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Car Forum / Honda Cars / September 20072000 Accord EX 4cyl SRS light on steady, but no DTC
First time here I think... I guess the subject line pretty much tells it all. I checked FAQ's and Googled it, nada. Any ideas? It's the lack of a DTC that puzzles me the most. ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out. Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper retaining bolts? Thanks in advance. Jim > First time here I think... > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Jim This happened to me several years ago with my 2000 SE. Turned out to be a problem with a seat belt latch. I think it was the subject of a recall notice. The dealer fixed it for free (seat belts are warranted for the life of the car). I'd take it to the dealer and get the code read. Can't help you with the bolts, sorry. Paul >> First time here I think... >> [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > I'd take it to the dealer and get the code read. That's the wrinkle...the car is not throwing a code. An OBD scan comes back clean. > > I'd take it to the dealer and get the code read. > An OBD scan comes back clean. This is good advice as I don't think a generic OBD scan will communicate with Honda SRS. If you want to flash the SRS DTCs do this: 1. Turn ignition switch off. 2. Ground pin 9 (brown wire) at the 16p DLC connector. 3. Turn the ignition switch to run (II) 4. Watch the SRS indicator (red) after a few seconds it should start flashing a pattern. 5. To finish turn ignition switch off; remove the ground wire. Either post the flash pattern or email results to me. -- Tp, -------- __o ----- -\<. -------- __o --- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<. -------------------- ( )/ ( ) ----------------------------------------- No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron... Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: > First time here I think... > > I guess the subject line pretty much tells it all. I checked FAQ's and > Googled it, nada. > > Any ideas? It's the lack of a DTC that puzzles me the most. When no DTC is stored but the light comes on, this can be due to a bad SRS control module. Your model has several oustanding TSBs on the SRS system, but there's nothing I can find covering a no-DTC condition. I would call the dealer, give him your VIN and ask if they have any TSBs in their system (more complete than what's available to me) which would cover the symptoms you see. > ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out. ONLY the odometer backlight? Do the other dash lights work OK? Can you dim and brighten them? > Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper > retaining bolts? You mean the ones holding the caliper to the mount bracket? Can you not get them to loosen?  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 > $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > complete than what's available to me) which would cover the symptoms you > see. Will do, thanks. >> ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out. > > ONLY the odometer backlight? Do the other dash lights work OK? Can you dim > and brighten them? Yup, JUST the odo. All others work fine in all respects. >> Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper >> retaining bolts? > > You mean the ones holding the caliper to the mount bracket? Can you not get > them to loosen? Yes, those bolts. Mine are reeeeeaaaal tight and the rubber boot is twisting with it. Thanks again Tegger. Jim >> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Yes, those bolts. Mine are reeeeeaaaal tight and the rubber boot is > twisting with it. you only unbolt the small one at the bottom, then the caliper swings up hinged by the upper slide. and it loosens no problem. > Thanks again Tegger. > > Jim >>> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >>> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > you only unbolt the small one at the bottom, then the caliper swings up > hinged by the upper slide. and it loosens no problem. I'm not doing a brake job, I'm replacing the hubs (bearings). Thanks anyway. >>>> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >>>> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > I'm not doing a brake job, I'm replacing the hubs (bearings). Thanks > anyway. then there's no rubber boot... and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on a honda. >>>>> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >>>>> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > then there's no rubber boot... Yes, there are. > and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on a > honda. Noise, mostly. I replaced the left front last year, it was shot. >> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on >> a honda. > > Noise, mostly. I replaced the left front last year, it was shot. In Northeastern climates, the weather seal fails on the backs of the bearings. Moisture gets in and the races rust, causing noise. Typical lifespan for wheel bearings up here is about seven or eight years or so, depending on the amount of driving. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Sounds like he is working on the wrong bolts.... the caliper mounting bolts on my civic are 2 17mm bolts on the back side of the caliper bracket. No rubber boots. And they were a bitch the first time I loosened them, >>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles on >>> a honda. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Typical lifespan for wheel bearings up here is about seven or eight years >or so, depending on the amount of driving. >>>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles >>>> on a honda. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >>Typical lifespan for wheel bearings up here is about seven or eight >>years or so, depending on the amount of driving. > Sounds like he is working on the wrong bolts.... the caliper mounting > bolts on my civic are 2 17mm bolts on the back side of the caliper > bracket. No rubber boots. And they were a bitch the first time I > loosened them, You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to the mount bracket. Different. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ ?? he said he's changing the hub bearing... doens't that mean you need to remove the caliper to steering knuckle bracket? >>>>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles >>>>> on a honda. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to the >mount bracket. Different. >>You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle >>bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to >>the mount bracket. Different. > > ?? he said he's changing the hub bearing... doens't that mean you need > to remove the caliper to steering knuckle bracket? You'd need to remove the caliper first, then the mount bracket, then the rotor. If he's mentioning "rubber boots" he's talking about the caliper-to- mount-bolts. Those are the only ones with boots. