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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 2008reading codes on 93 Civic 1.5
My 93 Civic runs, but not quite right. When under acceleration, the engine starts to run roughly. When the car's speed catches up to the gas pedal position, it starts to run smoothly again. Shifting into a higher gear and pushing the gas pedal causes rough running again, until the car finally reaches cruising speed. When faced with a slight incline that requires pushing the gas pedal, the rough running returns. It occurs to me that this seems like a manifold pressure problem because it corresponds to the gas pedal/speed ratio. The check engine light is not lit. I used to read codes on my 89 Accord by looking at the light on the computer under the driver's seat, but I don't see a computer under the seat in this car. I can't find anything that looks like a scanner terminal, either. This problem came on suddenly a couple of days ago when the weather went from 60 to about 15 degrees in a few hours. We parked the car in warm weather, and it no longer worked correctly in cold weather. Today it's 65 again, and it still isn't right. By the way, I unplugged the MAP sensor and started the car, and it ran like crap. So if the MAP sensor is bad, at least it's better than no MAP sensor. The first thing I did was change the fuel filter. It didn't fix the car, but it was due anyway. The only other thing I can think of that might cause such a problem is the oxygen sensor. Is there a way to check these components individually, or do I just need to figure out how to read codes? The engine light isn't on anyway, so what should I do if I don't get any codes? > My 93 Civic runs, but not quite right. When under acceleration, the > engine starts to run roughly. When the car's speed catches up to the [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > individually, or do I just need to figure out how to read codes? The > engine light isn't on anyway, so what should I do if I don't get any codes? 1. reconnect the map sensor. 2. check the ignition system - replace the plugs, leads and distributor cap is they're old. 3. say whether this is an automatic - clogged egr systems can give similar symptoms. > 1. reconnect the map sensor. I did that immediately, of course. > 2. check the ignition system - replace the plugs, leads and distributor > cap is they're old. I regapped the plugs and replaced the cap and rotor. Still have same wires. Could bad spark plug wires cause such a sudden and intermittent problem? > 3. say whether this is an automatic - clogged egr systems can give > similar symptoms. Manual transmission. >> 1. reconnect the map sensor. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > wires. Could bad spark plug wires cause such a sudden and intermittent > problem? absolutely. and re-gapping is a waste of time - it doesn't address electrical leakage as plugs age. ordinary plugs are only ~$2.50 each [use only ngk or denso] - simply replace. use a quality plug like iridium if you want best performance/economy - they're $10 each or less. >> 3. say whether this is an automatic - clogged egr systems can give >> similar symptoms. > > Manual transmission. > My 93 Civic runs, but not quite right. When under > acceleration, the engine starts to run roughly. When the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > with a slight incline that requires pushing the gas pedal, > the rough running returns. snip > This problem came on suddenly a couple of days ago when > the weather went from 60 to about 15 degrees in a few > hours. We parked the car in warm weather, and it no > longer worked correctly in cold weather. Today it's 65 > again, and it still isn't right. After tuning up the car (as Jim said, new wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, OEM only--they pay for themselves--and check timing), next I'd consider replacing the O2 sensor. Worst case this will be pre-emptive, especially on a car this old. You can buy an OEM O2 sensor for a lot less than what OEM online parts dealers want at https://www.automedicsupply.com/ . I used the latter for a new O2 sensor for my 91 Civic. Works great. The store shipped quickly. A bad O2 sensor will not necessarily set a code on the 93 Civic. Suspect next a clogged catalytic converter. Then the question is why it became clogged. Make sure the cooling system is topped off, too. > After tuning up the car (as Jim said, new wires, plugs, > distributor cap and rotor, OEM only--they pay for [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > new O2 sensor for my 91 Civic. Works great. The store > shipped quickly. Thanks for the tip. I'll look for my part there. It appears to be the more economical one-wire type, so I'm not too scared to buy one. That leaves just the new plugs and wires. > A bad O2 sensor will not necessarily set a code on the 93 > Civic. Thanks for the info. By the way, how do