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Car Forum / Honda Cars / August 2008A/T skipping 1st gear
My '94 Accord LX never had a transmission problem before but today, after a short stop, I had a hard time getting the car rolling. It was as if you tried to start a manual transmission car in the 3rd gear. So the 1st and possibly even the 2nd gear was skipped. Also, the A/T speed indicator in the instrument panel was flashing the #4 gear position. According to the official Honda Service Manual this blinking means that the TCM senses an abnormality in the input or output systems and the exact nature of the problem could be diagnosed only by reading a special code from the service check connector. Unfortunately I don't have that code reading tool, so it looks like Monday I'm going to have to take the car to a shop that hopefully won't tell me to have the whole A/T replaced for more than the car is worth. In the meantime I wonder if anybody experienced similar situation and could fill me in how it was resolved. DB >My '94 Accord LX never had a transmission problem before but today, >after a short stop, I had a hard time getting the car rolling. It was as [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >DB On my '92, I had a similar thing happen. The trans goes into a 'cripple' mode which is third gear. It'll get you off the road and possibly to a garage. My problem was that the transmission computer was gone....or rather the electrolytic capacitors were leaking (internally). I replaced the caps which, as I understand, is very similar to what's done during a 'rebuild' of the circuit board. And everything was back to normal. YMMV. Good luck. > On my '92, I had a similar thing happen. The trans goes into a > 'cripple' mode which is third gear. It'll get you off the road and > possibly to a garage. > > My problem was that the transmission computer was gone....or rather > the electrolytic capacitors were leaking (internally). I guess this is what the Service Manual calls TCM (Transmission Control Module?) > I replaced the caps which, as I understand, is very similar to what's > done during a > 'rebuild' of the circuit board. I don't even know where to look for it and it is probably something I would not even want to try, anyway. Way over my head! > And everything was back to normal. Good for you. I did not mention earlier that after that short stop, I also had to run the starter longer than usual, and that never happened before, either. It usually just starts right away. I did not mention it because I didn't think it was related to the A/T problem, but now I keep wondering. > YMMV. Good luck. Thanks, DB >> On my '92, I had a similar thing happen. The trans goes into a >> 'cripple' mode which is third gear. It'll get you off the road and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >I guess this is what the Service Manual calls TCM (Transmission Control >Module?) Yes, I believe you are correct. >> I replaced the caps which, as I understand, is very similar to what's >> done during a >> 'rebuild' of the circuit board. > >I don't even know where to look for it and it is probably something I >would not even want to try, anyway. Way over my head! Mine was located on the passenger side, under the footrest(an angled plate from the floor toward the firewall) ...pull carpeting and, if yours is in the same area, you will see the modlule(and the engine/fuel control module{computer} is next to it.{I'm referencing my car}. >> And everything was back to normal. > >Good for you. I was lucky, that's all. >I did not mention earlier that after that short stop, I also had to run >the starter longer than usual, and that never happened before, either. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Thanks, >DB > Mine was located on the passenger side, under the footrest(an angled > plate from the floor toward the firewall) ...pull carpeting and, if > yours is in the same area, you will see the modlule(and the > engine/fuel control module{computer} is next to it.{I'm referencing my > car}. Yes, I also found its location in the Honda Service Manual. I missed it earlier. Both the TCM and the ECM are in the same general area you described. However, to my surprise, the problem seemed to have disappeared when this morning I turned on the engine and backed out from the garage & then moved it back. Also the #4 gear indicator is not flashing anymore. I am going to take a short drive to see if the problem reappears but even if it does not, I will still be wondering if I should take it to a Honda shop tomorrow to check things out. But how can they check it out if the problem does not manifests itself to the service guys? I just might be stuck with a big bill without anything having been fixed. I wonder if it was some kind of temporary short at the A/T gear position switch, next to the shift lever on the driver side. From what I could see by peeking through some holes, that switch does have a bunch of bare wire connectors. The Service manual does indicate that as one of several possible reasons for the kind of symptoms I was experiencing. DB > ...the problem seemed to have > disappeared when this morning I turned on the engine... > ...the #4 gear indicator is not flashing anymore. Maybe you have an intermitttent connection or a failing sensor. Could it be heat-related? > ...how can they check it out if the problem does not manifests itself to > the service guys? The engine and transmission computers retain their error codes until reset.  