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle >>> bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > rotor. If he's mentioning "rubber boots" he's talking about the caliper-to- > mount-bolts. Those are the only ones with boots. but there's no point - just remove the mount bracket and the whole thing comes off. no boots. that was my point... :) >>>> You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle >>>> bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >but there's no point - just remove the mount bracket and the whole thing >comes off. no boots. >>>> You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to steering-knuckle >>>> bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > but there's no point - just remove the mount bracket and the whole thing > comes off. no boots. Excellent point! Thanks Jim. Jim >>>>> You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to >>>>> steering-knuckle bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Excellent point! Thanks Jim. But at some point in the future you will end up having to remove the caliper from the mount bracket, no? By that time, your seized bolts may be even more seized. And besides, your parking brake cable will make handling the caliper/mouint bracket assembly a bit awkward unless you unhook the cable from the caliper first. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>>>>> You're referring to the 17mm caliper-mount-bracket to >>>>>> steering-knuckle bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > caliper from the mount bracket, no? By that time, your seized bolts may be > even more seized. True enough. > And besides, your parking brake cable will make handling the caliper/mouint > bracket assembly a bit awkward unless you unhook the cable from the caliper > first. Yes it did. >>>>>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ miles >>>>>> on a honda. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> bolts. The OP is talking about the 12mm bolts that fix the caliper to the >> mount bracket. Different. I'm asking about the rear calipers on a 2000 Accord. >>>>>>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ >>>>>>> miles on a honda. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > I'm asking about the rear calipers on a 2000 Accord. Oh? Do the rear bolts look like this...? http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes5.html If they do, you simply need a 6-point 12mm wrench. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/rr_brake_6pointer.jpg If the caliper mount bolts are not removed at least once per year, they rust solidly in place and are a bitch to remove. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>>>>>>> and why are you doing the bearings? they usually last 300k+ >>>>>>>> miles on a honda. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Oh? Do the rear bolts look like this...? > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes5.html Yes, I think so. But cannot be certain yet as I've never had them out. > If they do, you simply need a 6-point 12mm wrench. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/rr_brake_6pointer.jpg > If the caliper mount bolts are not removed at least once per year, they > rust solidly in place and are a bitch to remove. So the torquing I see going on with the boot is not a problem? Once again, thanks Tegger. Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46e01e9c$0$6419 $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: > So the torquing I see going on with the boot is not a problem? IF the bolt assemblies are like the pictures I referenced, then either 1) it's just the pins rotating slightly, which will stop once the pin head flat sits right up against its receiving lip on the caliper, or 2) the pins are not seated properly, in which case the last tech messed up. You should see no movement of the boots outside of the slight pin rotation. > Once again, thanks Tegger. You're welcome, but I really think you should get down and have a really good look at the assembly. Otherwise both of us may be wasting time. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46e01e9c$0$6419 > $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > You're welcome, but I really think you should get down and have a really > good look at the assembly. Otherwise both of us may be wasting time. Roger that. I took Jim Beam's tip and just removed the bracket mounting bolts. It took a little wiggling and fiddling to get the caliper/pads back over the rotor on reassembly but it worked fine that way. Also avoided removing the caliper bolts. Thanks again everybody. Jim >> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: >>> ICIM, a few months ago the ODO back lighting went out. >> >> ONLY the odometer backlight? Do the other dash lights work OK? Can >> you dim and brighten them? > > Yup, JUST the odo. All others work fine in all respects. It's probably just the bulb. Remove the cluster and replace it. >>> Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper >>> retaining bolts? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Yes, those bolts. Mine are reeeeeaaaal tight and the rubber boot is > twisting with it. Does this one have a hollow steel sleeve that is completely surrounded by a rubber boot? A long bolt goes through that hollow sleeve into the caliper mount bracket? SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> Nasty <Nastymychain@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in news:46dcc065$0$28798 >>> $4c368faf@roadrunner.com: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > It's probably just the bulb. Remove the cluster and replace it. Kinda what I figured. Just too lazy to pull the dash apart for one bulb I don't really need anyway. >>>> Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper >>>> retaining bolts? [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > rubber boot? A long bolt goes through that hollow sleeve into the caliper > mount bracket? That's what my Chilton's shows. This is my first excursion in this area. >>>>> Oh, while I'm here, is there a trick to removing the rear caliper >>>>> retaining bolts? [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > That's what my Chilton's shows. This is my first excursion in this > area. If the bolts are seized to the sleeve, then everything is rusted together. Try TIGHTENING the bolt to help break the corrosion seal between the bolt and sleeve. Tightening should clamp the sleeve in place so it can't turn. Tighten 1/8 turn, loosen the same amount, then go back and forth like that a bit. Once the seal has been well broken up, you should be able to remove the bolt all the way. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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