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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 2008

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Ignition Stuck! - 1995 Civic

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arnold12@gmail.com - 07 Jan 2008 01:10 GMT
Hi all,

I have an automatic 1995 Honda Civic. The ignition switch was replaced
4 months ago after a burglar destroyed it with a screwdriver.

The ignition has been working until today. I cannot turn the key once
it is in the ignition. I've tried everything I read about on the
internet:

(1) Moving the steering wheel left and right while trying to turn the
key - the wheels are straight and the steering
    wheel is unlocked
(2) Making sure the car is in the park position
(3) Shifting the car into neutral and letting it roll a couple inches
(4) Spraying WD-40 into the keyhole

Any other ideas?
Elle - 07 Jan 2008 16:48 GMT
Car ignition keys do wear. You can take your old key to the
dealer parts/service department, and they can get you a
brand new one. This may very well fix the problem. It did
for my 1991 Civic a few years ago. Cost was under $10.

> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> couple inches
> (4) Spraying WD-40 into the keyhole
AZ Nomad - 07 Jan 2008 17:00 GMT
>Car ignition keys do wear. You can take your old key to the
>dealer parts/service department, and they can get you a
>brand new one. This may very well fix the problem. It did
>for my 1991 Civic a few years ago. Cost was under $10.

More often the problem is from using a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of
a....

I've had used cars where the key I got was a "last generation" key which worked,
but couldn't be copied.  Then it's is time to visit the dealer with a copy
of the title and/or registration.
Elle - 07 Jan 2008 17:56 GMT
> On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:48:17 -0700, Elle
> <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> dealer with a copy
> of the title and/or registration.

Right, I did not mean to say I had the dealer cut a key from
the old one. I am not sure what I brought in to the dealer
to get a brand new key. Maybe it was just the VIN. Either
way, it took minutes.
AZ Nomad - 07 Jan 2008 18:15 GMT
>> On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:48:17 -0700, Elle
>> <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>> dealer with a copy
>> of the title and/or registration.

>Right, I did not mean to say I had the dealer cut a key from
>the old one.
I never thought you meant that.  

What I was attempting to say was that sometimes a crappy key didn't get that
way from being worn out, but got that way from being an Nth generation copy.

> I am not sure what I brought in to the dealer
>to get a brand new key. Maybe it was just the VIN. Either
>way, it took minutes.
agreed.
arnold12@gmail.com - 07 Jan 2008 23:36 GMT
Thanks for the input, guys.

The ignition and keys are only four months old. So, I don't think the
problem is with the key. Plus, I tried using the spare key and that
didn't work.

> >> On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:48:17 -0700, Elle
> >> <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> agreed.
jim beam - 08 Jan 2008 04:11 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Any other ideas?

whoever replaced your ignition didn't do a complete job.  there are a
couple of interlock mechanisms built into the barrel and its housing.
if the lock was forced, chances are, one of these interlocks was
damaged.  full repair in this situation requires either careful
strip-down and examination of the entire mechanism, including the
interlocks, and/or replacing the housing.  you can often get these parts
from a junkyard and save a lot of money as they can be expensive new.
arnold12@gmail.com - 08 Jan 2008 05:50 GMT
> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Hi all,
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> interlocks, and/or replacing the housing.  you can often get these parts
> from a junkyard and save a lot of money as they can be expensive new.

Interesting... but, any idea why it suddenly stopped working 4 mo
later? The ignition was replaced 4 mo and I've had no problems until
yesterday morning.
jim beam - 08 Jan 2008 05:58 GMT
>> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi all,
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> later? The ignition was replaced 4 mo and I've had no problems until
> yesterday morning.

what was damaged is now broken.  still need to get it fixed...
arnold12@gmail.com - 08 Jan 2008 06:07 GMT
> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> what was damaged is now broken.  still need to get it fixed...

makes sense. thanks a million.
arnold12@gmail.com - 08 Jan 2008 06:28 GMT
> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
> >> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> what was damaged is now broken.  still need to get it fixed...

I'm not very knowledgeable about some of these terms. Sounds like I
don't need a new cylinder (which was replaced 4 mo ago), but perhaps a
new barrel and/or housing. Is this correct? A mechanic is looking at
my car now - just want to make sure he's not charging me for items I
don't need... Thanks again for the help.
jim beam - 08 Jan 2008 06:45 GMT
>> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>> arnol...@gmail.com wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> I'm not very knowledgeable about some of these terms. Sounds like I
> don't need a new cylinder (which was replaced 4 mo ago),

probably not, but be aware that if something is damaged, the cylinder
could also be damaged now.  it's just a soft die-casting.

> but perhaps a
> new barrel and/or housing. Is this correct?

i'd say look at the housing first.  there's a trick to getting the
barrel out in the first place - you need the key and there's a pin
located in a place you can't readily see - need to insert and twist key
to be able to push pin and remove cylinder.  you can probably get the
cylinder out/in without knowing this, but the barrel mechanism could be
damaged in the process.

> A mechanic is looking at
> my car now - just want to make sure he's not charging me for items I
> don't need... Thanks again for the help.

the "safe" bet is to replace the housing and the whole locking
mechanism, even though it's a lot more expensive.  if he has the honda
manual, the instructions on the locking mechanism and how to disassemble
are in the back of the section on the electrical system, not the
steering column section.

this stuff is real important to have working right - believe me, you
really don't want the steering lock mechanism to suddenly malfunction
when you're driving.
 
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