you read codes on this car? Do you have to get a Honda-specific scanner? Where is the connector? If you guys are right I won't need it this time, but I wouldn't mind knowing. > Suspect next a clogged catalytic converter. Then the > question is why it became clogged. > > Make sure the cooling system is topped off, too. The coolant looked good at the last oil change about 3 weeks ago. I noticed when I bought this car last summer that it didn't appear to have a catalytic converter. But I just went out and looked again and I see something vaguely converter-like just under the exhaust manifold in front of the engine. Is that where they hid it, or is that something else? I'll go ahead and finish the tuneup tomorrow and let you know how it runs after that. > Thanks for the info. By the way, how do you read codes on > this car? Do you have to get a Honda-specific scanner? I am pretty sure it's like my 91 Civic: Codes are read directly at the ECU via blinking flashing lights. See http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/ConcertoManual/62sk301/6-74.pdf for help. It's not difficult. No special scanner or other tool is required. The ECU is located under the front passenger footwell mat. >> Thanks for the info. By the way, how do you read codes on >> this car? Do you have to get a Honda-specific scanner? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > The ECU is located under the front passenger footwell mat. That's a funny place to put it. I haven't bothered to get a shop manual for this car yet, because I've never had any trouble with it. It's a great car. Everything is laid out so conveniently I didn't even need to look at a book when I changed the timing belt and water pump at 100,000 miles. It took me about an hour. I really love this car. Thanks for the info. > Elle wrote: >>> Thanks for the info. By the way, how do you read codes [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > water pump at 100,000 miles. It took me about an hour. I > really love this car. I can't do these in an hour, but I do them handily, leisurely and carefully within about two days (subsequent to many tips from this newsgroup and a good manual). I get a kick out of maintaining my 91 Civic as well. It's a huge reason why I do not go out and buy a new one or a more recent used one. > I get a kick out of maintaining my 91 Civic as well. It's a > huge reason why I do not go out and buy a new one or a more > recent used one. We have had this car for about 8 months, and have had dozens of people offering to buy it. I always wonder why manufacturers stop making such successful designs. If they were to make this car again without changing anything, they'd sell thousands of them. I'm not impressed with the newer cars. Big stupid wheels on a stupidly tall car, less gas mileage, and way to ostentatious. Ditto for my brother in law's new Camry. It just looks ridiculous next to his ten year old Camry. > We have had this car for about 8 months, and have had dozens of people > offering to buy it. I always wonder why manufacturers stop making such [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > mileage, and way to ostentatious. Ditto for my brother in law's new > Camry. It just looks ridiculous next to his ten year old Camry. I agree. I've got a 92 and a 93 for my wife. It sounds like we have the same problem. I just started a thread yesterday and just now flipped back and found yours. If you get yours solved, let me know. FYI, grab a Haynes for $20. It's not perfect but will get you thru most things, like checking codes. (jump the small 2 pin connecter under your glove box, right side, pull it out of the green rubber case, then watch CEL flash) By the way, I also had an 89 Accord a few years back. Ran it to 450,000 km and drove it to the wrecker. > By the way, I also had an 89 Accord a few years back. Ran it to > 450,000 km and drove it to the wrecker. My 89 accord had 275,000 miles, and then it was stolen. >> By the way, I also had an 89 Accord a few years back. Ran it to >> 450,000 km and drove it to the wrecker. > > My 89 accord had 275,000 miles, and then it was stolen. My '87 Integra had 750 miles, and then it was stolen (I'd owned it 2 weeks). :( > My 93 Civic runs, but not quite right. When under acceleration, the > engine starts to run roughly. When the car's speed catches up to the <SNIP> You may just have _one bad tank_ of gas. Do you run injector cleaner through it seasonally? I almost ditched a car when it suddenly went bad and I couldn't find the trouble. It was BAD GAS. 'Curly' >> My 93 Civic runs, but not quite right. When under acceleration, the >> engine starts to run roughly. When the car's speed catches up to the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > 'Curly' Yeah, I thought of that one, too. It was down to about a quarter tank when it went bad, and I filled it up at a BP station, but no change. |
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