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Car Forum / Honda Cars / March 2008

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newbie Honda CR-V questions

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limehand - 01 Mar 2008 05:34 GMT
Hello Honda People!

I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)

The car was originally registered in Canada. Is it the same car that
was imported into the states or were the specs different in each
country?

What would be the best book to get to learn about DIY maintenance
valve clearances mechanical info etc? Preferably with big pictures.

Ive read about the valve lash problem that Honda wont admit to and was
wondering if an '99 engine that did have its belt changed at
160,000kms would have had the valves checked at the same time? I have
no records past 34,000 kms should I be worried? It drives well no
misfires or anything but Im no expert on this subject...It has around
182.000kms on it now.

A condition of purchase is that the car gets a "100 point check out"
from a Honda dealer before I buy it We pay for this. Would a
compression test tell the whole story on the valves enough to say yes
or no to buying? Or should I just get the valves checked in addition
to the "100 point check"? OR is there some other way of achieving some
peace of mind about this?

The car is perfect for my wife and I apart from this  Anything else I
should be worried about?

Thanks for so far

Michael
M.M. - 01 Mar 2008 16:11 GMT
> Hello Honda People!
>
> I have almost bought a 1999 CR-V and was wondering if I could start my
> education here with a few questions?( But if I should go and read a CR-
> V 101 somewhere maybe someone could point me there?)
>  ...

http://www.hondasuv.com/

and/or

http://www.crvownersclub.com/
motsco_ - 01 Mar 2008 16:37 GMT
> Hello Honda People!
>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Michael
-------------------------------

When you strike the deal, insist they are going to adjust the valves as
part of your purchase. Then make sure they adjust them to the loose side
of the specs.

Since it's new to you, you'll want to change the tranny fluid at least
once, and the Dual Pump Fluid in the rear diff, if it's an AWD. Take it
for the 'Parking Lot Test' and if you hear a scraping / growling noise
when you turn a tight left-hand circle at low speed, insist they have to
change the dual Pump Fluid for free too. The owner's manual and all the
keys should also come with it.

Read through this thread, then sign in and SEARCH for others.

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=31423&highlight=parking+test

The '99 is a good choice, more HP and you get the bonus of DRL and ABS
for sure, since it's from Canada, right?

'Curly'
limehand - 02 Mar 2008 06:23 GMT
> > Hello Honda People!
>
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks Curly...

Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)

I am learning fast I think but its great to think there are moe
knowledgable people i can ask. Especially when I get to building the
next engine with a V-TEC head...;^)

Michael
motsco_ - 03 Mar 2008 06:00 GMT
> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Michael
---------------------

Daytime Running Lights.

I think 90% of the Canadian CR-V's have ABS. I've only seen a couple
without, and I know one was a US import.

'Curly'
limehand - 03 Mar 2008 23:27 GMT
> > Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> > a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks Curly
Im just recovering from the cost of replacing the weatherstripping on
this potential purchase $960.00 CAD Im wondering if I should it myself
or something But wonder if I have to take out the door panels?

Have posted on this but maybe you can help with this?

cheers

Michael
motsco_ - 04 Mar 2008 01:38 GMT
>>> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
>>> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Michael
----------------------------

Please tell us Who (told you) and Why you think you need your
weatherstripping replaced. I've never heard of such a crock . . .

Something to do with windows that go UP slower than DOWN? Too much road
noise? What possible excuse?

'Curly'
limehand - 04 Mar 2008 04:57 GMT
> >>> Whats a DRL then? ABS brakes were just in Canada? This means there was
> >>> a US car and a Canadian car? (different import streams from Japan?)
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

"such a crock"......?

OK... I'm the one that doesn't know anything... I almost forgot there for
a second.

When the windows are powered down from being fully up (closed)
specifically the drivers window and its raining on this window (and
the other windows at the same time of course) the raindrops dont get
wiped off by the rubber stripping that is fitted horizontally on the
top of the door (not the very top of the door above the window but the
"top" where you can lean your arm on when sitting in the car with the
window fully down of course.

Now my assumption is that when this water goes in between the glass of
the window and the plastic/rubber piece (I call this piece weather
stripping) it continues down into the door and from there well I just
dont know where it goes but if the inside of the door (the metal
parts) gets wet and doesnt dry off it will rust and this might make a
hole in the door which of course will make me unhappy.