SignatureChuck > Maybe you have an intermitttent connection or a failing sensor. Could > it be heat-related? Could be. I drove early evening about 4 miles to a restaurant and then back and everything seemed to be all right. However, it was a cool evening and the engine probably did not even heat up to optimal temp. > The engine and transmission computers retain their error codes until > reset. Good point. I didn't even think of it. So that in itself makes it worth to visit a shop tomorrow. Thanks for the comments, DB > The engine and transmission computers retain their error codes until > reset. Well, at last I visited the nearby Honda dealer's shop. The error code that was stored was "8" and the cause was said to be shift control solenoid B failure. Because the solenoid works now, my earlier problem was deemed to be an indication that the solenoid started to fail and needed to be replaced. Unfortunately they had to place it on order, so I'll be in limbo till it arrives. Checking the Service Manual, I thought the symptoms were more like what is indicated by code "5", indicating a short or failing A/T gear position switch because that would skip gear one. Symptom for code "8" is that the A/T is stuck in the 1st or 4th gear. But hey, maybe it was stuck in 4th, though I was able to move the shift lever to all forward gears and before that to "R" as well. Perhaps the problem started right after I got out of reverse. The Service Manual includes quite an involved troubleshooting procedure for code "8" to determine whether the cause was indeed the solenoid or some short in the wires connected to the solenoid. I just hope the mechanic took the time to go through that procedure instead of taking the easy (and expensive) way out by prescribing a new solenoid. Otherwise I might end up with the same problem later on, plus an unnecessary expense. DB > The error code > that was stored was "8" and the cause was said to be shift control > solenoid B failure. Because the solenoid works now, my earlier problem > was deemed to be an indication that the solenoid started to fail and > needed to be replaced. I had that same problem on my '88 Prelude. When hot the resistance of solenoids A and B both went to nearly 1,000 ohms. Normally they're at 24 ohms. I noticed the problem first as a "flare" in the shifting between second and third. After a while the solenoids exhibited high resistance even when cold and the computer started to complain. > The Service Manual includes quite an involved troubleshooting > procedure for code "8" to determine whether the cause was indeed the > solenoid or some short in the wires connected to the solenoid. I just > hope the mechanic took the time to go through that procedure instead > of taking the easy (and expensive) way out by prescribing a new > solenoid. Not likely and not profitable for the shop. Be sure you get the "bad" computer module if they replace it. Better yet measure the resistance yourself before giving them the car again. How many hundreds of dollars is a new computer? How much will you spend if you just have a bad connector or completely different problem? Some symptoms overlap and you may be seeing a false positive. > Otherwise I might end up with the same problem later on, > plus an unnecessary expense. I had a bad connector at the computer the last time I saw the #8 error code. I substituted a known good computer. (A rare $5 find on eBay.) Problem remained. Cleaned the connector at the transmission. Problem remained. Fixed a poorly seated contact at the computer end of the cable. Problem fixed. SignatureChuck > I had that same problem on my '88 Prelude. When hot the resistance of > solenoids A and B both went to nearly 1,000 ohms. Normally they're at > 24 ohms. I noticed the problem first as a "flare" in the shifting > between second and third. After a while the solenoids exhibited high > resistance even when cold and the computer started to complain. Well, when the problem happened it was pretty hot. Since then I tried to limit my driving during the cooler parts of the day and for short distances, just in case it was heat related. >> The Service Manual includes quite an involved troubleshooting >> procedure for code "8" to determine whether the cause was indeed the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Not likely and not profitable for the shop. Be sure you get the "bad" > computer module if