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Car Forum / Honda Cars / July 2008Honda Odyssey Brake Caliber
I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all set to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the driver side front caliber wiggles. It would seem that there are two bolts into a sleeve, one on top and one on the bottom that slide in and out when the break is depressed. It would appear these have worn out and the caliber wiggles. Can I just replace the blot/sleeve? Thanks > I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all set > to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the driver side [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks ===================== Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com Those are commonly called the 'slider pins' and you'll have to get the parts from a Honda dealer, or online if you can wait. How old / what mileage is your Odyssey? More info at Odyclub.com too. 'Curly' >> I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all >> set to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > 'Curly' ------------------------ PS: You know you'll need a handheld torque driver to get the Phillips head screws out of the rotors, right? Cheap at the Hwun HungLow tool supplier / Sears. 'Curly' >>> I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was >>> all set to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > PS: You know you'll need a handheld torque driver to get the Phillips size #3. very important! > head screws out of the rotors, right? Cheap at the Hwun HungLow tool > supplier / Sears. > > 'Curly' > I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all set > to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the driver side [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks a little bit of "wiggle" in normal in a sliding caliper. the shimmy is because the wheel is not seated right [use a little antiseize] and not torqued right [use a torque wrench in a two or more stage tightening sequence]. google this group for details. Caliper wiggles? Before you push the pistons back? Then I suspect the pistons may be seized and therefore not pressing pads against the rotor. You said the calipers wiggle so the anchor pins may be fine unless there is noticeable side-way play. How many miles on these, it may be time to rebuild the calipers or get rebuilts. Also, improper wheel lug torque is a primary reason for warped rotors on Hondas. Sears runs a special on their torque wrenches. Now it's $59.99 great deal. Or your local Harbor Freight $14 1/2" torque wrench would work too. The following is for RV, but would give you the idea on torquing lug nuts: www.keystonerv.com/media/pdf/Lug_Nut_Torque.pdf > I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all set > to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the driver side [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks > Caliper wiggles? Before you push the pistons back? Then I suspect the > pistons may be seized and therefore not pressing pads against the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Also, improper wheel lug torque is a primary reason for warped rotors > on Hondas. indeed. and most of the time, they're not permanently warped either. cleanup of the hub/disk/wheel interfaces and a little antiseize usually takes care of it, even though most shops will skim/replace the disks. i have successfully "repaired" a number of instances in this way on my hondas, most recently last weekend after visiting the tire shop. air tools are a terrible thing on a honda wheel. > Sears runs a special on their torque wrenches. Now it's > $59.99 great deal. Or your local Harbor Freight $14 1/2" torque wrench [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >> >> Thanks All, Thank you for the feedback you provided. The van has 170,000 miles on it. Only the driver side caliber wiggles. I will replace the sliders, as I can see the wiggle at that point. Then I will look to see if there is any stickiness in the caliber, and lastly torque the lug nuts back on. Hopefully I will see some improvement. Thanks, >I have a shimmy in the wheel when pressing on the brake. So I was all set >to change the front brakes and rotors, but then realized the driver side [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks > All, > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >> >> Thanks as johngdole rightly points out, if one caliPer is loose, and the other ok, the stuck one could be a stuck piston. you need to check both calipers. and it's caliPer, not caliber. the caliber is a p.o.s. dodge. |
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