No one told me about this. I just sort of worked it out by myself.

cheers curly

Michael
motsco_ - 04 Mar 2008 05:18 GMT
> "such a crock"......?
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Michael
------------------------

Hmmmmm. I don't think any of my 8 CR-V windows 'squeegee' themselves
perfectly when going down.. There are three or four drain holes provided
at the bottom of the door, and a vinyl shield inside to keep the
moisture away from the controls and inner door panel. I've asked myself
whether I could adjust the trim that holds the 'squeegee' so it would
wipe better. I don't think it matters much since it NEVER comes up on
the newsgroups.  www.slhondaparts.com has your parts diagrams. Your
owner's manual is at
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/RJAAI001_OMANUAL.asp

'Curly'
limehand - 04 Mar 2008 06:47 GMT
> > "such a crock"......?
>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

I had a look at the two URL's you provided curly and neither added
more to what I know (not much) and this is the following.

The original strip did in fact come into contact with the glass and
therefore couldnt help but squeegee (good term) the glass (in my
opinion). I got this info from looking at a CR-V on the road side here
in Toronto it was quite tight and bent up a bit against the glass
quite different to my prospective car the strip on which seems to be
bowed out leaving a gap of three sixteenths I reckon in the middle.
Maybe this was caused by UV ? They seem brittle.

Thanks for the info about where the water goes by the way.

I called a couple of Honda dealers in Toronto and the part which is a
single piece is around $114.00 each. I then did a search and found a
couple of places where they were $26.00  or so, not so bad but I dont
know if I have to take off the panel inside the doors or just dig it
out from the outside and click a new one in (im hoping). One of the
parts girls said I had to take off the mirror on the front doors but
who knows? I get the impression these dealership parts people are all
in training still.
I am an old VW person that is sick of the unreliability of VWs these
days. And really like the CR-V when driving it. Its really perfect for
us. I just to make IT perfect 8)

Michael
motsco_ - 04 Mar 2008 16:06 GMT
> I am an old VW person that is sick of the unreliability of VWs these
> days. And really like the CR-V when driving it. Its really perfect for
> us. I just to make IT perfect 8)
>
> Michael

--------------------

If your prospective car has been 'unlocked' by a tow truck operator
(locksmith) a few times, that could explain why the trim is bowed out.
They jam wedges in there to get the 'slim Jim' down inside. My wife's is
that way more than mine, probably for the same reason. You could walk
into a body shop and ask the most experienced looking guy about it . . .

I know what you're saying about V Dub. I owned a couple and ditched them
as soon as I started hanging on a newsgroup! Volvo was the same, due to
the (same) electrics.

'Curly'
delbert brecht - 04 Mar 2008 21:45 GMT
Looks like the outside molding strips for each of the four windows cost
about $42 each. This is for the outside molding only which is all you should
have to replace. See this URL for a 1999 CRV. Best to drill down to the
appropriate page for you particular model though. Sunlight is the enemy of
rubber and plastic.

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=&hidIrn
o=&catcgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=1999&catcgry3=5DR+EX&catcgry4=LM&catcgry5=MOLDING&
vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0

You will need a few tools such as a door panel tool, a hook or pick, and
screwdrivers to get the door panel off. Taking the inside door panel off and
rolling the window down (do that before you disconnect the window motor wire
harness) is the only way I have ever done this job. The metal clips on the
molding just press into small rectangular holes in the door. Pry the old one
out and then press the new one in. Best to have a service manual to get the
panel off. Some tricky hidden stuff that must be removed on the door handle
and sometimes the speaker mount under the speaker grill. The manual shows
you the location of each of the plastic clips so you know where to place the
panel tool to pop them loose. The manual will tell you how to do it
properly. You can find manuals for the CRV on bit torrent or I got one on
Ebay for $3.00 on CD. They are just homemade scans (1300 pages worth)
probably just downloaded from bit torrent and then burned onto CD. The Body
section is where the door panel info is located.

I have had some success with "restoring" the pliability of degraded rubber
with a liquid compound used by Laser and Copier technicians that use it to
restore the tackiness of paper pickup rollers. It is call "Rubber
Rejuvenator" or "Rubber Roller Cleaner" and can be purchased from

http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/

I have also used a hot air gun to "unfold" rubber window moldings that got
caught up on the glass when it was going down and folded over and stayed
folded over when the window went back up. If they stay in that position very
long they will "set" the fold and only the most severe treatment will
restore them. After I heat the rubber I place a piece of wood on each side
of the rubber strip and keep it clamped in the unfolded position until it
cools and sets. Usually works.