they replace it. Only the solenoid will be replaced. > Better yet measure the resistance yourself before giving them the car > again. How many hundreds of dollars is a new computer? How much will > you spend if you just have a bad connector or completely different > problem? Some symptoms overlap and you may be seeing a false positive. I agree but I am willing to risk the couple hundred dollars for the solenoid that will probably give me a good case to have the problem fixed for free if it turns out that not the solenoid was the culprit. I will also make sure to get the old solenoid from them. > I had a bad connector at the computer the last time I saw the #8 error > code. I substituted a known good computer. (A rare $5 find on eBay.) > Problem remained. Cleaned the connector at the transmission. Problem > remained. Fixed a poorly seated contact at the computer end of the > cable. Problem fixed. You are obviously handier with these thing than I am. By the way, I wonder if there ever was a Honda service bulletin issued on this subject. Is there any place on the Net where one can find all Honda SBs? DB >> Be sure you get the "bad" computer module if they replace it. > Only the solenoid will be replaced. Oops. I was thinking solenoids and wrote computer module. The damage to your wallet from a new solenoid assembly should be less than $200 plus labor. SignatureChuck >>> Be sure you get the "bad" computer module if they replace it. >> Only the solenoid will be replaced. > > Oops. I was thinking solenoids and wrote computer module. > The damage to your wallet from a new solenoid assembly should be less than > $200 plus labor. --------------------------- There's a good TSB about the solenoids in the CLUTCH / TRANSMISSION section here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/crv/index.html > There's a good TSB about the solenoids in the CLUTCH / TRANSMISSION > section here: > > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/crv/index.html Not applicable for my case though. DB > Oops. I was thinking solenoids and wrote computer module. > The damage to your wallet from a new solenoid assembly should be less > than $200 plus labor. Actually $247. DB Well, at last my Honda dealer got the shift control solenoid and installed it. That gives me now some peace of mind. However, I still wonder if the short drive (about 3 miles) that took me to get the crippled car home caused any other damage in the A/T. Since the lower gears did not engage, there must have been excessive wear on the clutch pads inside, just as if you try to start a M/T car in 3rd or 4th gear. When I got home I could even smell a slight burn odor which I figured must have been caused by the friction from the clutch pads. If my guess is right, the ATF then must have absorbed a bunch of burned particles from that pads and maybe at a minimum the A/T should be flushed. I was kinda' surprised that the Honda service techies did not call my attention to this. Am I perhaps too concerned here? DB > ...I still > wonder if the short drive (about 3 miles) that took me to get the > crippled car home caused any other damage in the A/T. Since the lower > gears did not engage... The usual default gears when the transmission computer goes into impaired operation mode are second and fourth. You start out in second and, skipping third, go to fourth. > When I got home I could even smell a slight burn odor which > I figured must have been caused by the friction from the clutch pads. It's unlikely that you smelled something from the transmission. The transmission is sealed. The only possible opening is the dipstick tube. Pull out the transmission dipstick. The fluid should be pink and not smell burnt. > Am I perhaps too concerned here? Yes. SignatureChuck > The usual default gears when the transmission computer goes into > impaired operation mode are second and fourth. You start out in second > and, skipping third, go to fourth. I wish I had known that. My usual habit is to set the gear into 3rd when I am in the city with max. 35 MPH speed limit. I think that's what I was doing then. Thanks for this info anyway. It might come handy one day. > It's unlikely that you smelled something from the transmission. The > transmission is sealed. The only possible opening is the dipstick > tube. > > Pull out the transmission dipstick. The fluid should be pink and not > smell burnt. I checked and it still looks pink w/o any burnt smell. >> Am I perhaps too concerned here? > > Yes. Good! :-) DB > Well, at last my Honda dealer got the shift control solenoid and > installed it. That gives me now some peace of mind. However, I still > wonder if the short drive (about 3 miles) that took me to get the > crippled car home caused any other damage in the A/T. Since the lower > gears did not engage, there must have been excessive wear on the clutch > pads inside, the clutch packs only slip during the actual shift. after that, any differential is taken up by