Tegger's description and pictures are awesome and very enlightening. I
think he tells you almost every thing you need to know with one
omission.
The final step before tightening the bolts on any replaced bushings is
after the nuts are started and snugged up lightly is to set the car
down on ramps so the full weight of the car is on the suspension. Then
tighten all the bolts to specified torque when the car is in its
normal attitude. This prevents overstretching the rubber in the
bushings and gives them equal flexibility in the upward and downward
travel. If you don't do this then you run the risk of tearing the
rubber on hard bumps.
> Tegger's description and pictures are awesome and very enlightening. I
> think he tells you almost every thing you need to know with one
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> travel. If you don't do this then you run the risk of tearing the
> rubber on hard bumps.
Yes, it is called neutralizing any pre-load. When you set the car on
ramps it is a good idea to bounce the car around by hand to ensure that
a neutral stance is acheived.
JT
adam.tomash@gmail.com wrote in news:8f27c2a9-5b37-4c56-a01d-
e1cbf659a63d@l1g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
> Tegger's description and pictures are awesome and very enlightening. I
> think he tells you almost every thing you need to know with one
> omission.
>
> The final step before tightening the bolts on any replaced bushings is
> after the nuts are started and snugged up lightly
Not when they're snugged up lightly, but when they're LOOSE.
The nuts/bolts MUST be LOOSE. Not much, but just short of seating.
Snugging will prevent the inner sleeve from rotating once the suspension
has settled. It is this inner sleeve rotation that is so critical.
You need to release the inner sleeves before you damage your bushings, if
you haven't damaged them by now.
> is to set the car
> down on ramps so the full weight of the car is on the suspension. Then
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> travel. If you don't do this then you run the risk of tearing the
> rubber on hard bumps.
Any any time I've discussed bushing replacement (including very recently in
this group), I have said exactly that.
When I did my fronts, it was not possible for me to lower the car. What I
did was to load up the control arm with a jack and jack stand, measuring
the distance from hub center to wheel well lip for confirmation. This
placed the suspension at the right attitude for bushing tightening.

Signature
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
adam tomash - 18 Nov 2007 22:37 GMT
Sorry I didn't see that in the thread you wrote on bushing replacement. I
don't see so well so it is quite possible for me to miss it. I am new to
posting in newsgroups and so don't follow it closely for long periods of
time. I find all of your advice invaluable and from the perspective of the
majority of the readers of this newsgroup. Please accept my apologies.
11/18/07 16:4811/18/07 16:48tegger@tegger.c0m
> adam.tomash@gmail.com wrote in news:8f27c2a9-5b37-4c56-a01d-
> e1cbf659a63d@l1g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> the distance from hub center to wheel well lip for confirmation. This
> placed the suspension at the right attitude for bushing tightening.
pickleman
bluemoonmac@roadrunneryourpants.com (please remove yourpants)--