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Car Forum / Honda Cars / May 200893 Del Sol Automatic Can the oil pan gasket be replaced easily ?
Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? just snug the nuts up a little [not too much] and leave it alone. try a different brand of oil too - castrol did wonders for leaky seals and gaskets on my 89. still haven't had to change what was a serious dripping leak. > Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? probably have to wrestle with the exhaust. might try a dose of those leak sealer goops; they do wonders with a low pressure rubber gasket leak. >> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > > probably have to wrestle with the exhaust. might try a dose of those > leak sealer goops; they do wonders with a low pressure rubber gasket > leak. application of goop requires pan removal. in which case, you may as well replace the gasket properly. much better to re-snug the bolts and see if it fixes the problem. 9 times out of 10, it does. > >> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > well replace the gasket properly. much better to re-snug the bolts and > see if it fixes the problem. 9 times out of 10, it does. naw, just the mouse milk you pour into the oil. i had a leaky rear main seal on a volvo a while back, wasn't up to digging my way down to it; the parts guy (mom n pop store, not poop boys) looks it up in a catalog, says yep it might be susceptible, sells me a bottle of the stuff. don't remember which brand. did a pretty good job stopping the leak. doesn't work on the gasket inside the vtec solenoid, btw, i guess it's probably not rubber. goes through a quart a week. >>>> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? >>> probably have to wrestle with the exhaust. might try a dose of those [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > naw, just the mouse milk you pour into the oil. no way. that's stuff is not just clogging your leaks, it's clogging the oil ways you want to remain open too. terrible advice. > i had a leaky rear > main seal on a volvo a while back, wasn't up to digging my way down to [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > doesn't work on the gasket inside the vtec solenoid, btw, i guess it's > probably not rubber. goes through a quart a week. > >>>> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > >>> probably have to wrestle with the exhaust. might try a dose of those [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > no way. that's stuff is not just clogging your leaks, it's clogging the > oil ways you want to remain open too. terrible advice. all oil formulations have a dose of seal swellers to keep the rubber gaskets tight. some sort of solvent, i assume. now they have those oils for older cars, which have a bigger dose in them. i'm not sure the oil travels through any rubber hoses or other apertures which are small enough in diameter that they would swell enough to strangle the flow, even with the big dose you get in the leak stopper products. everything has its price, of course, making the rubber exosed to this stuff bigger and softer can't help but make it wear faster and get leaker, but if it's already worn and leaky, you're not losing much and saving yourself some time before getting to it. my experience is that a single dose of the stuff can sometimes reestablish a seal enough that it will stay sealed even when you change the oil and don't add any more. it's not like they're dumping oatmeal or something into the oil to clog the holes, like cooling system leak fixes do. not the "reputable" products anyway. >>>>>> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? >>>>> probably have to wrestle with the exhaust. might try a dose of those [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > clog the holes, like cooling system leak fixes do. not the "reputable" > products anyway. quality oils do indeed have seal conditioners, but they're not the same as seal swellers, the garbage you buy in a little bottle that offers temporary respite before things fall apart for good. [conditioners are mainly plasticizers that keep the material flexible enough to do its job. there may be a little swelling, but it's small. swellers can bloat seals almost unrecognizably. they offer sealing while the seal is still in swell mode, but after that, it's completely gone.] > Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? Do I need to remove the exhaust pipe the runs under the oil pan or can the pan be "angled" out once all the bolts are out ? >> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > > Do I need to remove the exhaust pipe the runs under the oil pan or can > the pan be "angled" out once all the bolts are out ? got to remove the exhaust. beware - this is a non-trivial exercise. the bolts on the exhaust manifold are frequently hard to get off, and if they don't strip [which is also likely] harder to get back on. seriously, unless there is a real leak, and it doesn't disappear after a week or two with a decent oil with seal conditioners like castrol, you're /much/ better off just re-snugging the bolts onto the existing gasket. don't over-tighten though because then you bend the pan metal and then it leaks worse. also, look for leaks above that gasket as it may be running down from another location. > >> Or a frame piece needs to be removed ? > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > also, look for leaks above that gasket as it may be running down from > another location. OK I will invest in a air compressor. this week. Gasket looks gone from what I can see. |
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