the torque converter. > just as if you try to start a M/T car in 3rd or 4th gear. > When I got home I could even smell a slight burn odor which I figured [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > DB > the clutch packs only slip during the actual shift. after that, any > differential is taken up by the torque converter. Thanks, that's reassuring. One thing that still bugs me is why I smelled that burn odor when I got home with my car. It must have come from somewhere under the hood. DB > One thing that still bugs me is why I > smelled that burn odor when I got home with my car. It must have come > from somewhere under the hood. Dragging brakes. Dripping oil on some hot engine part. Belt slipping. Belt rubbing against something. Are the motor mounts intact? Did it happen one time only? If it happens again note the conditions. Temperature, humidity, travel on an inclined surface (which will shift the engine on the mounts), heavy load, recent average speed. SignatureChuck >> One thing that still bugs me is why I >> smelled that burn odor when I got home with my car. It must have come [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Temperature, humidity, travel on an inclined surface (which will shift > the engine on the mounts), heavy load, recent average speed. It only happened that one time. However, the original problem reappeared again last night despite the replaced shift control solenoid. The #4 gear indicator started flashing after a short stop at an ATM machine. Luckily, this time I knew to try to switch into gear 2 to get the car going without all that torque converter work to get some speed. The problem seemed to have disappeared after a longer stop, just like the first time. I wonder what it is with short stops that cause this problem. It might be an indication of a more serious problem developing and I would like to prevent it without spending another $300+ for the wrong medicine. Any ideas? DB > ...the original problem > reappeared again last night despite the replaced shift control > solenoid. The #4 gear indicator started flashing after a short stop > at an ATM machine. That car just wants some cash from the machine. > Luckily, this time I knew to try to switch into > gear 2 to get the car going without all that torque converter work to > get some speed. That's probably unnecessary. The transmission control computer limits you to second and fourth gears only when in "limp home" mode. > The problem seemed to have disappeared after a longer > stop, just like the first time. > I wonder what it is with short stops > that cause this problem. It could be some heat build-up causing the problem. > It might be an indication of a more serious > problem developing and I would like to prevent it without spending > another $300+ for the wrong medicine. Did the $300 result in the actual change of the shift control solenoid assembly? Did you get the old part? Let's assume that a new solenoid was actually installed. I recall that you have the service manual. Can you read the transmission control unit error codes without a service tool. At least on older models you just watch the flashing lamp on the TCU itself. If so, what error code is flashing now? Still an eight as before? The TCU itself may be failing or it could be a problem in the wiring. A short to battery voltage, an open circuit, a low resistance to ground or an adjacent circuit will register in the TCU and store an error code. The TCU does not differentiate among various conditions. If any anomaly pops up in the shift control solenoid B circuit for instance, the TCU lamp flashes 8 times. Some oil leaks into the connector in the engine compartment and the technician leaps to the conclusion that the solenoid must be changed. As Tom and Ray will tell you, he had a boat payment due. SignatureChuck > That car just wants some cash from the machine. Maybe just my service technician. > That's probably unnecessary. The transmission control computer limits > you to second and fourth gears only when in "limp home" mode. Well, as I wrote before, when in city with speed limits 35 or under, I like to drive with the AT gear in D3 position but in this case all I got was the torque converter acting like a slipping MT clutch. It was obviously not engaging the 1st gear. Same in D4 position. I was able to start almost normally with the shift lever in D2 position. > It could be some heat build-up causing the problem. I doubt it because I operated the car for only a few miles before the incident and it was night time. Then I drove another couple miles to a restaurant where I spent about an hour and after that the symptom was gone and still is gone. So this issue seems to be transient. The only common thing between the two similar episodes was the short stop. > Did the $300 result in the actual change of the shift control solenoid > assembly? Did you get the old part? Oh yes, I explicitly asked for it and could tell the Honda