it's done right. and my oil stays cleaner longer than those shops that plug up the drain plug before everything is even drained out. read your owners manual and get a haynes repair manual and go at it. -jeff > > > I'm happy, because (a) my regular mechanic does it, and (b) he's putting > > > his practiced eye underneath the car as he does so. It all works out [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > The exact thing happened to me several years ago, thanks to the > experienced eye of a long time regular tech. > i do it myself and save money. for the price to pay somebody to change your > oil i go to walmart buy a fram oil filter and a 5 quart bottle of castrol > syntec full synthetic oil and change it myself and i know it's done right. I use a 25 year veteran mechanic who has been a Honda guy for that whole time. I sit there and watch while he does it, and we shoot the sh.t. He's a friend of mine now. He's the only guy I let touch my Hondas. I know it's done right, because I watched. And I get many benefits from doing it that way, benefits that are more than paid for by that extra few bucks I pay for labor. >>i do it myself and save money. for the price to pay somebody to change your >>oil i go to walmart buy a fram oil filter and a 5 quart bottle of castrol [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > doing it that way, benefits that are more than paid for by that extra > few bucks I pay for labor. Somehow I missed the post that you replied to, but I feel compelled to reply... if you're using Fram filters, you're not doing it right. Fram is a triumph of marketing over quality... nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel > > In article <s0Fxi.5339$924.4...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>, > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > - Show quoted text - If I remember correctly ? Fram has gone an ownership change recently according to other NG`s I read and the quality of their oil filters has improved dramaticaly according to all reports ? Someone cut a Fram filter in half to inspect the internals and found it has all the same quality ingredients as the more expensive "name " brands. I dont know how true this is but seems where theres smoke theres fire > > > In article <s0Fxi.5339$924.4...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>, > > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > I dont know how true this is but seems where theres smoke theres fire The "How it's made" series that runs on the various Discovery Networks channels has episodes showing production of the Fram air and oil filters. The www.howitismade.net site seems to have better listings than the Discovery site. The oil filter episode looks like it's coming up in the rotation next weekend. >>>>In article <s0Fxi.5339$924.4...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>, >>> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > the Discovery site. The oil filter episode looks like it's coming up in > the rotation next weekend. I'll have to try to catch that! nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel >>>In article <s0Fxi.5339$924.4...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>, >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > I dont know how true this is but seems where theres smoke theres fire It's not recently, it was years ago they got bought out by someone, I forget who. But my comments stem from personal experience, their anti-drainback valves simply don't work, at least on a slant six MoPar application. I've also heard of them blowing apart at the seams on engines who develop higher-than-normal (>100 PSI) oil pressure on a cold start, like VWs, but that part is anecdotal. nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel they are good quality. the oil filter i dont like is purolator. i had one of their oil filters leave the gasket on my engine when i changed the filter and i started the car and saw my brand new oil all over the pavement. it wasn't synthetic oil at the time that i was using but it made me have to walk to a gas station and pay double what walmart or autozone would charge per quart for more oil just so i could drive my car. -jeff > >>>In article <s0Fxi.5339$924.4...@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net>, > >> [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > > nate If they're such good quality, they should have an ADBV that works. They don't. You can't convince me that Fram is good quality unless they've changed significantly in the last ten years or so, because my own experiences tell me that they are inferior to every other name brand filter on the market. nate > they are good quality. the oil filter i dont like is purolator. i had one of > their oil filters leave the gasket on my engine when i changed the filter [quoted text clipped - 64 lines] >> >>nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel In fact, Purolator is one of the better brands and if someone forgets to check for gaskets that stick to the filter mount when changing... Shame on 'em for not checking since this is a common occurance regardless of filter mfg.. JT (Who feels extra grumpy today!) > If they're such good quality, they should have an ADBV that works. They > don't. You can't convince me that Fram is good quality unless they've [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] >>> >>> nate I find it interesting... Fram filters now have a Honeywell symbol on them. Funny because so do my Honda filters. Granted they could be manufactured differently, but in my experience, the chances of that is slim to none. unless they are made in a different factory. The cost of carrying different materials for different quality requirements on an oil filter I'm thinking would be cost negative. t >If they're such good quality, they should have an ADBV that works. They >don't. You can't convince me that Fram is good quality unless they've [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >>> >>>nate > I find it interesting... Fram filters now have a Honeywell symbol on them. > > Funny because so do my Honda filters. Maybe they will/have improved the product. I don't see how they got away with the drainback valve problem for so many years. I'm almost for certain that 100's if not eventually 1000's of people surely complained about it. This problem applied to many ford and mopar sixes.. It's like they totally ignored the problem and just thumbed their noses at the consumers. I'm sure they would have gone broke by switching to a better valve design or material.. Not... :( None of the other low priced filters had the problem. I can use most any brand, except Fram.. Everyone else seems to have a decent valve. Or at least, good nuf fer gov work. So even if they fix the problem, I'd still be wary due to their past lack of concern. It's also quite possible nothing has really changed, except for the collection of three piece suiters in the new home office.. They might be buying from the same sources, and just slapping a HW paint job on them. I couldn't say until I actually tested a "new" fram in one of my trucks. It won't take long to tell if it's changed or not.. I have two old ford trucks, both with sixes.. One a 240, and the other a 300.. Normally I use nothing but motorcraft FL1A'a.. They are cheap, and a very good filter for that application. Best bang for the buck any day of the week. I don't know what the mopar slant six guys prefer... I imagine nearly anything but a fram is ok if it's like the ford experience. If I had to go get a filter for my 300, and got to choose between a fram, and a K-mart brand special, I'd go K-mart after about 20 ms of thought time.. Thats how bad the problem is for the six bangers.. All I gotta worry about is that the K-mart filter is not a repainted fram, but most any other cheap design on the planet. :/ MK > they are good quality. the oil filter i dont like is purolator. i had one of > their oil filters leave the gasket on my engine when i changed the filter > and i started the car and saw my brand new oil all over the pavement. Don't blame the filter for operator error! ANY filter can leave a gasket behind, that's why you should check and clean the gasket surface on the engine's oil filter mounting flange every time. Purolator and Wix are probably the best filters on the market, overall. > Don't blame the filter for operator error! ANY filter can leave a gasket > behind, that's why you should check and clean the gasket surface on the > engine's oil filter mounting flange every time. Purolator and Wix are > probably the best filters on the market, overall. That is true.. Can happen with the best of them.. I totally agree with Nate about the fram filters on some six cyl engines. They are a *proven* disaster waiting to happen. I even tried one myself to see.. I had to yank it within one day. Trust me, I don't yank new filters, unless I have a good reason.. :/ Now, I can see some engines not having a problem with fram filters. Most of the problems with frams on six bangers are from the physical position of the filter, and the fast drain it will do if the valve is a bad design. But many engines don't mount the filters in that position, and thus probably would not have the problem. But...Being I know fram skimps on their anti-drainback valves, I don't really trust them as far as the other parts of the filter. So I don't use them at all, just to be on the safe side. Purolator in general makes very high quality filters. At least I know they have good anti drain valves. The motorcraft FL1A that I use on the ford trucks and have zero problems with may well use a purolator design, and I've heard some are actually made by purolator. Supposably WIX filters are pretty good, although I've never tried one. Those are sold by NAPA, etc.. Myself, I'm not overally picky about filters.. Or at least I don't buy the high $$$$ versions that offer fine filtration, etc.. I'm of the opinion that too good a filter is not good either.. They clog faster in general, and if the bypass has to kick in.... :( No bueno.. As far as the seals sticking, it can happen to just about any of them if the seal gets stuck good enough.. Or at least for the ones that use a "flat" seal surface. The ones with a sunk "O-ring" type of seal tend to stick less. But... You should still double check every time, or verify that the old one is still on the old filter when you yank it. Myself, I use a dab of oil off the old seal to lube the new seal. So if I reach over to grab a touch of oil, and the seal ain't there, I know it's still on the engine. I've had it happen maybe 2-3 times in a few hundred oil changes. I once dumped a couple of quarts on a service bay floor when this happened at a place I worked at years ago. Needless to say, I always made sure the seal didn't stick after that.. Over the years, I've changed the oil in hundreds of vehicles starting with helping my grandfather do it at his Texaco station when I was a kid, and then through 2-3 stations I worked at when younger. At one local Texaco, I did several a day, every day.. Also all my cars through the years.. I've never had anyone else change the oil on any of my cars since I started driving. So I do know a little bit about changing oil and filters regardless of "local" opinion to the contrary.. One tip... Never , ever change the oil and filter on a vehicle and not look for leaks under the car when through, and cranked up.. I've heard stories of JL's not doing that and having the car come right back with a dry engine.. I'd strangle anyone that did that to one of my cars. Maybe that why I always do it myself. I'm just trying to save the life of some poor JL dude or dudette.. lol.. MK > I totally agree with Nate about the fram filters on some six cyl > engines. They are a *proven* disaster waiting to happen. I > even tried one myself to see.. I had to yank it within one day. > Trust me, I don't yank new filters, unless I have a good > reason.. :/ I do trust you. My local parts store once had a display with cut-away Fram and Wix filters side by side. The Wix must have had five times the surface area of filter paper, if not ten. But I'm curious. . . You decided to yank the filter based on some observable symptom? I was it doing? > <n...