3/4/08 1:473/4/08 1:47MKLough@gmail.com

>>> "such a crock"......?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 61 lines]
>
> Michael

pickleman
bluemoonmac@roadrunneryourpants.com (please remove yourpants)--
limehand - 05 Mar 2008 07:09 GMT
> Looks like the outside molding strips for each of the four windows cost
> about $42 each. This is for the outside molding only which is all you should
[quoted text clipped - 106 lines]
> pickleman
> bluemoon...@roadrunneryourpants.com (please remove yourpants)--

THANKS for the bittorrent lead MUCH appreciated. I spoke with seller
of car about this and his offer was I get the parts and he installs
for nothing BUT he did say it could be done from outside the car
without taking the panel off which presumably is a nightmare and a
thief of much time?

I just dont want to do it myself at this time of year or wait for July
It is getting on my nerves thinking about all this. I DO believe you
but MUST the panel come off? He said its an hour job. Can the panel
come off and go back on in one hour? (by a newbie) Do you reckon?

thanks pickleman

cheers
Michael
delbert brecht - 06 Mar 2008 01:25 GMT
I can't find in the service manual where they tell you a recommended
procedure on how to do this. I have only done it with the door panel off. It
isn't that big a job and you only have to learn on your first one the rest
are the same. I would do one of the rear doors first and when the panel is
off look at the set up and make a judgment as to the feasibility of doing it
without removing the door panel. I could have a door panel off in less than
15 minutes and then back together in 10. If you pry use a soft cloth to
prevent paint damage and do not pry u p or down on glass.

3/5/08 2:093/5/08 2:09MKLough@gmail.com

>> Looks like the outside molding strips for each of the four windows cost
>> about $42 each. This is for the outside molding only which is all you should
[quoted text clipped - 123 lines]
> cheers
> Michael

Signature

Pickleman
halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner.com
Please remove "yourpants" to reply
1988 Civic DX retired with 234K due to extensive rust and gas tank problems
1998 Civic HX MT with 138K
2000 CRV EX MT with 98K

limehand - 08 Mar 2008 01:39 GMT
> I can't find in the service manual where they tell you a recommended
> procedure on how to do this. I have only done it with the door panel off. It
[quoted text clipped - 142 lines]
> 1998 Civic HX MT with 138K
> 2000 CRV EX MT with 98K

Hello pickleman

I have been a busy boy and have had a chat with a friendly dealership
autobody person here in Toronto and he tells me the pieces we are
talking about can be removed and replaced from outside the doors using
a putty knife to get the clips undone after taking off the mirror and
a couple of screws.
and he says drop round and I will show you...8)  Soooo The BIG question
is did Honda manufacture a car that allowed rain to run through the
doors and put stripping on the door that was never intended to
actually clean the winow of rain (thus allowing the driver to see
through the window) or not? I would be disappointed to hear this is
standard on Honda CR-Vs

My neXt question will be Does anyone know if there was a diesel engine
made for the CR-V UK Europena market I think there was The next
question is of course has anyone ever put in a UK/Euro diesel into a
Can/American CR-V?

Michael
delbert brecht - 08 Mar 2008 20:43 GMT
3/7/08 20:393/7/08 20:39MKLough@gmail.com

> I have been a busy boy and have had a chat with a friendly dealership
> autobody person here in Toronto and he tells me the pieces we are
> talking about can be removed and replaced from outside the doors using
> a putty knife to get the clips undone after taking off the mirror and
> a couple of screws.

You are lucky to have a relationship with this person. If it can be done
from the outside without munging up the paint or anything and without
removing the door panel then take the person up on their offer and replace
these strips.
> and he says drop round and I will show you...8)  Soooo The BIG question
> is did Honda manufacture a car that allowed rain to run through the
> doors and put stripping on the door that was never intended to
> actually clean the winow of rain (thus allowing the driver to see
> through the window) or not? I would be disappointed to hear this is
> standard on Honda CR-Vs

Most cars are designed with flow through doors. Plastic protects the innards
and rain just flows through and out the bottom of the doors. Try cleaning
the glass with Rain-X and visibility will be adequate even in rainy weather.

> My neXt question will be Does anyone know if there was a diesel engine
> made for the CR-V UK Europena market I think there was The next
> question is of course has anyone ever put in a UK/Euro diesel into a
> Can/American CR-V?

Best to put this question up in a separate thread if you want a response to
it.

Signature

Pickleman
halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner.com
Please remove "yourpants" to reply
1988 Civic DX retired with 234K due to extensive rust and gas tank problems
1998 Civic HX MT with 138K
2000 CRV EX MT with 98K

 
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