dealership's technician installed a new one. > Let's assume that a new solenoid was actually installed. I recall that > you have the service manual. Can you read the transmission control > unit error codes without a service tool. At least on older models you > just watch the flashing lamp on the TCU itself. If so, what error code > is flashing now? Still an eight as before? According to the Service Manual, reading the code requires a special tool to read the code which I don't have. I'm assuming though that it would be the same code again as all the symptoms were the same. That also means that they made me pay for the solenoid needlessly and the problem may be somewhere else. > The TCU itself may be failing or it could be a problem in the wiring. > A short to battery voltage, an open circuit, a low resistance to [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > conclusion that the solenoid must be changed. As Tom and Ray will tell > you, he had a boat payment due. I think you might be right here though I doubt the technician gets some extra pay from the dealer employer for this. It's more likely that he just chose the easy way out while at the same time pleasing his boss for the extra billing he generated. Though some of you guys have been singing the praises of authorized Honda service shops, I've had nothing but expensive disappointments with them. I think I should have gone to my independent mechanic as before, but because he could not take on my car right away, I though I would give another try to a Honda service shop. What an expensive mistake that was! It reminds me the case of a former co-worker of mine with a Honda Odyssey problem. The power door motor started behaving erratically and the Honda shop diagnosed it as needing a new servo motor. That costed him some $500 and for a while the problems disappeared. Then the same problem came back even with the new servo. He took it back to the same shop where another mechanic found the problem being some loose ground or something like that. When my colleague remarked that perhaps that was the problem before the motor was replaced, they just shrugged their shoulder by saying that "not necessarily." I have a feeling that's the treatment I would get if I took back my car to them now. I hope my car will be OK till my upcoming scheduled maintenance with my independent mechanic and then let him do his own checking. DB > Well, as I wrote before, when in city with speed limits 35 or under, I > like to drive with the AT gear in D3 position but in this case all I > got was the torque converter acting like a slipping MT clutch. It was > obviously not engaging the 1st gear. Same in D4 position. I was able > to start almost normally with the shift lever in D2 position. It sounds as though the transmission is getting erroneous signals from the computer. That could be a problem in the wiring or, less likely, the computer itself. I would pull the connectors off at the TCU and, using an ohmmeter, check the wiring. The troubleshooting procedure is in the service manual. Concentrate on measuring the solenoid resistance. You'll probably see high resistance readings where you would expect to see the low resistance reading of each solenoid. Then you disconnect the solenoid connector at the transmission and take another set of readings. If those resistances are correct, the problem is in the wiring between the solenoid connector and the computer. If not, one or more solenoids are defective. There are probably four solenoids to check, two shift control and two lockup. If you still have the old solenoids, measure their resistance. If they are okay the resistance will be in the range of 12 to 24 ohms. If they measure several hundred ohms or higher, they were truly bad. I went so far as to connect LEDs to the solenoid lines of my TCU to verify that the correct signals were coming out of the computer while I drove. You might even invest in the tool to read the diagnostic codes. SignatureChuck > It sounds as though the transmission is getting erroneous signals from > the computer. That could be a problem in the wiring or, less likely, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > more solenoids are defective. There are probably four solenoids to > check, two shift control and two lockup. I don't see how this could yield any results with a transient problem as this seems to be. Right now all is well and who knows when the problem manifests itself again. That would be the time to carry out the thing you suggest but I may not be in a situation when I could do it. > If you still have the old solenoids, measure their resistance. If they > are okay the resistance will be in the range of 12 to 24 ohms. If they > measure several hundred ohms or higher, they were truly bad. This I can do now and will report back on it later. > I went so far as to connect LEDs to the solenoid lines of my TCU to > verify that the correct signals were coming out of the computer