So when you say "especially if you bleed at the m/c
first" you imply bench-bleeding?

Where is the bleeder valve for the ABS modulator, or is it obvious?
My Hanes manual does not show it.

installing dry, then bleeding at the line connections is exactly the
same as bleeding on the bench as far as the fluid is concerned.  only
it's much more controlled.  and you don't lose [use] as much fluid
overall.  and there's no worries about any leakage when you're installing.

i've done both, and frankly, bleeding on the bench is a complete waste
of time i'll never bother with ever again.

I made plugs for my self about 25 years ago. I used an old
brake tube and an old brake hose from a Datsun(?) or
Toyota(?). I cut the fittings off the brake hoses, dug
the remaining rubber out of the fittings and then brazed
(bronze rod) the hole closed. I now had a female plug to
put on the end of a disconnected brake tube, to prevent
the fluid from all siphoning out. For a set of _male_ plugs,
I cut the brake tube flush with the male nut, and brazed
it closed. I snug the plugs down with a pair of wrenches.

These bunch of male nuts and female nuts come in
very handy when disconnecting the brake system.

A person could probably do the same thing with a propane
torch, some plumbers solder and flux. Steel wool etc. the
metal bright and shiny, apply flux and solder. Don't cut the
tube flush... leave some sticking out and solder the tube
closed.