> > I'm glad to find this forum.
>
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
>> You overheated the engine? Very bad. Very damaging.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Yes, the clearance keep opening up...is that a warped camshaft gear in
> #1?
It's possible the camshaft is warped. A machine shop can check it for
true. Your mechanic should also check the cam/follower surfaces for
scuffing, indicative of damaged hardening. If the hardened coating is
compromised, the cam or the relevant follower will wear out extremely
quickly.
> Can you please elaborate more on the warped head? Are you talking
> about the cylinder head? It was already been 're-surface or flatten',
> the mechanic said.
If the head was warped and it was simply skimmed, that does not cure the
warp, it simply eliminates warp from the head/block mating surfaces. The
camshaft bearings will still be out-of-true and will get beat to death
by the camshaft. The correct procedure is to have the head straightened,
THEN skimmed.
Overheating is severely damaging to the engine. You should find out
whether or not the valve clearances are continually opening up and
causing that noise.
If compression and oil pressure are still good, you may want to consider
a replacement head, which is cheaper than a whole new engine.

Signature
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
Jeffrey D. - 27 Dec 2007 23:58 GMT
> >> You overheated the engine? Very bad. Very damaging.
>
[quoted text clipped - 38 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
Tegger,
Thank you very much for elaborating your answers.
Yes, the valves' clearance would keep opening up and have to do tune
up always.
I'll have the camshaft check first if that's the case.
If I have to replace the head, how much do you think the head would
cost?
Jeff
Tegger - 28 Dec 2007 00:48 GMT
>> If compression and oil pressure are still good, you may want to
>> consider a replacement head, which is cheaper than a whole new
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> If I have to replace the head, how much do you think the head would
> cost?
The head's going to be about $400 just for the part. Then there's the cost
of labor, and possible replacement of the valve guide oil seals.
I'd figure close to $1,000 for the job, if not more.
Make sure your mechanic tests the block for corrosion, oil pressure and
cylinder compression FIRST. No point in spending money on an engine which
has corrosion, poor compression or oil pressure.

Signature
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
Elle - 28 Dec 2007 00:56 GMT
Guy maybe oughta consider a second-hand engine for some $800
plus cost of installation.
http://www.asapmotors.com/honda-civic-16-base-p-4969.html?zenid=11c64af1ffb79918
6e6eadaaa88a58bf
Jeffrey D. - 16 Jan 2008 07:23 GMT
> Guy maybe oughta consider a second-handenginefor some $800
> plus cost of installation.
>
> http://www.asapmotors.com/honda-civic-16-base-p-4969.html?zenid=11c64...
Do I need the base or trhe vtec from the site? whats the difference
between the two???
Elle - 16 Jan 2008 16:07 GMT
"Jeffrey D." <jeffrey.t.dellosa@gmail.com> wrote
Elle wrote
>> Guy maybe oughta consider a second-handenginefor some
>> $800
>> plus cost of installation.
>>
>> http://www.asapmotors.com/honda-civic-16-base-p-4969.html?zenid=11c64...
> Do I need the base or trhe vtec from the site?
> whats the difference between the two???
Look at the numbers and letters stamped on the engine's
front as it sits in the car. They should be a little below
and to the right of the distributor housing as you stand at
the hood release, facing front. They are about 1 to 2 inches
high. Then match the letters and numbers with those shown
under "engine" at the following site:
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/CivicManual/pdf/3-14.pdf
About a third of these Civics were VTEC. The others,
non-VTEC. You can probably google and find whether the LX,
DX, etc. had VTEC or non-VTEC. Still, if you're in the
market for a new engine, get the exact engine number-letter
combination from its side.
VTEC engines have one set of cam lobes for high RPM; another
for low RPM. This allows more optimal intake and exhaust
valve timing, since the timing needs of the engine for best
(most fuel efficient) operation vary greatly from low to
high RPM.
Wikipedia has more.