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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 20071998 Civic - Spark Plug Gap Setting
Hello, I am in the process of replacing my '98 Civic's spark plugs and have purchased some new Autolite brand ("Platinum" model) spark plugs that appear to be gapped at .040". However, the specifications for the Civic are to have the gap be .044". Should I bother trying to widen the gap the extra .004"? What would happen if I did not have the correct gap? Thanks, Kevin > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Thanks, > Kevin return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have been around the block a few times and that have tried many different plugs will all tell you, ngk or denso in honda. nothing else works as well or as reliably. and both those factors save you money. > return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. > don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have been > around the block a few times and that have tried many different plugs > will all tell you, ngk or denso in honda. nothing else works as well or > as reliably. and both those factors save you money. ------------------------------- Like Jim said. Take them back. 'Curly' >> return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. >> don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Like Jim said. Take them back. I think you people put WAY too much emphasis on specific brands of plugs being "better" for certain cars. My '87 Accord has been running the same set of Bosch Platinums for over two years with nary a hiccup. In fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. Thanks, everyone, for your replies. Brand name aside, is there any danger to me installing spark plugs that have a .004" less gap than Honda's recommendations? Are there any tools (that I already have) that I can use to widen the gap besides a spark plug gapping tool? Will needle-nose pliers work? Thanks, Kevin > >> return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. > >> don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head > gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. > Thanks, everyone, for your replies. > > Brand name aside, is there any danger to me installing spark plugs > that have a .004" less gap than Honda's recommendations? Not really. See my other post. But it's still not correct. You have an emissions system that's pretty sensitive. Use of the wrong -- or wrongly gapped -- plugs increases the probability of a Check Engine light illumination. > Are there any tools (that I already have) that I can use to widen the > gap besides a spark plug gapping tool? Will needle-nose pliers work? That would not be smart. You should use a spark plug gapping tool. And, unfortunately, it is way too easy to scratch the platinum coating while gapping,in which case the coating will erode off in no time. Also, burrs caused by pliers will cause hot spots on the plugs, which can lead to pre-ignition and engine damage. If I were you, I'd bite the bullet and buy the correct plugs as given on your hood sticker.  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Thanks, everyone, for your replies. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Thanks, > Kevin if your objective in using these plugs is to have something longer lasting or something that "preforms" better, consider ngk iridiums. >>>> return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. >>>> don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head >> gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. >> Thanks, everyone, for your replies. >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > if your objective in using these plugs is to have something longer > lasting or something that "preforms" better, consider ngk iridiums. i'm sorry, performs, not preforms. >>>>> return these plugs and get ngk or denso - don't bother gapping them. >>>>> don't bother with bosch either. seriously. those of us that have [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >>> fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head >>> gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. Thanks again, everyone, for your replies. It looks like I should be focusing my attention on NGK or Bosch spark plugs, which are both the exact gap that I need. Now that we have taken care of the spark plugs, I have also already purchased the Bosch spark plug wire set. Is this a "bad" wire set? I am reading some negative comments about Bosch in this post. If I did purchase the NGK plugs, would they "mesh" good with the Bosch wires? Or, should I stick with Bosch plugs since I already have the Bosch wires? Thanks for your continued assistance. Kevin > >> Thanks, everyone, for your replies. > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > >>> fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head > >>> gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. > Thanks again, everyone, for your replies. It looks like I should be > focusing my attention on NGK or Bosch spark plugs, which are both the > exact gap that I need. again, i would avoid bosch. i've had many bad experiences with those things being fine one day, visually perfect on inspection, but the car will simply refuse to start. ngk will keep on working until the electrodes are melted stubs of nothingness. absolutely utterly reliable. > Now that we have taken care of the spark plugs, I have also already > purchased the Bosch spark plug wire set. Is this a "bad" wire set? I > am reading some negative comments about Bosch in this post. If I did > purchase the NGK plugs, would they "mesh" good with the Bosch wires? > Or, should I stick with Bosch plugs since I already have the Bosch > wires? again, i'd take them back and spring the few extra bucks for oem or ngk. if you want a little extra fizz, the coiled core plug leads are excellent - magnecor or, of course, ngk. > Thanks for your continued assistance. > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >>>>> fact, I only just recently had to pull them out to track a blown head >>>>> gasket (RIP) and they're still in good condition. > Thanks again, everyone, for your replies. It looks like I should be > focusing my attention on NGK or Bosch spark plugs, which are both the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Or, should I stick with Bosch plugs since I already have the Bosch > wires? If you like to make sure your catalytic converter lasts as long as possible, only OEM wires are correct. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ How am I able to determine what brand of OEM wires they are? I don't have any spark plug-related information on the underside of my hood Thanks, Kevin > > Thanks again, everyone, for your replies. It looks like I should be > > focusing my attention on NGK or Bosch spark plugs, which are both the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > How am I able to determine what brand of OEM wires they are? I don't > have any spark plug-related information on the underside of my hood OEM wires are available only at your local Honda dealer. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Tegger, Thanks for your replies (and thanks, also, to everyone else whose replied)... My '98 Civic has 153,000 miles on it and I think it has only had one tune-up in its lifetime (probably around 60,000 miles, but I do not know for sure). I know that the tune-up was not done at a Honda dealership, but was done at one of those automotive repair places (Monro Muffler, I believe). The automotive place wouldn't use OEM parts, would they? I just recently replaced the oxygen sensor (before CC) because of check engine light trouble codes indicating a defective O2 sensor, plus my car was having hesistation problems and rough idling. I think now is a good time to do a tune-up. In addition to replacing the plugs and wires, I'm also going to replace the cap and rotor. Thanks, Kevin > > How am I able to determine what brand of OEM wires they are? I don't > > have any spark plug-related information on the underside of my hood [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ On 10/7/07 6:34 PM, in article 1191800073.401550.89160@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com, "Kevin G." <KevinGravelle@gmail.com> wrote: > Tegger, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >> >> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ If it hasn't had any maintenance for 93,000 miles, you should be worrying about the overdue timing belt change & not the plugs. I recently had the car in the auto repair shop after the check engine light came on. I wanted to get a "complete" engine diagnosis, and they told me that my car need a "major" tune-up and a new O2 sensor. They didn't mention anything about timing belt problems. Is this something that should've/would've been discovered during this engine diagnosis? Thanks, Kevin > On 10/7/07 6:34 PM, in article > 1191800073.401550.89...@22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com, "Kevin G." [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > If it hasn't had any maintenance for 93,000 miles, you should be worrying > about the overdue timing belt change & not the plugs. <Kevin's top posting corrected> >> >> [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > light came on. I wanted to get a "complete" engine diagnosis, and > they told me that my car need a "major" tune-up and a new O2 sensor. They haven't told you very much at all. Except that you need to pay them lots of money. Define "major tuneup". What did it say on the quote sheet? > They didn't mention anything about timing belt problems. Is this > something that should've/would've been discovered during this engine > diagnosis? No. BUT...When was the timing belt changed last? SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ There was not a quote sheet. They called me on the phone and told me what they suggested needed to be changed/repaired. This included the O2 sensor, a tune-up (spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor replacement), and a fuel filter replacement. Unfortunately, based on some online research, it appears that the timing belt replacement is not something I can do, as I am an "amateur" car mechanic at best! :) I'll have to check some old bills/quote sheets from past visits to the auto shop to see if/when the timing belt has ever been replaced. Thanks, everyone, for your continued replies. Kevin > <Kevin's top posting corrected> > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Tegger (and others), I have started performing the tune-up on my '98 Civic. I first replaced the spark plugs without too much trouble. I then took off the distributor cap to get to the rotor to replace that. I have run into a problem. I can't get the rotor out! I have seen several posts (some by you, Tegger), which indicates that there could be a screw holding the rotor in place. I cannot determine this. Is this screw viewable on the outside of the "leak cover?" I have used a mirror to see the underneath of the "leak cover" and I don't see this screw anywhere. So, I have two questions: 1. Is the rotor held in by a screw? If so, how do I get to it? 2. If the rotor is not held in by a screw, then how do I get the rotor out? I've already busted part of the rotor of while trying to get it out. I've tried pulling it with my hands, using pliers, etc., so as not to damage the distributor. Initially when I first decided that I could "tackle" this job, I found a website located at "http://www.partsource.ca/doityourself/ JOM_June2005.asp" and it indicated that removing the rotor was "easy." This has definitely not been the case! Your help is appreciated. Thanks, Kevin > There was not a quote sheet. They called me on the phone and told me > what they suggested needed to be changed/repaired. This included the [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Tegger (and others), > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > 1. Is the rotor held in by a screw? If so, how do I get to it? yes it is. rotate motor until screw is visible. it's opposite the spark "finger". > 2. If the rotor is not held in by a screw, then how do I get the > rotor out? I've already busted part of the rotor of while trying to > get it out. I've tried pulling it with my hands, using pliers, etc., > so as not to damage the distributor. unless it's some kind of whacked aftermarket junk, it's there. > Initially when I first decided that I could "tackle" this job, I found > a website located at "http://www.partsource.ca/doityourself/ [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >>> Tegger >>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Jim, Thanks for your reply. How does one rotate the motor? I have read a few posts online on how to do it, but I am still not quite grasping the concept. Would you know how and be able to tell me how to do it specifically for a Civic? What is the spark "finger?" Is this something that's in the distributor? Thanks, Kevin > > Tegger (and others), > [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > >>> Tegger > >>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Jim, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > to do it, but I am still not quite grasping the concept. Would you > know how and be able to tell me how to do it specifically for a Civic? if it's a stick, easiest way is put it in top gear, jack /one/ wheel off the ground, then rotate the wheel. the motor will turn slowly, and you can stop when the rotor arm is in the desired position. if it's auto, use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt. > What is the spark "finger?" Is this something that's in the > distributor? on the rotor itself, there is a metal finger that points at each of the plug leads in turn as it rotates. you approach the head of the screw at 180 to the direction of the finger, so to have the screw pointed up at you where you can access, turn the motor to point the finger down. preferably to about 8o/c and #1 piston firing position. if you want to do other work on this car over time, i strongly recommend you invest in the factory repair manual from helminc.com. by far the best tool you can ever buy for your honda. > Thanks, > Kevin [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >>>>> Tegger >>>>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > Jim, > > Thanks for your reply. > > How does one rotate the motor? ----------------------- Use the (ignition) key and flip the starter a tiny bit. When the rotor points horizontal, at the radiator, the screw will be pointing at the firewall, if yours it like my '97 CR-V. Honda provided a hole in the plastic guard for you to see when the screw lines up. Here's a quote from a similar post: When removing the rotor, use a fairly LARGE Phillips tip, or grind a bit off the tip of the one you have. The tip has to feel bottomed in the screw and fit snuggly. North American tools rarely fit Japanese screws correctly and you will need all the torque you can get. 'Curly' I heard platinum plugs can eventually burn holes in the piston head... someone wrote that on a message I had posted here. They said they are ok to clean the carbon out of the injectors or something like that, but not to used them for too long cuz they can lead to premature piston/cylinder wear and small holes. By too long I mean for more then a year or 2. > I heard platinum plugs can eventually burn holes in the piston head... > someone wrote that on a message I had posted here. They said they are > ok to clean the carbon out of the injectors or something like that, > but not to used them for too long cuz they can lead to premature > piston/cylinder wear and small holes. By too long I mean for more then > a year or 2. crock of utter bullshit. > Tegger (and others), > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > get it out. I've tried pulling it with my hands, using pliers, etc., > so as not to damage the distributor. See here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/distrotor.html SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Thanks, everyone, for your replies. I used the "flip the starter a tiny bit" methodology in order to get the screw exposed that was holding in the rotor. Once I got this replaced, everything else was smooth sailing! The car is running good after the tune-up. Thanks everyone! Kevin > > Tegger (and others), > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > - Show quoted text - > Thanks, everyone, for your replies. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Are there any tools (that I already have) that I can use to widen the > gap besides a spark plug gapping tool? Will needle-nose pliers work? You can use pliers or a small screwdriver, but a proper gapping tool should only cost you about $2-$5. Any good set of plug gauges will include a gapping tool. >> Thanks, everyone, for your replies. >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > You can use pliers or a small screwdriver, NO! No pliers! Pliers can make burrs that can cause pre-ignition! SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> Thanks, everyone, for your replies. >>> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Pliers can make burrs that can cause pre-ignition! I didn't say it was a GOOD IDEA... :) "Kevin G." <KevinGravelle@gmail.com> wrote in news:1191726102.200920.321500 @r29g2000hsg.googlegroups.com: > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > the gap the extra .004"? What would happen if I did not have the > correct gap? Buy the correct plugs. The ones whose numbers end in "-11" are already pregapped to .044". NGK is correct. Autolite is not. If the gap is too small by .004", you'll get ever so slightly lower mileage and ever so slightly higher emissions. You won't even notice the difference. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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