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Car Forum / Honda Cars / April 2008Accord 98 EX V6 Engine & Reverse Noise Mysteries
I have over 85 K miles on my 98 V6 sedan. A few weeks ago it started making two noises -- don't know if they are related. Driving forward, the engine makes a mechanical noise that sounds to me like scissors opening and closing; sharpening a chef's knife against a sharpening rod; a steam radiator valve letting off steam intermittently; or someone shushing, shhh, shhh, shhh. The noise stops at idle and seems to pick up in rhythm as I drive faster. Related or not? I hear a high pitched "eeeeeeeeeee" sound when I go into reverse. Can't pinpoint the location. Thanks. >I have over 85 K miles on my 98 V6 sedan. A few weeks ago it started > making two noises -- don't know if they are related. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > intermittently; or someone shushing, shhh, shhh, shhh. The noise > stops at idle and seems to pick up in rhythm as I drive faster. Sounds like the brakes as opposed to the engine. If you rev the engine while in Park and not moving does it happen? If it only happens with motion I would rule the engine out. > Related or not? I hear a high pitched "eeeeeeeeeee" sound when I go > into reverse. Can't pinpoint the location. Lots of cars do that. Seth4/5/08 9:11pUKJj.344339$r03.166016@fe10.news.easynews.com >> I have over 85 K miles on my 98 V6 sedan. A few weeks ago it started >> making two noises -- don't know if they are related. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Lots of cars do that. Small rocks trapped between the rotor and the sheet metal splash shield on the disk brakes will make this sound. The noise is different when backing up than going forward. Noise stops when you stop and changes frequency as you drive faster. One day it will just go away when the rock wears off enough to fall out. Sometimes the built in wear indicators on Hondas make a similar noise. Pull your tires and check the pads if you are concerned.  SignaturePickleman halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner.com Please remove "yourpants" to reply 1998 Civic HX MT with 142K 2000 CRV EX MT with 98K Thanks for all replies, it is most likely brake related. Friend just told me he has heard my brakes and thought I knew about it. Unless the sound of the brake wear indicator has changed between my first two sets or my hearing is shot, I don't hear that characteristic screech on (forward) braking, so I like the rock theory. I just gunned the engine in park and didn't notice the noise at all -- the problem is motion related. I did notice something interesting: the engine sputters at 4,500 RPM and doesn't go beyond that, like 1-1,500 RPM short of red line. Did an engine governor kick in or do I have yet another problem with the car? > Seth4/5/08 9:11pUKJj.344339$r03.166...@fe10.news.easynews.com > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > 1998 Civic HX MT with 142K > 2000 CRV EX MT with 98K > Thanks for all replies, it is most likely brake related. Friend just > told me he has heard my brakes and thought I knew about it. Unless [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I just gunned the engine in park and didn't notice the noise at all -- > the problem is motion related. If the noise increases and decreases in direct relation to car speed, it's almost certainly brake related. You're in the DC area it appears. Don't know how much rain/snow you get in winter, so the following may not apply. A common source of the noise you describe is rust on the perimeter of the rotor. This builds up, eventually contacting the slide shims on the pad mount bracket. The contact is not uniform, so you get a chk-chk-chk sort of noise. To see if this is the case, you need to pull the pads and shims off, and look for bright scuff marks on the shims. See here for a photo of that, almost all the way down at the bottom of that page. <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/moredetail/brakes2_detail.html> SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ One of my passengers isolated the sound to the left rear wheel. I checked the sheet metal splash guard? that hugs the inside of the brake rotor and did find any objects. I checked it by pulling in or out on it and listening and feeling for blockage or objects. That noise that the wheel makes when reverse sounds like violin string vibration more than the vague 'eeeeeeeeeee' I described earlier. What's odd is the asymmetry of the sound, if indeed it is coming from the same wheel in both directions. Why a rustling or scraping sound when moving forward and a violin string vibration should moving backward, if rocks or rust? And why doesn't the friction just scrape away the whatever by now? Maybe it is the brake pad or something with brake caliper. I'll have to bring it into the shop when I get a chance. (I would take the wheel apart myself to inspect but I have the facility or torque wrench to put the tire back properly.) > > Thanks for all replies, it is most likely brake related. Friend just > > told me he has heard my brakes and thought I knew about it. Unless [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > One of my passengers isolated the sound to the left rear wheel. I > checked the sheet metal splash guard? that hugs the inside of the > brake rotor and did find any objects. I checked it by pulling in or > out on it and listening and feeling for blockage or objects. Check the very bottom of the splash guard and see if it's rubbing against the rotor. Over time they get rusty and begin contacting the rotor at the bottom. And you still need to check the pad mounting shims as I described before. >> See here for a photo of that, almost all the way down at the bottom >> of that page. <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/moredetail/brakes2_detail.html> SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I did notice something interesting: the engine sputters at 4,500 RPM > and doesn't go beyond that, like 1-1,500 RPM short of red line. Did > an engine governor kick in or do I have yet another problem with the > car? ----------------------- The computer in some cars won't let you go anywhere near redline unless the car is in a gear. Your Accord may be that way. Same reason you're never supposed to go WOT with a chainsaw unless it's in wood. 'Curly' >> I did notice something interesting: the engine sputters at 4,500 RPM >> and doesn't go beyond that, like 1-1,500 RPM short of red line. Did >> an engine governor kick in or do I have yet another problem with the >> car? >----------------------- >The computer in some cars won't let you go anywhere near redline unless >the car is in a gear. Your Accord may be that way. Same reason you're Can you name a single car that is like that? WTF difference does it make wether or not the engine is under load? Valve float doesn't care. 2000 civic with A/T will not exceed 4500rpm unless in gear. t >>> I did notice something interesting: the engine sputters at 4,500 RPM >>> and doesn't go beyond that, like 1-1,500 RPM short of red line. Did [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >WTF difference does it make wether or not the engine is under load? >Valve float doesn't care. > 2000 civic with A/T will not exceed 4500rpm unless in gear. eh? mine did. are you sure the timing belt hadn't slipped? the only vehicle i know to have a deliberately low rev limit in different circumstances is a ferrari when being driven with the valet key. > t > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> WTF difference does it make wether or not the engine is under load? >> Valve float doesn't care. jim beam4/8/08 23:09LPCdnZ8E3bHormHanZ2dnUVZ_vDinZ2d@speakeasy.net >> 2000 civic with A/T will not exceed 4500rpm unless in gear. > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >>> WTF difference does it make wether or not the engine is under load? >>> Valve float doesn't care. In my experience this behavior is sometimes mimicked by an ignition breakdown at high rpms. Most of the Hondas that I saw it appear were Preludes for some reason. Usually traced to something simple like spark plug gaps getting too big or bad plug/coil wires or breakdown of internal insulation in the coil or valve adjustment. It sometimes FEELS like a fuel delivery problem. Check all the simple stuff first. Once had a gentleman bring in an accord that would start when cold but then die out when warm and would not restart until cold again. He had spent $1500 dollars trying to fix it at a local garage and finally brought it to the dealership. A quick call to Honda's TechLine indicated that there had been a batch of distributor rotors with a injection mold defect that allowed spark shorting to the distributor shaft. The hole that the spark traveled through was smaller than a hair when warm and absent when cold. The fix was a part that cost less than $5.00. He only brought it in when his previous mechanic told him that the car needed a new ECU for $600 (this was in the 80's). STF-Simple things first. The bad rotor looked perfect. A new rotor fixed the problem 100%. SignaturePickleman halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner.com Please remove "yourpants" to reply 1998 Civic HX MT with 142K 2000 CRV EX MT with 98K |
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