while > I drove. Great idea. > You might even invest in the tool to read the diagnostic codes. Well, I don't think I will keep this car long enough to make it worthwhile. It just occurred to me: what if the problem is in the lock-up control solenoid instead? Just what is the function of the lock-up control solenoid? DB > I don't see how this could yield any results with a transient problem > as this seems to be. The condition may not be transient even while the indication _is_ transient. You may be on either side of the threshold of a failure indication. I had the same intermittent indications when my lockup solenoids were going bad. They got worse with heat but the resistance readings of the failing coils was always high. When they got hot the current draw changed enough for the TCU to register a problem. Last week my TCU was flashing a #8 code. I previously found a bad connection at the TCU. At that time I opted not to dismantle the connector and risk breaking a wire. I simply reseated the pin in the connector. The problem disappeared. When it reappeared last week I pulled back the carpet, grabbed the cable bundle and moved it around a bit. The flashing indicator on the dash didn't reappear so I pulled the fuse to reset the TCU lamp and went whistling past the graveyard. I diagnosed the problem with an ohmmeter even though the dash indicator wasn't always flashing. Bad lockup solenoids or associated wiring lead to funky shifts and rpm flares. SignatureChuck > The condition may not be transient even while the indication _is_ > transient. You may be on either side of the threshold of a failure > indication. I had the same intermittent indications when my lockup > solenoids were going bad. They got worse with heat but the resistance > readings of the failing coils was always high. When they got hot the > current draw changed enough for the TCU to register a problem. OK, I measured the resistance between the connectors of the old solenoid: it was 30 ohms. I guess it's a bit too high, right? > Last week my TCU was flashing a #8 code. I previously found a bad > connection at the TCU. At that time I opted not to dismantle the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I diagnosed the problem with an ohmmeter even though the dash > indicator wasn't always flashing. Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I could do though I am a bit hesitant to screw around with the TCU. > Bad lockup solenoids or associated wiring lead to funky shifts and rpm > flares. Good to know. At least when I experience those symptoms I will know where to start looking. Thanks again, Dan > OK, I measured the resistance between the connectors of the old > solenoid: it was 30 ohms. I guess it's a bit too high, right? No, that's probably within limits. Apparently they replaced a good solenoid assembly. Sorry. What is the accuracy of your ohmmeter? The range of acceptable values for my old '88 Prelude transmission is 12 to 24 ohms. When my solenoid went bad both coils measured about 900 ohms. Does your Accord service manual give the tolerance? (It may be buried in the troubleshooting chart.) At the low end of the range, your ohmmeter may be off. I wouldn't worry about 30 ohms. I _would_ be concerned if it was 300 ohms. The next question is, what are the resistance readings of the solenoids in the vehicle? The TCUs are solid. They have a lot of protection circuitry and they have to withstand some wild temperature swings. The circuit board components are encapsulated. You'll have a hard time killing it. The external wiring is the weak link in the system. SignatureChuck > No, that's probably within limits. Apparently they replaced a good > solenoid > assembly. Sorry. What is the accuracy of your ohmmeter? I haven't calibrated it. I need to find a resistor with known value and see. > The range of > acceptable values for my old '88 Prelude transmission is 12 to 24 > ohms. When > my solenoid went bad both coils measured about 900 ohms. Does your > Accord service manual give the tolerance? (It may be buried in the > troubleshooting chart.) It is also 12-24 ohms. > At the low end of the range, your ohmmeter may be off. I wouldn't > worry about 30 ohms. I _would_ be concerned if it was 300 ohms. It's an old digital Micronta multi-meter I have mostly been using for voltage measurement and for continuity checking. The Ohm meter part's scale seems to be designed to measure kilo Ohms, so on the low end it might not be very accurate. > The next question is, what are the resistance readings of the > solenoids in the vehicle? That's kinda' hard to get to without lifting up the vehicle. So I don't know if I can do that. The lock-up control solenoid would be a lot easier as it is closer to the top. > The TCUs are solid. They have a lot of protection circuitry and they > have to withstand some wild temperature swings. The circuit board > components are encapsulated. You'll have a hard time killing it. The > external