@wt.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > But I'm curious. . . You decided to yank the filter based on some observable > symptom? I was it doing? I can't speak for the previous poster, but in my case I noticed on two different 60's vintage A-bodies with the 225 slant six that the oil light would stay on for what I thought was an excessive period of time after startup - five seconds or so, accompanied by lifter rattling noises. Changing the filter to a Wix filter reduced that to about a second or so on both cars. nate >> <n...@wt.net> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > nate I had a 'bad' lifter rattle on start up in my straight 6 after an oil change at the end of a hard 3000 mile run and thought I had engine damage until I remembered I bought the 'on sale' filter that was a Fram. Changed it and all the noise went away.. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > But I'm curious. . . You decided to yank the filter based on some observable > symptom? I was it doing? No oil pressure on startup for excessive amounts of time. I changed the oil and a fram filter one day. On the first start after the change, I thought it was ok.. But, the next day I started it and had no oil pressure. And.. It wouldn't build up either.. I thought my oil pump was out. I shut it off, and restarted, and it finally came up to pressure after a few more seconds. Yanked the filter, and replaced with a FL1A and never had the problem again. Orange fram filters and many six bangers don't play well together. :( MK > i do it myself and save money. for the price to pay somebody to change your > oil i go to walmart buy a fram oil filter and a 5 quart bottle of castrol > syntec full synthetic oil and change it myself and i know it's done right. > and my oil stays cleaner longer than those shops that plug up the drain plug > before everything is even drained out. read your owners manual and get a > haynes repair manual and go at it. I've been buying the Castrol 5 quart for a long time but I was in K- Mart yesterday and I noticed all the Castrol jugs in there were 4 quart, does Castrol make both a 4 quart and a 5 quart jug or did they "downsize" the jug to make more money? On Aug 15, 5:57 pm, techman41...@yahoo.com wrote: > I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at > Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any > quality or performance difference between the bulk oil they use or the > optional bottled oil (penzoil) that they offer for $10-$15 more? The real question is whether they say the bulk oil is the same oil as in the bottles. If they say it's the same oil then I would believe them. I would not expect that Jiffy Lube or other large chain stores would be playing bait and switch games with motor oil. > I have heard many horror stories regarding Jiffy Lube, although I > guess I am lucky with 220K on my Honda Accord. Expect that they will do what you asked them to do, which is change the oil and filter. Just realize that they won't provide that set of expert eyes to spot potential troubles in other areas. > Taking my car to the > dealer just for an oil change on the road seems ridiculous. And likely to involve a half-day wait or longer if you can get into the schedule. > Just > wondeingr what others look for in an oil-change place to insure > quality work (those who fear Jiffy Lube) when they can't do it > themselves. > Thanks > I would not expect that Jiffy Lube or other large chain stores > would be playing bait and switch games with motor oil. You mean, like how Sears would sit cars out back, never touch them, then charge customers at the end of the day? Yeah, those big chain stores. They'd never f.ck with you. No sir. On Aug 27, 11:54 am, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <el...@nastydesigns.com> wrote: > In article <1188226536.937689.269...@50g2000hsm.googlegroups.com>, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Yeah, those big chain stores. They'd never f.ck with you. No sir. At least around here, as of a couple years ago (last time I checked) if you went to your local Sears for an oil change, there was actually a Jiffy Lube franchise within the Sears Auto Center. don't know if that's changed or not. Only times I have knowingly taken my car to a Sears Auto Center was one time where I needed an alignment Right Away (they did an OK job) and another time when I was on the road and needed an alternator Right Away (also did an OK job, but was silly expensive and their supplier sent them the wrong alternator first time around, making me lose about a day of travel) nate On Aug 27, 11:54 am, "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <el...@nastydesigns.com> wrote: > In article <1188226536.937689.269...@50g2000hsm.googlegroups.com>, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Yeah, those big chain stores. They'd never f.ck with you. No sir. Can't tell you a thing about Sears, sorry. Bit it does sound like an old story that's been repeated a lot. But I have seen a small indpendent shop really screw up something as simple as reinstalling a drain plug, so there are f...ups working everywhere. Fortunately they are in the minority. > > Taking my car to the > > dealer just for an oil change on the road seems ridiculous. > > And likely to involve a half-day wait or longer if you can get into > the schedule. I take mine to the dealer and never wait any longer than having Iffy Lube do it. And I get to watch while my regular mechanic does the work as we chat. Taking the car to the dealer while on the road isn't any more ridiculous than taking it to the dealer at home, and that's not necessarily ridiculous at all.
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