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Car Forum / Honda Cars / May 2008Rotor Work for 96' Accord
I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new rotors and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He said the "front end" has to be removed so it's mostly a labor issue. Thanks for any advice. > I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new rotors > and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He said the > "front end" has to be removed so it's mostly a labor issue. Thanks > for any advice. That's correct. The steering knuckle has to be removed from the car and the hub pressed off before the rotor can be removed. Honda changed the design for the '98 model year to make rotors easier to remove. You still have the old, bad design.  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess I have to expect expenditures like this for a 13 year old car. >> I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new rotors >> and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He said the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Honda changed the design for the '98 model year to make rotors easier to >remove. You still have the old, bad design. > Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess I > have to expect expenditures like this for a 13 year old car. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> Honda changed the design for the '98 model year to make rotors easier to >> remove. You still have the old, bad design. but the real question is why you think you need the rotors replacing in the first place. what are the symptoms you're experiencing? >>>> I almost fell out of my chair when my dealer told me that new >>>> rotors and pads would cost $470 total. Is this about right? He [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > but the real question is why you think you need the rotors replacing > in the first place. what are the symptoms you're experiencing? Armand appears to be in Noo Joisey. Rust is probably a factor, along with thickness under minimum limits. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess I >> have to expect expenditures like this for a 13 year old car. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >but the real question is why you think you need the rotors replacing in >the first place. what are the symptoms you're experiencing? Heavy pulsing of the brake pedal and the rotors were already cut twice. >>> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I >>> guess [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Heavy pulsing of the brake pedal and the rotors were already cut > twice. Has your mechanic checked rotor runout with a runout gauge? Considering the cost of replacement, it would be worth making certain the rotors are in fact out-of-true before committing to the work. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess > I [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Heavy pulsing of the brake pedal and the rotors were already cut twice. typically, this is solvable by cleaning the wheel interface, disk and wheel, then smearing a little anti-seize. re-torquing the lug nuts is critical too. needs to be in the correct sequence, with a torque wrench, in a 2 or more step process. it's very common for shops to use air tools when tightening and what you're experiencing is the result. last thing - try the above and see if it works. if not, go ahead and get the rotors replaced. in my experience, once a disk is cut, the problem becomes much less soluble. jim beam5/5/08 8:53uIWdnWL99qDUnoLVnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@speakeasy.net >>>> Thanks Tegger. My service guy is usually straight up with me and I guess >> I [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > get the rotors replaced. in my experience, once a disk is cut, the > problem becomes much less soluble. Excess heat especially when combined with uneven lug nut torque can cause problems. Every source of heat build up needs to be checked and eliminated before the rotors are replaced or it will happen again. Hoses can develop broken inner linings that act as check valves and do not release applied pressure much like the check valves in our veins. Frozen slide "ways" on the calipers or frozen slide pins will cause brake drag. Pushrod adjustment is a another source of dragging brakes and thus excess heat. There have been several really good posts on this topic lately with detailed descriptions on how to isolate the problem. Check this group and alt.autos.honda. Another source of heat that is often overlooked because it is not obvious is pad composition. When I worked at a Ford (ugh!) garage as a service manager, there was a problem with Torino station wagons where the composition of the brake pad material allowed transfer of friction material to the surface of the rotor and so you ended up with two high friction surfaces instead of one and brake application generated twice as much heat. Not until the pads were replaced with a new updated pad material and the rotors cleaned of old residue and trued up did the problem of warped rotors disappear. If the pads you are using are aftermarket, then ditch them. Ask the dealer if there is Tech bulletin or service news item on this problem and go from there. If the pads have an updated part number use those instead of the old number. SignaturePickleman halfsour@roadyourpantsrunner.com Please remove "yourpants" to reply 1998 Civic HX MT with 142K 2000 CRV EX MT with 98K |
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