wiring is the weak link in the system. That's sounds right though according to the troubleshooting charts a faulty A/T gear position switch might also cause similar symptoms. I guess this will have to be a process of elimination. Unfortunately, due to the transient nature of the symptom, after every fix attempt I may have to wait for weeks to know if the fix worked. DB >> The next question is, what are the resistance readings of the >> solenoids in the vehicle? > That's kinda' hard to get to without lifting up the vehicle. So I > don't know if I can do that. The lock-up control solenoid would be a > lot easier as it is closer to the top. On my car at least the transmission-side solenoid connectors are only available by opening the hood. You can't get to them from below. The best place to take the readings is at the transmission computer connector. In that way you'll check the wiring from the TCU to the transmission too. If you see a problem there, go for the connectors at the transmission. The troubleshooting charts also direct you to check for the presence of voltage on certain connectors. You can't check that in the engine compartment. Everything is available at the connectors which plug into the TCU. > ...according to the troubleshooting charts... Speaking of that, you'd think that a professional technician would have access to a service manual. Through ignorance or greed he bypassed the testing procedure which would have told him that the solenoids he was about to replace were not defective. That shop owes you several hundred dollars. SignatureChuck > On my car at least the transmission-side solenoid connectors are only > available by opening the hood. You can't get to them from below. You're right. I checked the location of the connector under the hood and it was much higher than the solenoid itself and it is accessible relatively easy. > The best place to take the readings is at the transmission computer > connector. In that way you'll check the wiring from the TCU to the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > that in the engine compartment. Everything is available at the > connectors which plug into the TCU. Yes, but depending on the the code reading there are different troubleshooting procedures and I can't read the code. I was also wondering if I could possibly reset and damage the TCM by not having the right service tools. >> ...according to the troubleshooting charts... > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > solenoids he was about to replace were not defective. That shop owes > you several hundred dollars. I'm sure that I could have gotten a good technician to diagnose the problem as it should have been because I'm sure they have those, too. But then they also have marginal or lazy ones who make shortcuts when they think they can get away with it. I probably got the latter. Each job has some given labor hours allotted and if the mechanic is not good he might not be able to finish it in that time. So they take the shortcuts. DB > Yes, but depending on the the code reading there are different > troubleshooting procedures and I can't read the code. Assume for the time being that it's an eight. As long as you're testing things you can look at all solenoid resistances. Do you have a schematic of the transmission control wiring? Do you have the authentic Honda manual? Are you sure that the TCU itself does not have a lamp on it to show the codes in addition to the service connector. You'll probably have to pull back the carpet under the passenger's feet. If there is a little flap of carpet there fastened with a Velcro strip that's probably for the engine control computer. If the engine computer has a lamp, the TCU probably has one too. If so, pull back the carpet. (You might have to remove a fastener to release it.) If you see a plastic window on the side of the TCU, that's the viewing port for the lamp. Turn the ignition on. It is not necessary to start the engine. Any flashes of red light? > I was also > wondering if I could possibly reset and damage the TCM by not having > the right service tools. They're almost bullet-proof. To reset the computer after an error condition has been corrected, you pull out a fuse for 10 seconds and replace it. It is usually the 10 ampere alternator sense fuse in the engine compartment. On my car it is marked "clock." SignatureChuck > My '94 Accord LX never had a transmission problem before but today, > after a short stop, I had a hard time getting the car rolling. It was as [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > DB ---------------- Poke through these: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#engelectrical 'Curly' > Poke through these: > > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#engelectrical Thanks, I did just that and found a lot of interesting stuff there but nothing directly relating to my specific issue. DB |
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