 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Honda Cars / December 2007brake questions
Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty pressing the rear brake pistons back. The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons. They have a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to depress. I had to do this on both sides. I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the phillips head. The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them. But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to remove the rotor. Any advice appreciated. The brakes are working OK. Thanks 1999 Accord EX 4 cyl 4 wheel disc brakes 118000 miles > Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty > pressing the rear brake pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to > depress. I had to do this on both sides. Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp. What you did was the right thing to do. > I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two > phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the > phillips head. They kinda get stuck, yeah. > The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them. > But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to > remove the rotor. Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors to let go... Ask here for more...  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > > Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty > > pressing the rear brake pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them). HTH JerryR The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors. The front pads (Wagner) have been on car since 55000+ miles (now have 118000). They still have some good pad left. On Dec 2, 10:08 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote: > "newman" <st74du...@verizon.net> wrote innews:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06: > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them). HTH JerryR > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the > two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax > rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors. I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars. >> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to >> replace the two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber >> hammer to coax rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors. > > I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to > stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars. ------------------------- Them Japs . . . Waste, waste, waste. They're a disgrace to the auto industry the way they throw spare parts in that aren't even needed. :-) > > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the > > two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax > > rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors. > > I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to > stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars. Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't. You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is much disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out. But I checked the local Honda dealer online for parts. The screws appear to just cost 47 cents each. For that price, I'll just play it safe and reinstall them. Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws? Thanks for all the replies. On Dec 3, 10:00 pm, Al <a...@spamless.com> wrote: > newman wrote: > > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to > stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars. Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't. > You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is > much disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws? See here for my own description, based on very much experience with this very thing: <http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota/browse_frm/thread/19225956d59e45 c2/2096a6c0819cdc56?lnk=st&q=#2096a6c0819cdc56> SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > > You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is > > much disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust the rotor free. Of course, by the time a rotor got so crudded onto the hub, the screws were well frozen in, and the threaded holes were pretty corroded, but at least it's a nice thought. > I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the > Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get > the two stupid little philips screws out of the rotor, there were two > additional threaded holes at 90 degrees to them where you could drive > the philips screws in, and they would bottom against the hub and bust > the rotor free. Hondas and Toyotas have this as well. You'll see those holes in the photos I referenced in my previous message. But if the rotors are frozen to the hubs as in the example I referenced, bolts in those little holes will do bugger all except crack the face of the top hat. That sort of rust which gets bad enough to hook the rotor onto the hub seems to be something almost unique to the North-east of the US and Canada. Posters outside this region do not seem to be able to get a handle on just how bad it can be. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > > I don't think it's true for Hondas, but one of my cars; maybe the > > Mitsubishi (Plymouth Sapporo)? had a neat deal; if you managed to get [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ It's a good thing; holds the car together. >> > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to >> > replace the two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything > is new and nonrusty and not stuck. You'd think so, but that's not why they're there. The real reason for those little screws is to keep the rotors from shifting when you have the caliper off during brake servicing. If the rotors shift, crud falls between the rotor and hub, causing brake vibration. > don't most manufacturers have > similar screws on the rotors? Not Toyota, for some very odd reason. > I've seen a looooot of guys who don't > put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if > the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the > hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't. It's quite a lot more complicated than that... SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the >>> two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the > hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't. that's pretty much it. they help with assembly, but mean nothing to the integrity of the mechanicals. > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the > two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax > rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors. loosen the wheel studs to finger tight, then drive around the block and brake hard a couple of times. loosens up screws, disks, the works. > The front pads (Wagner) have been on car since 55000+ miles (now have > 118000). They still have some good pad left. use honda pads next time. less dust, less fade, more even wear on the disk. aftermarket are simply not worth the compromise for the $5 you save. > On Dec 2, 10:08 pm, Tegger <teg...@tegger.c0m> wrote: >> "newman" <st74du...@verizon.net> wrote innews:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06: [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > HTH > JerryR I use the Harbor Freight caliper tool set for this on all corners. It's often on sale for $19.99. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732 Wagnor might have rebox the pads from other manufacturers. The later OEM Findlex (?) seem to last longer than the OEM Nissin. But I always put Akebono ceramics on all cars I help work on. www.akebonobrakes.com > Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty pressing the > rear brake pistons back. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > 4 wheel disc brakes > 118000 miles |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.